Clutch replacement
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
I'm having the clutch replaced in my 71 right now. I shopped around a little and considered a RAM clutch, but my car isn't really a monster and I didn't want to spend the $400 for the kit, but it looked like a decent clutch and I'll probably put one in after I build my motor up. I'm replacing the ring gear since it got a little chewed up by a faulty starter, swapping a pilot bearing in instead of a bushing, having the flywheel resurfaced, new clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing, also needed a new clutch fork, fork seal (boot) and pivot stud.
Terrorizing Orange Cones
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 17
From: Northern CO
I like clutches in our Corvettes. Something about rowing gears that gets the juices flowing on twisty roads or straight line racing or just cruising the boulevard.
That said, I grew up on Hays clutches and components. Most major brands are quality pieces. I have a new 168T 30lb Hays flywheel waiting for install and because I chose a kit when I ordered my Keisler TKO600, I have a Sachs pressure plate and disc standing by too.
If keeping the 4-speed, ensure it's stable. Shift ok? No grinding from worn synchros or gears? Any oil leaks? Check the operation of the shifter: pivot points, linkages [rods-levers], retaining clips, and functional switches. Inspect the speedo cable, trans mount, and trans crossmember. Inspect the overall condition of trans case. Condition of fork, its pivot ball, boot, throw-out bearing, and pilot bushing/bearing. Check condition of bellhousing and its dust cover, if still there. Check z-bar and associated linkages. Check condition of steering lock cable connected to reverse lever (if still used).
Repair or replace as needed. Here's a clutch website with some general info for more info:
http://www.clutchwizard.com/performance.htm
Get back to us if you have more questions.
That said, I grew up on Hays clutches and components. Most major brands are quality pieces. I have a new 168T 30lb Hays flywheel waiting for install and because I chose a kit when I ordered my Keisler TKO600, I have a Sachs pressure plate and disc standing by too.
If keeping the 4-speed, ensure it's stable. Shift ok? No grinding from worn synchros or gears? Any oil leaks? Check the operation of the shifter: pivot points, linkages [rods-levers], retaining clips, and functional switches. Inspect the speedo cable, trans mount, and trans crossmember. Inspect the overall condition of trans case. Condition of fork, its pivot ball, boot, throw-out bearing, and pilot bushing/bearing. Check condition of bellhousing and its dust cover, if still there. Check z-bar and associated linkages. Check condition of steering lock cable connected to reverse lever (if still used).
Repair or replace as needed. Here's a clutch website with some general info for more info:
http://www.clutchwizard.com/performance.htm
Get back to us if you have more questions.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
If it has high miles on it the pilot bearing/bushing throwout bearing, pivot stud in the bellhousing and fork. All these are wear items and should be done in a high mileage car. Also look at the linkage. The Z bar has a tendancy to oblong the holes for the rods. This will cause sloppy clutch linkage. Possible binding up and just not very smooth engagement. Resurface the flywheel and if needed replace the ring gear as said above.
