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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Well, generally adjustable bias is to reduce the tendency of the rear to lock up, not the front. I think you should put your energy towards getting the rear to bite better, rather than trying to reduce the front. I would check to see if your rear soft lines are swelled shut, or perhaps investigate a higher c/f rear pad.
JMO
The small in comparison 245 with 25.7 diameter makes your front brake rotor more effective. Then your rears are 26.7 inches in diameter with lots more tread on the ground.
I run 275 kumho ecsta mx front tires on 10 inch rims with 4 inch BS. If your front rims are at least 9 inch I think they could be fitted. My fronts touch the sway and frame on extreme lock to lock. So I just never over steer to far.
Another option is to use a higher friction rear pad and lower in the front.
I have single front tire lock if I am coming into a turn and turn a little bit. It's not a big deal, I just let of a little on the brake petal. I just see a puff of blue smoke coming out of the offending fender
Gkull I get rubbing on lock with my 245's, so upping the width isnt an option, Higher friction pads would be or maybe better rear calipers
might be an other?
Brake bias can be adjusted with a proportioning valve like the J-56 brake package of the 67-68 (but NOT 69) L-88 Vette had, brake pad material or Caliper piston diameter. You may want to try some agressive rear pads like an EBC "yellow" at the back with the EBC "red" on front and then adjust bias with proportioning valve to get even braking. BE CAREFUL when playing with bias as spin-outs can easilly happen in testing, make sure you are expiriementing in the proper "open space" (away from all your UK photo speed cameras )
Thanks Solid, thats useful, the problem I have at the moment is the likelyhood of 'spinning out' with the fronts locking up since they come on so hard, hence the reason for the original question about bias adjustment. I could take the braided lines off the front to give it a more gentle take up but that would seem to be going backwards.
I should also mention that I have hydroboost and Sports rotors from VB&P.
Are you sure the rear brakes are properly bled because I only have expirienced front lock-up in racing situtations with EXTREEM application of brake and even though the fronts are weighted, they will lock-up. If you are getting front lock-up in normal driving, I would re-bleed your rear brakes, you need the Master Cylinder cover off, and start gravity bleeding at right rear outside bleeder, inside the left rear outside/inside. The brake fluid should come out of the bleeder in a steady streem with no air (I use clear Ploy tubing to observe the fluid streem, and sometimes you need to lightly push brake pedal about 4-6mm to unseat MC piston.) Brake fluid type can effect bleeding, I won't use DOT 5 Silicone based fluids in my Vettes, Castrol LMA is a good "street" fluid while in the USA Ford factory brake fluid is some of the best for tracked Vettes (something to do with some obscure Lola based Ford race car that went down the Mulsanne straightaway at 230MPH in the 60's made Ford engineer good OEM brake fluid.) Make SURE you rear brakes are properly functioning. I also take the Vette for a drive and quickly bleed the brakes while the fluid is hot after working on hydraulic system of any C2/3 Vette.
Thats a good point Solid. I will give them a bleed over the weekend and see. I am using DOT4, no silicone. I have heard about the Ford US fluid, but I dont think its available here, there are other DOT4 high performance fluids available though, Castrol do one thats highly recommended. And I will give it a drive first to warm it up.
I appreciate your input, thanks.
Graeme
PS I think you mean the Lola Ford Mk 6 GT
This car led Ford directly to develop the GT 40.
Last edited by Graemeinvette; May 28, 2009 at 03:14 PM.
Reason: adding info
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by Graemeinvette
Thanks Solid, thats useful, the problem I have at the moment is the likelyhood of 'spinning out' with the fronts locking up since they come on so hard, hence the reason for the original question about bias adjustment. I could take the braided lines off the front to give it a more gentle take up but that would seem to be going backwards.
I should also mention that I have hydroboost and Sports rotors from VB&P.
If you add an adjuster, be very careful when cranking bias towards the rear, as front lockup is more preferable than is rear. On the plus side, this will allow you to dial in just how much help with rotating the car into turns trail-braking can lend, but you'll be walking a fine line, so experiment at your own risk, and not to that of others (leave more margin on the street).
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; May 28, 2009 at 05:01 PM.
The fronts locking up first is very suspect.
I don't think you are getting good rear brakes.
The vette is rear biased from the factory, how did yours change? Are you running stock brakes?
I do not like your brakes doing that. It is unnatural.
Keith
Thanks guys especially Solid, I bled the rear brakes today and found some air, the road test after showed a big improvement! One thing though, I notice I have a bleed nipple on the inner and outer caliper, should I bleed both?