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Taking off my AFRs

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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 08:50 PM
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Default Taking off my AFRs

I've got a rebuilt 350 bored .30 over with stock type FT pistons. In my eagerness to do something to this motor to satisfy my hunger for speed I removed the stock cylinder heads and cam and replaced them with a set of 195 cc AFR eliminators with 75 cc combustion chambers and a comp cams XE268H cam shaft. I have been running this combo for about a year now but feel like I am putting these cylinder heads to waste on an otherwise rather stock SB. So, I've been thinking about killing two birds with one stone by removing the AFRs, setting them aside for a future, well planned engine build, and in the mean time putting some 65cc cast iron or, say Patriot aluminum heads on to raise the compression a bit. I feel like the increased flow I gained from putting the AFRs on was cancelled out due to the low compression of the motor (too high combustion chamber volume). Sharing your thoughts on the matter will probably be helpful. Thanks.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:06 PM
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Why don't you sell the 195s and buy some 180s that you probably should have gotten to begin with.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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I bought the 195s thinking down the road (which is right around the corner now) id be building a fire-breathing monster of a 383. I wanted to keep my options open.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:18 PM
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But to answer your question, I'm not looking to spend another 1400 bones on a very nice set of 180s. If I do buy 180s, I'm looking for something under a grand. I realize aluminum heads allow you to run a slightly higher compression but I'm not sure that would be an issue if I run no less than 65ccs and do not swap pistons. Looking for a little more tech talk if you will, to fill in the empty holes of knowledge here..
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:18 PM
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compression although often overlooked IS the foundation for performance......everything else follows, camshaft, fuel system, timing curve, etc......

Last edited by midyearvette; Jun 24, 2009 at 09:20 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:24 PM
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How about a modest head milling? Get the chamber down to 68cc or something. Milling is cheap and you probably wouldn't need to mill your intake for such a small cut.

What gasket size do you have in there now? That might be another option - you can get gaskets down into the .027" compressed height range for not a lot of cash.

Jim
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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Build (buy) the firebreather 383 shortblock first the just swap the Patriots onto it when you're ready. I don't see where the two birds with one stone thing is happening with your plan?
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 11:02 PM
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Luke......I have some nice Brodix IK 180s that I had new valves,springs,retainers,etc. installed,and needing a bigger head.I have a chance to get a rotating assembly w/popups,and w/my 64 cc heads,and zero deck......I am going to be sitting right under 13 to 1.Or...I would probably sell them right out.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 01:14 AM
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Leave the Heads where they are and just add a couple of Turbo's. Sounds easy.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 02:48 AM
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if its a patch fix you're looking for on the 355, how about a set of vortec heads? theyre all pretty cheap, and flow well. SDPC has some high lift versions too. you could prob get a used set on craigslist for next to nothing. of course, they are iron and some of the manifold bolts are at a dif angle (new manifold or retap the heads), so pros and cons.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by midyearvette
compression although often overlooked IS the foundation for performance......everything else follows, camshaft, fuel system, timing curve, etc......
I disagree....Heads are the main key to making power, says the guy with a 9.8 compression big block with full cnc ported AFR heads that is in the 9's on motor.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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insted of baying patriot heads ,,get new doom pistons kit that will pump up your comp
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Tumarr
I disagree....Heads are the main key to making power, says the guy with a 9.8 compression big block with full cnc ported AFR heads that is in the 9's on motor.
thats your opinion and that's ok however your engine is built around your compression ratio..also were talkin normally aspirated....power adders may tweak the formula somewhat but it is still based on cr and cylinder pressure based on camshaft etc.....i think you were missing my point...good luck
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by c31980
insted of baying patriot heads ,,get new doom pistons kit that will pump up your comp


Piston change is relatively inexpensive fix but only if you're doing the work. Speedpro hyper dome/popup H618CP30 (+3.5cc dv) or H617CP30 (+11.8cc dv) could put you near 9.6:1 or 10.6:1, respectively. And you'd retain the heads' potential for possible stroker. Check w/ CF member dmaaero ... IIRC, he's pleased w/ H618.

Last edited by jackson; Jun 25, 2009 at 08:27 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 09:05 AM
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If I were you, I'd take a peek at some solid FT circle track cams. Ground on 106 LC and with the right duration it will effectively raise the compression through valve timing, and then your heads will come alive. A cam is only $200 or so, and the heads better than $1400. Why waste the good stuff sitting on a shelf in the garage.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Luke303
I've got a rebuilt 350 bored .30 over with stock type FT pistons. In my eagerness to do something to this motor to satisfy my hunger for speed I removed the stock cylinder heads and cam and replaced them with a set of 195 cc AFR eliminators with 75 cc combustion chambers and a comp cams XE268H cam shaft. I have been running this combo for about a year now but feel like I am putting these cylinder heads to waste on an otherwise rather stock SB. So, I've been thinking about killing two birds with one stone by removing the AFRs, setting them aside for a future, well planned engine build, and in the mean time putting some 65cc cast iron or, say Patriot aluminum heads on to raise the compression a bit. I feel like the increased flow I gained from putting the AFRs on was cancelled out due to the low compression of the motor (too high combustion chamber volume). Sharing your thoughts on the matter will probably be helpful. Thanks.
Easiest improvements:
The AFRs are great heads - I'd hate to see you going backwards...

1. Use a thinner head gasket such as Fel Pro's steel shim at ~0.018 thickness instead of a .040 thick gasket. This will raise your CR by 1/2 point from 8.5 to 9.0 - this assumes stock deck height - check your quench height - should be .035 to .040.

2. Mill the heads by .060 to get 65 cc chambers - this will raise the CR by another full point to 10:1.

3. Do the above and add a bigger cam such as the Comp XE-274H.

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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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I have the AFR 195's with 75CC chambers. Milled them to 70CC's right out of the box to optimise compression for my build. Quench is @ .040. What intake and exhaust do you have? Restriction at either of these will drasticaly reduce power. Tuning is another consideration. Going to stock 65CC iron heads or Patriots is a giant step backward. More compression and less flow will not help your power. Look elsewhere for performance gains, you have the right heads.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 11:21 AM
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here is a quote from another post. Shows a stock L-82 (your flat top = L82 comp.) Adds intake, Adds headers then compares different heads, including AFR 195:
Intake and headers are a must:
Patriots don't flow as well as vortecs!!! This has been proven in back to back dyno tests on this forum before.
Vortec adds 21HP
Edlebrock adds 33 HP
Brodix IK 180 adds 50 HP
AFR 195 adds 81 HP
Originally Posted by billla
Either of the suggested 64cc non-Vortec heads are a good choice if you can make the budget. Remember that for those heads you still need to invest in head bolts (aluminum heads require bolts with washers, ARP recommended), rockers and a gasket set. Just don't short yourself on budget - getting something twice as good 1/2 way done doesn't really help

I did some DD work this morning just for fun. Note that DD is a useful tool - but results aren't perfect by any means.

I have an L-82 baseline model that makes 262HP@5000 RPM and 346TQ@3500 RPM at the flywheel. I use a correction factor of 80%HP/75%TQ (DD is torque-optimistic) for drivetrain and accessory losses, which gives 209HP@5000 and 259TQ@3500 - reasonably close to published specs.

So let's make some changes in the model and see what we get. All of these are in flywheel numbers, so apply the above 80%HP/75%TQ correction for reality at the rear wheels.

BASELINE: 262HP@5000, 346TQ@3500

Intake: 287HP@5000, 352TQ@3500

...add headers:

Headers: 319HP@5000, 379TQ@3500

Now let's do a head comparo based on the above updated baseline; flow numbers are from published tests where available.

Vortec: 340HP@5000, 389TQ@3500
E-Street: 352HP@5000, 392TQ@3500
IK180: 369@5000, 394TQ@4000 (<--new peak)

And, just for fun:
AFR 195 Street: 400HP@6000, 400TQ@4000

This exercise tells us a couple of things, but mostly heads = HP when properly matched with all the components as DRIVESHAFT noted. Interestingly, going with a modern cam profile at about the same lift showed a slightly better torque curve, but typically less peak power. As the cams got more radical, the better heads started to shine...but I don't think your goal is big HP numbers but just a stronger driver.

OK, that's my hour today

Last edited by 63mako; Jun 25, 2009 at 11:31 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by midyearvette
compression although often overlooked IS the foundation for performance......everything else follows, camshaft, fuel system, timing curve, etc......
Originally Posted by Tumarr
I disagree....Heads are the main key to making power, says the guy with a 9.8 compression big block with full cnc ported AFR heads that is in the 9's on motor.
You're both wrong. The camshaft is the foundation in which the motor should be built around. It defines the ultimate characteristics for every aspect of the motor.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
You're both wrong. The camshaft is the foundation in which the motor should be built around. It defines the ultimate characteristics for every aspect of the motor.
how in the world would you pick a cam without a determined compression ratio???....flip a coin??......this is really getting silly....signing off now....you experts go ahead, remember, this thread started out about compression, which is entirely related to what fuel and engine use, street or race or both........

Last edited by midyearvette; Jun 25, 2009 at 12:01 PM.
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