I am looking up Retro roller cam install information. I am not really that impressed with the use of shims or cam button's pressing against a timing cover that's supposed to keep the cam, roller lifter's ect. in place at 6000 rpm. I also feel that aggressive cam profiles, upgraded springs, special push rods and a $1,000.00 price tag is a little much for the street. A 355 with Afr 180 heads and a Comp Magnum 270h is a great street set up for a 79 Vette. (engine has intake , headers ect.} Everyone wants more hp and I am all for improvements. I think roller cams in late model motors is okay because they are roller cams from the factory. I am not a mechanic. All opinions welcome.

 

With today's engine oils with almost 0 ZDDP and phosphorus, its a logical move to go for a roller cam and lifters.

 

You can find oil that has the correct stuff in it to make a flat tappet live. I am still running a solid flat tappet in mine. I run Valvoline racing oil and it has enough zinc inti to keep it alive. A roller cam will give you more power with the same duration due to the valve being held open longer. Is it worth the 1000 dollar price tag?? That is up to you. Some feel it is worth it others don't. If you are looking for every last bit of power yes it is worth it.

 

I have a pre=85 block and made the same decision. Just use the right oil. Since I only drive 2k year max I'm taking no chances and using RP XPR. Also used RP break in oil. She runs good!

 

My opinion is if you already have a flat tappet and it works fine use the correct oil and run it. If your building a new high performance engine or replacing a cam in a performance motor it makes sense to me to spend the extra $ for a roller. You need to buy a cam, lifters, pushrods and springs ($500+ for decent stuff) anyway so you subtract that cost from the retro roller cost. Then subtract the extra cost for racing oil for the life of the engine. Then add the piece of mind that you don't have a flat tappet cam that could fail and you pick up some extra HP.

 

Years ago when I built my first solid roller cam motor I had a roller button timing cover and I adjusted it for .020 clearance. It never touched the button in it's whole life.

Reason being is I used the best billet crane roller timing chain.

only two things can make a cam move forward. That is the old style magnetos or monster oil pumps. The rear helical cut gears induce forward thrust where the dist and cam gear meet.

If you have a tight strong double roller timing chain it does not happen.

I only use billet steel custom solid roller cams in my my two hot rods.

 

i put crane roller in my vet 2 years ago, bulletproof. put crane hydraulic in my camaro 2 weeks ago, no wiped lobe yet.... but now me thinks should have spent $1000 more and a bit more mucking around and did roller again. once i get 355 gears in the camaro rear in a few weeks i can answer this question more decisively.

cam button = $ 15 and 30 minutes of my time
stronger springs = $ 200 and a left over set of spring good for not much
custom length pushrods = $more dollars then standard
cam and roller lifters = $ 4 times as much
the smile on my face from smooth rapid power= priceless
the look in my wallet after i do all this = empty

 

My next major mod is to switch to a hydraulic roller cam. I plan to buy a LT4 Hot Cam. The price is reasonable, $200, and it comes with a distributor gear drive that will live with my stock HEI gear. Also, a few here and on the C4 run that cam and are happy with it. The expensive part is the conversion lifters, about $400-450. Ouch. The LT4 Hot Cam will have less duration 218I, 228E, than my Summit 1105, but will have much more lift, .540, with my 1.65 roller rockers. My AFR 195s already have strong enough springs, and will love the additional lift. My gas bill will love the reduced duration. I have a post 86 350 block that I will build into a 396 someday, and it is already set up for GM factory roller lifters, but I don't know when I'll get around to building that engine. I can do the LT4 conversion in a weekend. I hope that will get me finally into the 12s. Anyone know of a good conversion lifter deal, please let me know. I saw a new set in the box on ebay recently for $299. I should have jumped on that.
The hard part is that the Summit 1105 cam has been great, and it ain't broke. If it ain't broke, break it.
Bee Jay

 

I checked out some info on the net. Roller cam motors have a retainer plate to hold the cam in place. Retro roller's use a small cam button that presses on the timing cover? This set up looks very "low tech" for 2009. I want to go roller, but at 6000 rpm I would be concerned about what my cam is doing.

 

Cam buttons work just fine no problem ... but if your flat tappet is OK then suggest leave it & enjoy the ride.

 

there is probably 3million motors out there with cam buttons. dont know of one failure yet. it doesnt need to be a hi tech part. the force of cam walk is miniscule and to be honest a retro fit roller would still work without one but you wouldnt risk it. its only intermediate to big horsepower motors that a roller would move enough without one to cause any wear .

 

Because of the way the cam and distributor gears are cut, at 6000 rpm the cam will be pushed into the block.
The button wont need to do much of anything.

 

Take your timing cover off, you probably have a cam button, I use them in every motor, flat tappet or roller, my buddies race shop uses them to in every motor they build, cheap insurance for $2.99

 

There is a set for sale in the C4 section. Half price with very little mileage on them.
You can't use a LT4 hotcam in a non roller block. The nose of that cam is only made to fit a timing chain sprocket that is for a rollerblock. A camshaft timing chain sprocket for a non roller block will not bolt up to a hydraulic roller cam. You must use a "retro" hydraulic roller camshaft in a non roller block. The nose on these camshafts are designed to bolt up to a "non hydraulic roller cam" timing chain sprocket.

 

Thanks Kens80. I just sent a PM and email for them. Chevy Hi-Perfo did an article on installing the LT4 Hot Cam in a non roller block, and Scogins-Dickey sends a pamphlet on how to install the LT4 in a non roller block with their Hot Cam. I know you have to trim the water pump dowel. I'll go look for that article.
Bee Jay

 

engine 1, flat tappat, 800 miles. engine 2, roller tappats, 5,000 miles and still cooking! ..... cost of saving $1000 on the first engine... about $3,000 and a lot of time

Save now, pay big later
Spend a little now, save a lot latter.... and morepower
imho...

 

There's no reason a flat-tappet cam can't live the life of the engine with the right oil. I've got a quite a few out there heading for 60K+ miles.

Many of the modern cams use a near-roller profile to get the valves open faster and keep them open longer....which is a good thing, but also part of the problem with premature cam failure.

If you can afford it, it's a great performance upgrade. If you can't, plenty of power to still be found in a flat-tappet cam.

 

I think you are confused Bee Jay. The Hotcam was for use in a LT1/LT4 Gen 2 block but can also be used in a Roller block by pushing in the dowel slightly.

 

It's been done, LT4 Hot Cam, into a Gen I small block, lots. Several here have done it. I think Jason is running that cam. Chevy builds it with and iron distributor gear drive and fuel pump lobe. It's supposed to work really well with AFR 195 heads, free flow exhaust, and dual plane intake.
I missed out on the conversion lifter deal on the C4 Parts for Sale forum. Know of another source for hydraulic conversion roller lifters?
Bee Jay

 

I agree with the Crane thing. Sad that the company is gone now. I don't see any good alternative for their billet rollers.