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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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Default LS1 Conversion

I am thinking of putting an LS engine on my 74 later on, but have a couple of questions about this conversion:

1) What kind of fabrications will need to be done?
2) Will the T56 clear the transmission tunnel on the C3's?
3) Is there anybody in the Bay area who has done an LS conversion on their C3?

I'm thinking of going with a carbureted LS so I won't have to go with all of the trouble of dealing with the wiring and the fuel system upgrade, at least for now. I have seen many threads, but I'm not clear on all of the fabrication people say is needed to drop an LS on a C3.
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 07:42 PM
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Go to the top of the Tech/Performance page. Look at the first "Sticky"
There are 87 pages of info!
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jordan89
I am thinking of putting an LS engine on my 74 later on, but have a couple of questions about this conversion:

1) What kind of fabrications will need to be done?
2) Will the T56 clear the transmission tunnel on the C3's?
3) Is there anybody in the Bay area who has done an LS conversion on their C3?

I'm thinking of going with a carbureted LS so I won't have to go with all of the trouble of dealing with the wiring and the fuel system upgrade, at least for now. I have seen many threads, but I'm not clear on all of the fabrication people say is needed to drop an LS on a C3.
To do it on the Cheap... use a 5.3 motor, a Carb Setup with MSD, and Factory C3 tranny... TH400/TH350 or manual will work with LS motors.

The 5.3 Motor is about 75lb heavier (still much lighter than your factory engine) and is only down about 10% on power with similar mods to a 5.7 motor.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...de-1500-a.html

Great info... except doesnt talk about CARB option. Which IMO is cheap and easy to setup. no computer, No Higher pressure fuel system, less wiring. And still gives the OLE SKOOL look of a C3
I am still running the Factory TH350 and 3.36 gear

Before It broke.... I was running 12.00 at 115mph with a 346 mild cam and pocket ported/milled heads and 680 AED HOLLEY double Pumper.

As far getting the motor in... it works just take moving the motor forward 1 inch and re dping the steering in the car. Also... you need a F-body oil pan... or heavy modded 5.3 truck pan. Motor mounts I used S&P... but they have several kits out there now.

Contact Speed hound on this forum for headers! Or you can use modded C5 manifolds.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by holley505
To do it on the Cheap... use a 5.3 motor, a Carb Setup with MSD, and Factory C3 tranny... TH400/TH350 or manual will work with LS motors.

The 5.3 Motor is about 75lb heavier (still much lighter than your factory engine) and is only down about 10% on power with similar mods to a 5.7 motor.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...de-1500-a.html

Great info... except doesnt talk about CARB option. Which IMO is cheap and easy to setup. no computer, No Higher pressure fuel system, less wiring. And still gives the OLE SKOOL look of a C3
I am still running the Factory TH350 and 3.36 gear

Before It broke.... I was running 12.00 at 115mph with a 346 mild cam and pocket ported/milled heads and 680 AED HOLLEY double Pumper.

As far getting the motor in... it works just take moving the motor forward 1 inch and re dping the steering in the car. Also... you need a F-body oil pan... or heavy modded 5.3 truck pan. Motor mounts I used S&P... but they have several kits out there now.

Contact Speed hound on this forum for headers! Or you can use modded C5 manifolds.
So if I use my stock 4sp tranny, will I have to modify the transmission crossmember? So how would I go about moving the motor up one inch, is that part of the fabrication? I tried lookin in the thread on the tech/perf. section, but I didn't see anything about what modifications are needed.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 12:52 PM
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Yes... your cross member needs to be modified and using the Swap motor mounts you will have a new location 1 inch forward from the factory location. I had a pro do mine for me. And your Drive shaft also. I have a few pics of my cross member if you want to see it.

A welder is your friend. For this swap.

I am not sure what mods are necessary to your clutch flywheel... but on my TH350 auto. I purchased the LS1 adapter/spacer and a LS1 adapter flywheel. total cost for those parts about 150.00 together (you can get them from summit also)

With the flywheel. (as we did on our 5.3 Fox mustang) you can drill new holes and make the factory LS flywheel work to save cash.

Once again... on a 4-speed M21 M22 I am not sure what you will need... but it has been done several times.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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No offense to Holley505, he has a fine conversion and has done a lot of work- but why would you want to put in an LS and carburate it? How much money can you really save? The intake, carburater, and ignition system to carburate it is not cheap. You can't use a mechanical fuel pump so you have to buy an electric one either way. Accessories are the same either way. Add the fact that an LS is meant to be a dry intake (there are areas where fuel can puddle) and it just does not make much sense to me. How many late model cars do you see broke down beside the road anymore? Fuel injection is reliable and more efficient. Fuel inject it or don't bother with an LS IMHO.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by markdtn
No offense to Holley505, he has a fine conversion and has done a lot of work- but why would you want to put in an LS and carburate it? How much money can you really save? The intake, carburater, and ignition system to carburate it is not cheap. You can't use a mechanical fuel pump so you have to buy an electric one either way. Accessories are the same either way. Add the fact that an LS is meant to be a dry intake (there are areas where fuel can puddle) and it just does not make much sense to me. How many late model cars do you see broke down beside the road anymore? Fuel injection is reliable and more efficient. Fuel inject it or don't bother with an LS IMHO.
I was thinking if I fuel inject it I might as well save some money and add a turbo later on. Although I think that the cost will be almost the same because if you upgrade the intake on an LS, you're looking at spending about $500+ on the intake and if it doesn't come with the TB you're looking at another $300, either way it will be costly.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by holley505
Yes... your cross member needs to be modified and using the Swap motor mounts you will have a new location 1 inch forward from the factory location. I had a pro do mine for me. And your Drive shaft also. I have a few pics of my cross member if you want to see it.

A welder is your friend. For this swap.

I am not sure what mods are necessary to your clutch flywheel... but on my TH350 auto. I purchased the LS1 adapter/spacer and a LS1 adapter flywheel. total cost for those parts about 150.00 together (you can get them from summit also)

With the flywheel. (as we did on our 5.3 Fox mustang) you can drill new holes and make the factory LS flywheel work to save cash.

Once again... on a 4-speed M21 M22 I am not sure what you will need... but it has been done several times.
I would like to see those pics please. So what were the major mods that were done, other than the crossmember and driveshaft?
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jordan89
I was thinking if I fuel inject it I might as well save some money and add a turbo later on. Although I think that the cost will be almost the same because if you upgrade the intake on an LS, you're looking at spending about $500+ on the intake and if it doesn't come with the TB you're looking at another $300, either way it will be costly.
An LS6 intake can be found for a couple hundred bucks with a drive by wire C5 throttle body. A turbo set up is going to cost you thousands. An LS6 intake works great for a turbo setup, no need to get a fast intake.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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Speedhound makes motor mounts and a Z bar mount that will allow use of your 4 speed in it's current location. No crossmember, driveshaft mods needed.
If you have a 168 tooth bell housing and flywheel and 26 spine trans input shaft, all you'll need is an LS1 flywheel/clutch/pressure plate. The trans will bolt right up. I would suggest a longer throwout bearing for better clutch fork geometry. The LS7 pilot bearing will allow the 4 speed to mate to the crank without mods.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by markdtn
No offense to Holley505, he has a fine conversion and has done a lot of work- but why would you want to put in an LS and carburate it? How much money can you really save? The intake, carburater, and ignition system to carburate it is not cheap. You can't use a mechanical fuel pump so you have to buy an electric one either way. Accessories are the same either way. Add the fact that an LS is meant to be a dry intake (there are areas where fuel can puddle) and it just does not make much sense to me. How many late model cars do you see broke down beside the road anymore? Fuel injection is reliable and more efficient. Fuel inject it or don't bother with an LS IMHO.
How many times do you think I have heard that one?

I love the carb. And In my mind it is cheaper.

Price a holley blue pump compared to a high pressure fuel pump lately? BTW it doesnt need to be in the tank.

See pricing on a FAST intake... 90 Throttle Body? Computer, Wiring harness... granted you can use factory stuff...

My MSD box has 6 plugs on it. Hook up the Carb and GO...

Different strokes for Different Folks.

My daily driver is a FRC... YES FACTORY FI... and I love it.

My C3 Fun Car... street/strip Car... Drag Radials... CARB !!

MUSCLE !!!

I have beaten a FI 07 Z06 at the track... Mostly due to the driver... and countless other FI cars. Lots of C5 and C6s

If fact I have probably been beaten by more CARBED cars than FI Cars on the street or the Track.

oops I said Street.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Garys 68
Speedhound makes motor mounts and a Z bar mount that will allow use of your 4 speed in it's current location. No crossmember, driveshaft mods needed.
If you have a 168 tooth bell housing and flywheel and 26 spine trans input shaft, all you'll need is an LS1 flywheel/clutch/pressure plate. The trans will bolt right up. I would suggest a longer throwout bearing for better clutch fork geometry. The LS7 pilot bearing will allow the 4 speed to mate to the crank without mods.
Yes. What he said. See the manual is different.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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Next time just post a link to this artcle:
http://www.carcraft.com/projectbuild...ock/index.html

Originally Posted by holley505
How many times do you think I have heard that one?

I love the carb. And In my mind it is cheaper.

Price a holley blue pump compared to a high pressure fuel pump lately? BTW it doesnt need to be in the tank.

See pricing on a FAST intake... 90 Throttle Body? Computer, Wiring harness... granted you can use factory stuff...

My MSD box has 6 plugs on it. Hook up the Carb and GO...

Different strokes for Different Folks.

My daily driver is a FRC... YES FACTORY FI... and I love it.

My C3 Fun Car... street/strip Car... Drag Radials... CARB !!

MUSCLE !!!

I have beaten a FI 07 Z06 at the track... Mostly due to the driver... and countless other FI cars. Lots of C5 and C6s

If fact I have probably been beaten by more CARBED cars than FI Cars on the street or the Track.

oops I said Street.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 10:17 AM
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NICE!

havent seen that one.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Garys 68
Next time just post a link to this artcle:
http://www.carcraft.com/projectbuild...ock/index.html
This can be argued all day. Car Craft gets parts free, probably MSD gave them a system to use. I still say that the cost savings is very small if you price all the parts. I am using a $120 pump on my FI conversion and it is also not in the tank. I did not have to cut my hood to make anything fit.

(Jegs)Carb parts-$350 intake, $350 MSD box, $350 carb.=$1150
(Street and Perf)FI parts-harness $850-$950 and computer work $250=$1100-1200

Not a lot of difference. This does assume a LS factory computer, intake, injectors, and throttle body came with your core. There are of course other parts to buy-for both. Cost not including fuel pump (roughly a wash) and accessories-same for both conversions.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by markdtn
This can be argued all day. Car Craft gets parts free, probably MSD gave them a system to use. I still say that the cost savings is very small if you price all the parts. I am using a $120 pump on my FI conversion and it is also not in the tank. I did not have to cut my hood to make anything fit.

(Jegs)Carb parts-$350 intake, $350 MSD box, $350 carb.=$1150
(Street and Perf)FI parts-harness $850-$950 and computer work $250=$1100-1200

Not a lot of difference. This does assume a LS factory computer, intake, injectors, and throttle body came with your core. There are of course other parts to buy-for both. Cost not including fuel pump (roughly a wash) and accessories-same for both conversions.
Lets race.... and see who wins !!
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by holley505
Lets race.... and see who wins !!
You will trounce my poor little Tuned Port, but if I had your engine with FI on top it would be a different race. That's what I am trying to say. You can have power AND fuel injection for roughly the same cost as a power and a carb. I have followed your conversion with interest and appreciate your work in the swap. I would not have used a carb.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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That's cool Markdtn. I have gotten alot of heat from the C5 forum guys for building a Carbed 418 LS3 which I should be starting up for a 4th July Party !!

I like to be different ... hence the swap in the first place. And the WOW factor... and people trying to guess what the motor. That is out right funny sometimes...

Others ... many other say what you say at the track FI is faster than Carbed... and I ask them to race.

Then they believe me.

Hey look at Pro Stock racing... sheet metal intakes and Carbs

I hope to go 11.1 to 10.9 on my new streetable LSx carb motor

Spray 150... go low 10s and drive home from the track... no trailer.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Garys 68
Speedhound makes motor mounts and a Z bar mount that will allow use of your 4 speed in it's current location. No crossmember, driveshaft mods needed.
If you have a 168 tooth bell housing and flywheel and 26 spine trans input shaft, all you'll need is an LS1 flywheel/clutch/pressure plate. The trans will bolt right up. I would suggest a longer throwout bearing for better clutch fork geometry. The LS7 pilot bearing will allow the 4 speed to mate to the crank without mods.
So I won't have to convert over to a hydraulic clutch setup? I have a staggered mount starter, doesn't that mean that it's a 168 tooth flywheel? There so much great information here, thank you guys very much!
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 01:39 PM
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Nope, I'm running a manual Z bar.
Look up 168 vs 153 tooth bell housings, you can tell by the shape of the starter bulge. You'll need the 621 style 168 tooth housing to clear the LS flywheel and pressure plate. I swapped my 4 speed for a Richmond 6 speed. I bought a 621 BBC bell housing from Keisler. It had the extra LS bolt hole machined, but that's not necesary.
You can find the PN for the throwout bearing and pilot bushing in my posts the LS swap sticky.
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