I have put up with the 1978-82 armrest problem long enough. Those who are familiar with it know that there are two problems: 1) the nose cracks, for which there is a repair kit shown below, 2) the self-tapping screw at the nose pulls out of the metal door frame behind the panel. OK here is the plan. I have new armrests and the repair kits as shown below. That metal sleeve will protect the armrest nose.

The holes in the metal door frames are much too large now for the repair kit self-tapping screws; I played Bubba and used larger screws. And they still keep pulling out. Can a nut be welded or JB-welded (I do not have a welding machine) to the area behind the door panel where the metal frame hole is located and then matching machine screws be used to fasten the noses? Rather than self-tapping screws. This would seem to be a more secure set-up. I would appreciate your comments on this. Thanks. I am getting tired of telling the Wife not to touch the armrest when closing the door.






[Modified by paul79, 5:29 PM 2/9/2002]

 

I think your idea of having a nut on the inside of the door panel sounds good. Two thoughts; would the nut have to be installed on an angle? Can't remember offhand, but does the screw go into the door panel on an angle? Too bad GM didn' consider this where the doors are so heavy.
What about a larger tapping screw, like a #12 or 14. If the shank fits the door handle, maybe possible to grind the outside of the head enough for it to recess into the handle.

 

I have gone very large on the self-tapping screws. That is the problem. The holes are too large. Yes the screw does go in on an angle. I don't remember but I believe the metal surface is on an angle also. I have not had those panels off for a couple of years. Perhaps someone can advise. In any case, I am sure a good welder could get the nut on in a correct position.

 

I would remove the door panel, then take it to a place that has a mig welder to weld up the hole. Then redrill for a self tapping screw or maybe even tap for a threaded screw.

I would not JB weld a nut to the back and it might be too difficult to weld a nut. Also, consider what would happen it the nut came lose and turned. You may not be able to get the arm rest or door panel off without ruining the arm rest.

Also, how is the weather up there? I used to a lot of work with Bell Mobility and Clearnet (now Telus Mobility).

Dave

 

Dave,
Thanks for the suggestion. Now 10F and five inches of snow predicted for tomorrow. Coming to you from the Bell Canada high-speed Sympatico network. Works very well. I dumped Rogers@Home recently because of the Excite@Home mess and Rogers non-performance.

Paul

 

Welding a thicker piece of metal over the hole is a good idea. While you're at it, you might want to weld some reinforcements at some of the window regulator mounting screws, as the metal tends to crack there too. The doors were NOT the best designed and constructed parts of the C-3 Corvette's body!

 

has anyone else noticed that wife or females get a kick out of slaming car doors with more force than is needed?

 

You could do as jsimpson said except use screws to hold the plate.
You could just bend a solid wire into a U & drop it into the hole & put the armrest on. Don't expect you to like that one much but it will work.

 

Paul you can always use a speed nut. Flat clip that staddles each side of the hole yet is tapered to allow screw to really bite. GM makes all sizes. They have used them for lighter applications for years.(around dash) But they do make larger versions.
2 nd suggestion is the welnut that they use to secure mirrors or luggage racks they come in all sizes also. When those get tightened they hold.

 

Ganey,
I tried that one and it does not work for any length of time. But thanks.

 

Well, I would imagine that it would be nice to blame the Wife but anyone of any sex can yank that screw out with moderate force.

 

Paso,
I thought of a JB-welded speed nut. I have an assortment in the basement. The problem I have just at the moment is that I cannot remember the configuration of that hole. And my car is stored away until April. I do not know how to get a speed nut onto that frame. Must be someone who is replacing door panels and can take a pic?

 

Yes I have thought of that. Makes me a little nervous because of a lot of new $$$$ paint on the outer door skin. Can the welding heat be localized? I really do not know anything re welding.

 

I'll drink to this one. :cheers: Some day I expect to see the door glass to break.

 

I am convinced that it's a female thing for most ladies to slam doors.......why they most do it is beyond normal comprehension........it has hinges just slam it is the thought around our house and cars by both wife and daughter.......and it seems that normal logic and sense plays no part in their lives :smash: :smash:

 

Paul:
Don't go anywhere. Bob went to the garage to get the number of a screw something that will fix the door or your money back from Kraft.

He too has been fighting with the drivers side. Big screws etc. Problem with the larger screws the heads will not fit in the hole then you would have to put Duck tape over the dhead to hide it. Where is he. :sleep: The garage is not that far from the house. :confused:

Ok, here we go. He is in the house and the answer is.....

The size of the screw stays the same what you need to get is a M6-1.0, foldover. Made by Body - Tite !

If you have the door panel apart you will see there is a bracket that comes out of the body frame of the door where the screw hole is. This will simply slide on that bracket. Line up the hole with the fold over and then when you put the door panel back on, use the original screw and it should line up. No JB weld needed. Once the door panel is back on use a metal punch to line up the door handel hole with the fold over hole. Then screw it back on. ou are good to go. We have tried larger screws, string you name it we tried it. You can find this part at Pep Boys or Auto Zone. It is in a green package over by the old body screws and nuts & bolts & piecesparts.

It was to the point on ours I (joyce wife) would zap the window down and close the door and then zip the window back up.

This will work. !

Be prepared to dish out a whole $1.50 for the repair. Yes one dollar and fifty cents. They should be this easy on the wallet.

Good luck.
:cheers:

 

Paul:
Did not realize you were in Canada. If you cannot locate the part there let me know and I will be more than happy to go to the auto parts store and pick one up for you and chunk it in the mail. It might take a week to get there but at least you will have it. I might just get you 2. At colder than cold and snow on the ground cannot imagine the car is going anywhere this month ?

Let me know more than happy to do this for a fellow vetter.

(joyce, mrs. mr. bob) :D


[Modified by Mr. Bob, 4:31 PM 2/10/2002]

 

Thanks Bob for taking the time. And for the kind offer! We do not have Pep Boys or Autozone here but there are places like UAP that should have the part. Is this the type of fastener you are speaking of? I know them as speednuts. Is there a screw size after the M6-1.0? I was thinking of this solution but I cannot get access to my 1979 until April to have a peek inside the door to see what that solution is. If it works for you, I will pick up a package. Just need the size of the screw opening. If it is not a speednut I will take you up on your offer. Thanks again.

 

Paul:
Yes it is a speed nut. I think the screw opening is the M-6. The stock number is 45411. The company name is Motormite. Hope this helps.
Just use the oroginal screw or the arm rest repair kit screw is also the same size.

Happy to help. Let me know if you still might needs parts.

Good luck and let me know if it works. :seeya

 

Paul:

Just took a good look at the picture in the e mail. The one in the pix is too small. You need a 1inch. I do not know what size it is in metric. Sorry.

I believe the M6-1.0 is for 1". We will get a digi cam one of these days so we can take a pix and send it off to ya.

Bob