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Hey guys,
I just discovered that the new temp sender I installed is not working properly with my stock gauge, it's showing much higher numbers than the reality, and it was working perfectly before.
I'm not sure exactly how they work but I can get a baseline with the IR gun or the electric fan swich which turns on at 200* and measure the resistence? or the voltage? of this new sender and try to add a in line resistor to bring it to what the gauge expects.
Does any of you guys went throught this before and have any tips? Or at least and idea of what the resistence or voltage should be? I can put a potentiometer there to figure it out but need to have a ball park idea of what it should be.
I got this sender from a local Schucks store and it should be stock replacement.
Adding inline resistance will only make the dash unit accurate at one temperature only. The dash unit is not linear and this will make the rest of the readings off.
Why did you change to the new sensor if the other one worked good ? Was this done to fix a problem with the gauge and maybe the problem was not the sensor ? Just a thought.
Adding inline resistance will only make the dash unit accurate at one temperature only. The dash unit is not linear and this will make the rest of the readings off.
Willcox
Makes sense.
Originally Posted by DWncchs
Why did you change to the new sensor if the other one worked good ? Was this done to fix a problem with the gauge and maybe the problem was not the sensor ? Just a thought.
The old one was so chewed up I had to use pliers to get it out of the old head and I didn't wanted to put that uggly looking thing on the brand new aluminum heads I just got.
So my only way out is paying $30 to ecklers to get the correct one?
Can you tell me, on your 75 what the ohms output is on the sender when the fans kick in at 200?
Also, any other ohms output you can get for me on the sender you have in the car.
IE: If you have a 180 thermostat, what is the output when it opens. I think I can help you but I need more info. Also, take a reading with the car cold and tell me what the temperature is on the neck.
I have all the test equipment at home today and tomorrow so if you can post back tomorrow night I'll try to see if what I have is right.
Can you tell me, on your 75 what the ohms output is on the sender when the fans kick in at 200?
Also, any other ohms output you can get for me on the sender you have in the car.
IE: If you have a 180 thermostat, what is the output when it opens. I think I can help you but I need more info. Also, take a reading with the car cold and tell me what the temperature is on the neck.
I have all the test equipment at home today and tomorrow so if you can post back tomorrow night I'll try to see if what I have is right.
Willcox Inc.
Hey Willcox,
It was way out, at 200* the gauge would be way close to 280*.
I got a 1k 15-turn potentiometer and measured the gauge:
100* = 294 ohms
150* = 128 ohms
200* = 83 ohms
280* = 40 ohms looking on the data available around I realized that no sender would match my gauge precisely so I put the potentiometer in line and calibrated the gauge to 200* which is the only temp that matters to me. 30 ohms was the magic number, got some resistors on radioshack and I'm a happy camper now.
I can definetelly see the temp go up to 180ish when the tstat opens up, and sits there until I stop at the light when it goes to 200 then the fan goes on and stays there, once I get moving again even as slow as 30mph it comes back to 180ish. And we are having record high temperatures here at Seattle this week.
If I ever see it going higher than 200 I know I have a problem and that's all I need to know.
... and calibrated the gauge to 200* which is the only temp that matters to me. 30 ohms was the magic number, got some resistors on radioshack and I'm a happy camper now.
<snip>
If I ever see it going higher than 200 I know I have a problem and that's all I need to know.
<snip>
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Did the same thing for the same reason. I have a 195 thermostat and 15 ohms was my magic number to align the ir reading on the t-stat housing and the gauge at 200 degrees.