Top end rebuild.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
Top end rebuild.
Saturday, I'm going to start my top end rebuild. 
Couple of questions:
1: do i have to soak the lifters in oil overnight before install? Oil them at all? there new Lunatis.
2: do i use any sealant on the intake manifold gaskets, or install dry?
3: what breakin oil to use on start-up, and how long do i run it?
Couple of questions:
1: do i have to soak the lifters in oil overnight before install? Oil them at all? there new Lunatis.
2: do i use any sealant on the intake manifold gaskets, or install dry?
3: what breakin oil to use on start-up, and how long do i run it?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I have for a long time been disassembling brand new lifters and cleaning them. I have been burnt too many times with just one of them ticking. I almost always find at least 1 speck of metal that could end up creating an issue. Quality control "aint" what is used to be.
( i also dissemble new oil pumps and bring them into spec)
On the intakes I run a small bead around the coolant holes and trail it down to and across the valley to the other side.(i dont use the rubber)
( i also dissemble new oil pumps and bring them into spec)
On the intakes I run a small bead around the coolant holes and trail it down to and across the valley to the other side.(i dont use the rubber)
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,309
Likes: 24
From: Coastal Georgia
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
I soaked my lifters for a while before installing them, and it worked out fine. I also put a small bead of sealant around the water jacket ports.
The break-in oil debate is a big one. I used Rotella-T oil, but even that does not have the same zinc composition that it used to. Rotella worked fine for me...no wiped cam lobes, etc. Make sure you research how top vary your engine RPM while breaking in the cam. I changed my oil immediately after break in.
The break-in oil debate is a big one. I used Rotella-T oil, but even that does not have the same zinc composition that it used to. Rotella worked fine for me...no wiped cam lobes, etc. Make sure you research how top vary your engine RPM while breaking in the cam. I changed my oil immediately after break in.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Most importantly, preoil to ensure everything's working on the top end 
I soak the lifters in a 50/50 mix of 30wt dino oil and GM EOS. Note that high-pressure lube is still needed on the heel. I've personally never had a problem with a brand-name lifter right out of the box.
RTV around the cooling passages only - otherwise, no sealant. Edelbrock Gasgacinch can make it easier to hold the gasket in place - but it's basically just pricy contact cement
I use a standard GF-4 oil and add 2 pints of GM EOS - but a non-GF-4 oil (1800+ PPM ZDDP)or a break-in additive (CompCams, etc.) is important.
I change the oil and filter after cam break-in, at 500, 1000 and 3000 - then every 3000 miles. If you can, cut apart the break-in filter to catch any issues early.
I soak the lifters in a 50/50 mix of 30wt dino oil and GM EOS. Note that high-pressure lube is still needed on the heel. I've personally never had a problem with a brand-name lifter right out of the box.
RTV around the cooling passages only - otherwise, no sealant. Edelbrock Gasgacinch can make it easier to hold the gasket in place - but it's basically just pricy contact cement
I use a standard GF-4 oil and add 2 pints of GM EOS - but a non-GF-4 oil (1800+ PPM ZDDP)or a break-in additive (CompCams, etc.) is important.
I change the oil and filter after cam break-in, at 500, 1000 and 3000 - then every 3000 miles. If you can, cut apart the break-in filter to catch any issues early.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 354
Likes: 6
From: Winston Salem NC
Read what the manufacturer recommends on the lifters, it varies. Be sure and use the prelube on contact surfaces.
sealant around water passages.
I broke in with Rotella, again do what the cam manufacturer recommends for break in, for time and rpms.
sealant around water passages.
I broke in with Rotella, again do what the cam manufacturer recommends for break in, for time and rpms.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
I soaked my lifters for a while before installing them, and it worked out fine. I also put a small bead of sealant around the water jacket ports.
The break-in oil debate is a big one. I used Rotella-T oil, but even that does not have the same zinc composition that it used to. Rotella worked fine for me...no wiped cam lobes, etc. Make sure you research how top vary your engine RPM while breaking in the cam. I changed my oil immediately after break in.
The break-in oil debate is a big one. I used Rotella-T oil, but even that does not have the same zinc composition that it used to. Rotella worked fine for me...no wiped cam lobes, etc. Make sure you research how top vary your engine RPM while breaking in the cam. I changed my oil immediately after break in.
I'm checking my parts and my ba@@s, making sure everything is there.
pics to follow in the next couple of days.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,309
Likes: 24
From: Coastal Georgia
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
Hey Quil,, i went with your advice, except for the heads, as i wanted aluminum for the weight savings. Got a set of the new Edelbrock E-Streets with 64 cc chambers, VettesbyDesign sources them at a really good price. Useing a .028 compressed thickness head gasket and a Lunati 256 cam, and some shorty headers. After torque at mid range. Cant wait!!!
I'm checking my parts and my ba@@s, making sure everything is there. pics to follow in the next couple of days.
I'm checking my parts and my ba@@s, making sure everything is there.
pics to follow in the next couple of days. Very nice. Aluminum is a great way to go if you can swing it. You'll certainly have room to grow if you want to go with a larger cam down the road. I am definitely going to step up mine eventually, but I have been very pleased with the Lunati 262/268 grind so far. What intake did you end up with? And carb?
Are you running the shorties to a stock exhaust, or true duals? Sorry, I'm sure you mentioned it before...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
Very nice. Aluminum is a great way to go if you can swing it. You'll certainly have room to grow if you want to go with a larger cam down the road. I am definitely going to step up mine eventually, but I have been very pleased with the Lunati 262/268 grind so far. What intake did you end up with? And carb?
Are you running the shorties to a stock exhaust, or true duals? Sorry, I'm sure you mentioned it before...
Are you running the shorties to a stock exhaust, or true duals? Sorry, I'm sure you mentioned it before...
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,309
Likes: 24
From: Coastal Georgia
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
Should be a great improvement for you. Be ready to deal with the water temperature sensor...I relocated mine to the intake manifold, just below the coolant hose. I'm not sure about the Edelbrocks, but on my Fast Burns the stock temp sensor would not fit in the head...if yours are the same, you'll either have to relocate or use an adapter.
