I think my plus are a bit dry and dark.. and It has that "rich scent."
I understand that I'm not a pro and I don't have the means to test or have air-fuel levels checked...
I think that my 750 may need a bit of leaning.
I think the stock jet are "70" for the Holley 0-80508S.
What size would be a good moce for me?
I have a 383 with a blue racer 350/350 cam and 100% standard vortec heads (with better springs and ss valves).
timing is set at 11* base and I don’t have a light to check but I know that my vac. advance is functioning.
(It was when I looked at it in the winter)
If you going to be rude and tell me I'm a shade tree mech. please do not reply. I work in IT and run dozens of servers onver 60 plus vpn and have never been insulting when asked some rather basic computer and network questions.
I prefer people respond that have that type demeanor.

 

Man, I just read that post and I sound like a jerk...
I guess that sometines I see people being torn up on here for not having a digital fuel management system and tuning their cars wrong..
I plan to drive this car for a whole day to take off with my wife for our 4th anniversary.. I just don't want to hear her complain about "that gasy smell" hehehe
thanks
timg

 

Reading plugs is dicey business. If you could post a photo of the plug(s) we could give opinions.

How does she run?

 

It runs good. Idles good and has good powr. seems to run a bit cold. (170*). But I have a new radiator in it.

 

For what it's worth, I run this carb on a zz430 and have changed the rear metering plate to a jet plate and am running 69F and 74R for a couple of years. No problems, no stink.

Daffy2

 

As commented above here some pics of the #1 plug...
the rest look about the same.....
The way they look the car would run like hell...
It start first crank and does not smell THAT bad... Just a loss of power after a radiator change...
It had WAY more pep before I changed the radiator.
That brought the temp down to 165-70 ish.. it was around 200 before.
I'm running a 160 tstat...
Am I running to cold?
I don't recall what the stock jets are but I ordered the following before the carb. install but never used them....
68 jet for primary. (stock is 70?)
new spring set (should I use the lightest as I wes told?)
smaller plate for rear.( plate 21 is stock)


Any idea if temp alone would cause this?
Im just bought a non adjustable timing light...
My timing is at base 11... I can't rev it alone to see where the other stuff happens. bit total was 32-ish when I first tested the engine install.
BTW: where does my advance plug in?
On the front block or the carb base?
I thought it was supposed to be on the base.

My pal (who has a 550 rwhp ford) had me move it to the block.....
Thanks to all of you for you insight and valuable help....
More comments at the last pic....






Another question, in the pic below you can see the dist rotor.. is that part supposed to pivot at the 2 black screw that are on the sides...?
Mine does...

 

Bump for a new day... Wondering If any pro's could tell me if I'm on the right track...
timg

 

It's hard to get a 3310 (which is what you really have) to run well when the main jets go under 68 on the primary. The secondary runs a block equal to around a 76 jet.

First thing I would do is jump two heat ranges hotter on the plug to see if that works. It looks like you are doing a lot of low-speed driving and idling. You'll have to carefully monitor the plugs for signs of detonation with the hotter heat range. If you're still getting the fluffy dark deposits, then look at stepping down the idle fuel channel restrictor. There are plenty of sites on the web that will tell you how to modify this circuit to run leaner. The idle circuiton the 3310 carbs tends to run too fat for engines under 430ci.

 

I'm running the ngk plugs that are specked for a stick 96 vortec pickup truck.. what plugs do I need to ask for? will a axxociate at napa or autozone know what I'm asking for?
thaks
timg

 

I must say that I do drive this thing fairly agressively.. not like I'm racing but I like to smoke the tires and get on it whenever safety permitts..

 

Timgman,

Don't take this as any sort of knock, but the best way to go about this if you have the means is on a dyno. A few hours spent at a dyno shop with someone who knows what he's doing is money very well spent. Versus the many hours and days of trial and error you would spend trying to tune a car on the street. There are so many different engine combinations that trying to find just the right jet combination is extremely time consuming without a dyno or some sort of air/fuel ratio meter. I used to do this the old fashioned way myself, but found dropping the car off at the dyno shop is far more efficient, and I know what kind of power to the ground I have at the end.


Pat Kunz

 

I agree entirely. after I get some free cash I'd like to have it done in this manner..