My driver's door sagged just a little, as the bushings had worn out and separated. I didn't want to unbolt the hinges from the frame/door, so after reading many similar posts, here's how I performed this task. I got a new pin and bushing kit from an online vendor.

1. Lower the window, disconnect the battery (the door will be open for a while), remove the door panel.
2. Place a couple layers of blue masking tape on the leading front edge of the door, and the rear edge of the fender, as this will help prevent the paint chipping at a later step.
3. Fully open the door and support the door on a wheeled dolly. I used some pieces of 4x4 and 2x4 with a towel on top of a man dolly.


4. If you have power windows, you'll need to remove the door's lower access panel and disconnect the power window wires to its motor. Then loosen the door side grommet and rubber conduit to give you the slack necessary to pull the hinges apart later.
5. Have a helper steady the door. This was very helpful!
6. Remove the pins by tapping up from the bottom with a punch and hammer. On the upper hinge, I was only able to move the pin half way up due to the door fiberglass and fender fiberglass interference. On the lower hinge, I was only able to move the pin half way up due to the limited angle of the punch. Use a Dremmel type tool with a small cutting wheel and cut the hinge pins off flush with the top of the hinge. Be careful! A wild Dremmel can damage stuff. After cutting, punch the remaining portion of the pin back down into the hinge to remove it.
7. Slide the door to separate the hinges about an inch. Due to the rivet head interference on the upper latch spring mechanism rollers, I had to use a pry bar to separate the upper hinge. If the door wobbles during this step, you'll be glad you put the masking tape on the edges.
8. Remove/replace the bushings (they sit in between the hinges). The bushings fit into the inner hinge, the upper from the top, the lower from the bottom.
9. Slide the door back and insert the new pins. The lower pin installed normally (from the top), but due to the door and fender interference, I fed the upper hinge pin in from the bottom. Hammer them in tight.
10. On the upper pin, I drilled a small hole at the upper edge of the bottom bushing, and inserted a hair clip pin retainer (see picture).



11. Reconnect the power window wires, and grommet/conduit, and door panel.
12. Lastly, you may want to check the alignment of the Door Guide Pin Receiver as necessary, especially if your door sagged a lot.

cheers,

 

Kenko
I replaced the bushings on my 77 but had to install them with door hinge
holding them in place............flange side of bushing,down on top,up on bottom.....
I believe if the top bushing were installed from the top it will work it's way out....at least that is what happened to me...

Good Luck

 

All,
I edited my post after a successful door hinge pin and bushing replacement. One of the few tasks that took less than an hour

 

you can and should grind the head of the top hinge pin,
on any side grind it flat until nearly flush with the pin Diameter.
It will resemble a "D" shape, now you can install the pin in from the top,
and also remove it if needed. (use the flat notch to avoid door interferance)
69VETT

 

I read that from other posts and had planned to simply grind the upper hinge pin's head to a "D" shape, but the way my door was shimmed, there was absolutely no way a little head grinding was going to allow that pin to be removed past the fender and door fiberglass. Even if I cut the pin's head completely off, the pin wouldn't have slid up and out. My only choice was to cut the old pin and come in from the bottom with the new one, with the new pin's full head intact.