I just got my new carpet in from Wilcox. Is there anything that I need to put under the carpet to hold it down, like spray adhesive, double sided tape, etc...?

 

You might want to consider installing a full sound/heat insulation kit under the carpet first. I know my legs get pretty hot in the summer time. I'll be doing my carpet soon, and for sure, I'm going to insulate underneath.

 

I have already installed insulation (which I used spray on adhesive) but I wasn't sure about the carpet.

 

You only need to put adhesive under the carpeted areas where the surface 'goes vertical': bulkhead behind the seats, for sure; rear surface of the storage compartment and up front on the firewall, if you don't reinstall rubber retaining plugs. The seats will hold the carpet to the floorboard. Other than that, you're good to go!

P.S. To find all those bolt holes, screw holes and retaining strap spacer holes a little easier, get a L-A-R-G-E needle [like for leather stitching] and poke it through the carpet in the area of the hole until it slips right through. That's a lot easier and less damaging than other methods.

 

After you located all the holes for the seat tracks and belts use a hot soldering iron to burn the holes thru the carpet. It will make nice round holes and looks very professional.

 

Here is a neat little trick we do in our shop and I’m not sure if I’ve posted this or not!

We do this on a lift, so you might want to consider putting the car up in the air a little bit.

When you have all the carpet out of the car and before you ever put anything down on the floor board! Go find you the brightest light possible and put it in the car! Then cover the car with a car cover and turn off the shop lights. Find and seal any hole you see and you will see some! This trick will usually show a cracked shifter boot, floor pan plugs missing, firewall grommets missing and so on!

Now we do sell al the fangled heat barriers. . . But a low budget barrier that can be purchased from Home Depot or Lows is the self adhesive material called AC duct insulation. This stuff is about 1/16” thick and works pretty good! I personally have this stuff in my 62, but on most C3 cars I will run the thermo blanket over anything! The C3 cars generate way too much heat and you really need to do what ever possible to stop it.

Fast tack trim adhesive works great for gluing the carpet down where needed and you want to treat it just like you would rubber cement. Spray it on the part, spray it on the carpet and allow both to dry. . . Then spray it on the carpet set again and you had better know where you want it, it will stick.

I try to stay way from the fluffy heat barriers, they always tend to squash down after you install them and personally prefer the mass backed deadener. Combine this with your heat barrier of choice and you should be good to do!

Make sure you also have the shift console tunnel insulator, and the bell housing to firewall seal in place. Both keep heat out of the car and are needed! The foam collar between the bellhousing and the firewall is to me a must! My thought on this is to stop the hot air before it can get to the U/B tunnel.

When trying to locate the holes we use a sharp awe. We just go from the underside of the car and poke it up thru the floor board.

IMHO,

Willcox Inc.

 

Very true! Many people waste glue under the seats and on the floor areas which will never move once the car is back together. . . Good catch 71, I should have read your post before I posted.

Willcox Inc.