My lock cylinder screwed up the other day on the 1972. Just turns and clicks, no power, no start, nothing. Also woulnd't let my key out and the car was stuck in "park." But the steering wheel wasn't locking either. Anyway, looked and saw that the rod along the steering column isn't moving.

This morning I've removed the steering wheel, turn signal switch, and now I cannot get the lock cylinder out. Before I get mad and go after it with the Makita hammer drill, Is there anything I need to do?

I've read and re-read the Haynes manual instructions. "Insert a thin blade or driver into the slot in the turn signal switch housing. Break the housing flash loose and at the same time depress the spring latch at the lower end of the lock cylinder. Hold the latch down and withdraw the lock cylinder from the housing"

OK, on my 1978, the lock cylinder actually comes out (I think it's missing the secure screw) and I see the sping-loaded tab on the bottom of the cylinder. I'm using this lock cylinder as a reference. Anyway, I push this spring up (in) on the 1972 to release the cylinder, and nothing happens. Cylinder doesn't budge at all. There was a thin folded black metal tab in this hole when I removed the turn signal switch. Was is this for? It was loose and I was able to pull it out by hand, it was just resting loose in there. I suppose it's supposed to serve some function, and maybe this is part of my problem?

Thanks in advance for any help, I've gotta go to work now :smash:

 

Thats how I got mine out on my 77. And its still out...waiting for parts...lol. Anyway, a forum member, Jim Shea, pointed me to http://www.corvettefaq.com . It has step by step instructions on how to do this and many other things. Sure helped me. Check it out...see if its what you need. Hope that helps.

Ron

 

Unless you have a steering column from a 1979 or newer Corvette, the lock cylinder should be held in place by the spring loaded lock tab at about the 1 o'clock position like you describe. 1979 and later columns had a allen head screw at about the 2 o'clock position to hold the lock cylinder in place.

You must have the lock cylinder in the "RUN" position in order to be able to pull the lock cylinder out of the column.

I do not know what the folded black metal tab is. It sounds like Bubba has been poking around before you.

 

No, didn't do it. I tried your suggestions (good link and info, by the way) The gear that connected to the switch actuator rod and rack (the sector as it's called in the drawings) seems to be loose. I can see it pivoting when I turn the key, and the gears look pretty scarred and generally F'd up. There's no spring tension in the start position, and looking at the drawings, isn't that tension coming from the preload spring in the actuator rack?

If I'm rebuiding (God please, no) the rack,etc. is it necessary to pull the steering column out of the car? :eek: :(

 

The spring tension pushing the lock cylinder back from the START position to the RUN position is coming from the ignition switch down on the column.

I still don't have any ideas as to why the lock cylinder won't come right out of the column when you depress the lock tab.