I decided to go with the LT1 instead of the LS... I know... I know... but I got a great deal on a motor WITH a T-56 I couldn't pass up. It's a 1997 LT1 from a Camaro.

I'm ready to start collecting parts I need for the swap and I'm really hoping some of you will have some resources... I've done a decent amount of homework on other threads, but there is SO much information I was hoping I could get some consolidation here.

My plan is to pull the current engine, prep the bay, pull dash, console, seats and carpet. Try to get the new motor mounted and then have a pro custom shop assist with the details below. I have a place in mind, but I want to do as much myself as possible to keep costs down.

Specifically I would really like to obtain any links, phone numbers, etc. for the parts I think I need. I'm in San Diego, CA just for reference.

I would really appreciate the input guys... thanks in advance.... here we go:

Fuel system
1. Fuel cell
Use stock cell and modify? or is there an aftermarket suggestion? If aftermarket, then where have some of you gone?

2. Fuel Pump & Filter System
Here are photos of what someone else did... Anyone see a problem with this set up?
Looks like stock fuel cell is used.

(see pics below)

3. Pump, Filter & Sending unit
Any links where to get these items? Just want good, reliable parts, only looking for car to put out about 400hp.


Cooling, Serp System & Accessories
1. Accessories & Serp
I really need some resources here... I want to run, AC, PS and ALT... that's it.
Does anyone make a complete package that bolts right up and will fit?
I have the AC comp and this ALT... will need a PS pump.

2. Radiator
Have one that appears it will fit, but not sure if it will work... Anyone think this will work? (see pic below)

3. Electric Cooling Fan
I have one, not sure the CFM... think this will work? (see pic below - attached to radiator pic referenced above)

4. Vacuum configuration (Headlight actuators & Power brake booster)
On an LT1 where are you pulling vacuum to run the headlights?
Is the line used on the LT1 for brake booster ok to use with stock '73 booster?


Control Systems
1. Manual pedal assembly (My car is currently auto... )
What car has a pedal assembly that will bolt right up I can find used?
Or is there a resource to buy a new assembly that bolts up?

2. Throttle Cable
New pedal assembly required?

3. Shifter location options: (which is best/most cost effective)
a. shifter kit?
b. motor mount adapters to move motor forward?
c. modify stock shifter?
A couple pics below show two options.... shifter kit and stock mod...
I think I'm leaning on the stock mod... it looks like it fits better... neither solution appears to require moving the engine forward. (see pics)

4. Clutch master cyclinder mount in firewall (need support bracket?)
I spoke with someone, they said to use an aftermarket slave from "Tilton"
I would like to use the stock one to save on buying more parts.
With the pedal assembly, did anyone have to mod the pedals to make the stock slave from the '97 work?


Electrical
1. PCM location (have, location suggestions?)

2. Tach & Speedo (try to use existing guages - replacement gauges that work with electronic sending?)
How did some of you solve this issue? I would like to keep the dash looking stock, but I want all the gauges to work... well may not the clock... they never work... lol.

3. Oil Pressure, Temperature, Volt guages
How did you get these to work?

4. Ignition & battery wiring
Was this pretty straight forward?

5. A/C system
a. Vintage Air System?
I'm considering a vintage air system, anyone used one? Good stuff? Hard to install?

6. WHAT DID I MISS?


Exhaust
Think these headers will fit? Please???
See pic


Here are links to the pics:

FUEL SYSTEM 1

FUEL SYSTEM 2

FUEL SYSTEM 3

CLUTCH SLAVE MOUNTING

SHIFTER KIT OPTION

STOCK SHIFTER MOD 1

STOCK SHIFTER MOD 2

RAD. I HAVE WITH FAN

MOTOR THAT IS GOING IN 1

MOTOR THAT IS GOING IN 2

MY HEADERS THAT I HOPE WILL FIT



Thank you very much for any help... I'm really looking forward to getting to the next step here.

Roc

 

The fuel system pics are from my install. If the LT1 uses the same fuel pressure as the LS1 you should be OK. I ran a new fuel line down the driver side and eliminated the evap line. I used the evap fitting on the tank for the return line since it is a 5/16" fitting and capped the original return line on the pass. side. If you do this you have to switch to a vented gas cap. You could also use the original fuel and return lines - you just have to reduce the return to a 1/4".

Use a relay and fuse for the fuel pump. The ECU probably has a wire for turning the relay on and off.



Rick B.

 

I put an LT1/T56 into my 85 Iroc, so let me refresh my memory or that swap....

Call and talk to Dan, he has done the LT1 C3 swap before and he has some of the parts you need. Specifically the fuel system. You can retain your stock tank.

http://www.vetteworksonline.com/

You can use the stock corvette motor mounts with the LT1. I would try to snag an LT1 or LS1 fan setup for your car. I sell a tubilar crossmember that will work for your car. Hmmm what else. pedals, just get a manual setup from any 68-81 corvette, it will bolt right in.

For the clutch master. S&P has a bracket that will allow you to use the Camaro master cylinder. If you want to convert your setup to hydrolic I can make a master cylinder for you.

S&P also has most of the parts to do the swap but they can get spendy. Check them out, they have alot of write ups.

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/


GOOD LUCK!

 

Alright... Said I would keep up with the progress... I know this is taking time between updates, but it should go a bit faster now.

Began the tear down and I'm ready to remove the motor and tranny.

I need a couple suggestions:

-- I'm putting in new bushings, ball joints, coil springs and shocks in the front end. I was thinking of lowering the car just about an inch.... Where can I get coil springs that will do this? Or do you not recommend this? I have the carbon monospring in the back and can adjust the ride height to match... just want a little lower of a stance, nothing major.

That's about it for now... thanks for any help.
Here are a couple pics of the tear down.









Roc

 

The VB&P 550# coil springs will lower your front end 1" unless the LT1 is all-aluminum. My car with LS1/T56 and 550# springs seems to sit about stock ride height or a little lower due to the reduction in weight. 550# springs are considered medium-weight springs so I wouldn't worry about the ride being too harsh. Lots of people use them.



Rick B.

 

Sweet... So should I get the shocks and ball joints from them as well, or is there a more economical suggestion?

I already got the bushing kit for the front...

Thanks!
Roc

 

Fuel system
1. Fuel cell
2. Fuel Pump & Filter System
3. Pump, Filter & Sending unit
In a 78-82 use the stock tank with an 82 sending unit and different pump.

In a 68-77 you can use the stock tank with a pump setup like you show or I just use an '88 Ford truck pump on my TPI conversion. You can also buy a custom tank with pump inside from places like Rock Valley. This is what I would do if doing it again.


1. Accessories & Serp
You can buy LT1 accessories from Street and Performance or just use C4 stuff.

2. Radiator
Not as sure on that. I think you have to have LT1 specific because of the inlet/outlet.

3. Electric Cooling Fan
You need a good one. I am using dual C4 fans on mine. You can also use dual C5 or dual SPAL fans. Some use a single fan, but it needs to be pretty large.

4. Vacuum configuration (Headlight actuators & Power brake booster)
Large line is fine for booster. There should be another small intake port for the headlights.

Control Systems
1. Manual pedal assembly (My car is currently auto... )
Any C3 pedal assy will work, there are minor differences through the years.

2. Throttle Cable
On a TPI conversion a C4 cable works


3. Shifter location options: (which is best/most cost effective)
4. Clutch master cyclinder mount in firewall (need support bracket?)
Can't help here

Electrical
1. PCM location
Up to you but maybe back side of the inner fender?

2. Tach & Speedo (try to use existing guages - replacement gauges that work with electronic sending?)
3. Oil Pressure, Temperature, Volt guages
Stock gauges work, but I changed to electric oil pressure and a voltmeter, also a later electronic tach. Just use whatever oil pressure sender you have. For the speedo you can have it converted to electronic.


4. Ignition & battery wiring
Yes, with an aftermarket harness. Not too bad with a stock harness if you are good with electrical work. You will still have to have the PCM modified to remove VATs and other stuff. May want to go to a '95 back harness and OBD1.

5. A/C system
I have stock, can't help with VA system

6. WHAT DID I MISS?


Exhaust
Stock C3 headers should fit if they are big enough to cover the ports on the heads.

I am adding my TPI install guide that has some advice on LT1 in case you haven't seen it before.

***************
You have a unit
First you have to determine whether you want mass air flow or speed density. The C3 is more conducive to speed-density due to space issues. Mass-air flow is easier to make engine changes without PROM changes. If you are technically proficient enough to make a Camaro harness work they can be bought for $100 or less. I have been told that you can also use a 3.1 Corsica or Cavailier harness with a little work, it uses the same 7730 Speed-Density ECM. Aftermarket harnesses range from about $300 for Painless to $500 for Howell to $700 for Street and Performance. Howell makes a great harness, but for a Tuned Port they do not make one that will control the converter lockup on a 200R4/700R4/4L60 transmission. If you are running a manual or non-overdrive-automatic transmission I highly recommend them. I have heard great things about Street and Performance harness, but do not have first hand experience with them. I also have a Fuel Injection Specialties (FIS) harness and it is OK. The ECM can be had used for $10-50. A good external fuel pump will cost at least $100. I use an 88 Ford Truck external pump, $114 from CarQuest, made in Texas by Airtech. If you have a 78-82 you can use your fuel tank with an 82 sending unit and a TPI pump. 68-77 can also use a modified tank or Rock Valley makes a tank for these cars with a baffle and a GM internal fuel pump. Stock 82 tanks do not have a baffle contrary to popular belief. An aftermarket PROM with VATS and Emissions codes removed will be $100-200 depending on source and complexity. You will have to add an oxygen sensor to your exhaust, $20 for the sensor, $5 for the weld-in bung, and say $25 for an exhaust shop to weld it in if you can’t. Some harnesses use VSS and some do not. An auxiliary VSS sensor is around $75. I recommend using VSS to get better drivability. To install a TPI I say figure at least $800 plus the TPI unit and whatever repairs are necessary to bring it up to useable status. I have TPI/700R4 in my 69 Corvette (Howell harness) and an 83 Pickup (FIS harness) and I love it. Starts good, great torque, good fuel mileage, easy to swap onto stock engines (although both of mine are complete engines out of 90/91 ‘Vettes).

Differences in years
All Corvette TPI intake manifolds work with the older (through 86) iron heads and the factory aluminum heads through 91. F-body TPI intakes use the upright center bolts on 87-92 and thus fit all 87-95 iron heads (non LT1). Either can be swapped to fit the other with some drilling. F-body has the fuel lines come out on the drivers side and has a central port for EGR. Corvette has fuel lines that come out on the passenger side and has an external port for EGR. Corvette fuel rails fit F-body intakes and vise-versa. The runners are all the same through the years, but the LH runner has a hole for a 9th injector in the 85-88 runners. This can be plugged off if you get a nice LH runner and don’t want the 9th injector or decide to run speed-density. The plenums all physically interchange, but 90-92 have an extra vacuum port for the MAP sensor used with the speed-density computers and wiring. 89 is an odd year, it is mass-air flow but without the 9th injector. 89 up throttle bodies can be used on all years, but a 85-88 throttle body requires a ½” hole be drilled in the front of a 89-92 Plenum for idle air. 89-92 Throttle bodies have a more desirable cable attachment. The cable attaches around a circular linkage which has a smoother actuation than the straight linkage on the 85-88. The Corvettes have an aluminum plenum extension over the distributor, the F-body extensions are plastic. The Corvettes use an HEI coil-in-cap distributor for 85-91 (Delco 1103680). 85-86 F-body also used a big-cap distributor. 87-92 F-Body used a small cap distributor with an external coil (Delco 1103479). This same distributor is used in the 87-95 5.0/5.7/7.4 TBI injected trucks and pre-LT1 B-body. The F-body intake gets it's exhaust for EGR from the center passages in the heads like most SB Chevys. A Corvette intake gets it's EGR exhaust from the RH exhaust manifold/header through a flex-tube to an opening near the distributor-no center passages in the intake. If you are required to keep EGR and you have a Corvette intake, I recommend getting the C4 exhaust manifolds. They are like mini-headers, and have a 2 1/2" outlet. I have them on my 69 and like them.

As far as a throttle cable to use, on my Vette, I used a TPI Corvette cable, 1990 I think (now discontinued from GM) but you have to cut the end off inside the car and use a hood-release-cable end (Corvette Central 342138 "cable stop") to get it the correct cable length (the housing is OK). You must use a cable from the type car your throttle body came from if you want to have a chance of not cutting it. Again, 85-88 use a straight pull, while 89-92 have a circular attachment for more smooth actuation and so the inner cable is longer. On my 83 truck I used a TPI F-Body cable and it was OK, but I had to coil it up into a loop in the engine compartment because the housing was so long. I also TPI'd a 72 Chevy truck and used a 90 350 TBI truck cable for it. It was 1/2" short outside if anything, but I was pretty pleased with it all told-I didn't have to shorten it. In a Vette it might be about right. In all vehicles I've done you need a die grinder to square the firewall hole off a bit. All vehicles I've done used the late throttle-body.

I would look into a TPI. They start immediately in winter, have great vacuum, and will get great mileage. I can open the headlights and the wiper door at the same time with no hesitation at all-solid wooomp. With 3.70 gears (and a 700R4 overdrive) I get 18mpg city and 22+ highway. With 3.55 or 3.36 it would be even better. You can probably find a used Corvette TPI engine for $1000 and with an $800 harness/computer/fuel pump you would be set. On a 78-82 you can use the stock fuel tank with an 82 sending unit and TPI pump and be in better shape than 68-77 with an external pump. With the Vette TPI you would have aluminum heads that would remove weight. Even with an F-body iron-head TPI 350 it will be less weight than a stock intake. It will bolt up to everything in your car, use stock accessories, use your transmission, and the visual appeal is awesome. Don't be afraid of fuel injection, it really works.

As far as websites see:
www.corvettefaq.com for conversions or more TPI info at www.fuelinjection.com also www.jagsthatrun.com for misc hard to find conversion parts and info.

LT1
Not to get too deep into the differences in LT1s, there are basically 3 variations. There is the C4 ('92-96) and an F-body ('93-97) version which are 5.7L and have aluminum heads. There is a B-body ('94-96) which is 5.7L with iron heads that actually flow better than stock aluminum heads. There is also a 4.3L B-body (L99) version that you want to stay away from. There is an LT4 in '96 that is an upgraded LT1. All are dimensionally the same as far as bolt-ons. Corvette engines have 4-bolt mains, all others have 2-bolt. All are cast iron blocks. An LT1 is a very similar installation to a TPI. As far as the mechanical installation, the 700R4 and 4L60E transmissions are the same (same length, same basic dimension, mounting, yoke, etc.). You have to have a computer to run a 4L60E which you will have for the engine anyway. As far as the engine, an LT1 will bolt in and can use the same exhaust although you may want to use C4 LT1 manifolds to get true 2 1/2" outlets. The biggest difference between a TPI and an LT1 installation is accessories. TPI can use stock C3 accessories. LT1 has to use LT1 accessories and really needs C4 LT1 accessories. Both F-body and B-body put the a/c compressor low on the passenger side. This interferes with the frame and the right motor mount. You have to use electric fans on an LT1, there are no provisions for a mechanical fan (B-body has an optional one, but it is offset and won't work in a C3). The other difference is in air intake, most LT1s are mass air flow. Again, it is difficult to locate the MAF sensor in a C3. You are better to have it set up for speed-density. In a '78-'82 C3 you could still use an '82 sending unit but an LT1 fuel pump instead. You will want to stay with programming for an OBD1 (pre-'96) style setup, without multiple oxygen sensors. '96-'97 OBD2 engines are fine, you just don't use all the sensors. LT1 requires a custom radiator because of how the hoses run. There are differences in the Optispark, later is better and if you swap to a later cam you can add the later vented Optispark setup. The water pumps are bad to fail and wet the Optispark, so always replace the water pump when you do a swap. LT1s have better top end power that TPIs, but all things considered I'd rather stay with TPI for a cruiser or mild build-I just like the look and the low end torque. If you want more power, LT1 is better; or just step up to an LSx.

 

That is a lot of information.... Thank you for your time here!

The motor I have is the f-body LT1, so I will need new accessory mounts. I've seen the C4 stuff, probably most cost effective, but not very attractive. Lol.

Think going to stick to mass air flow with the stock plenum. Have some parts to fab an intake duct.

Someone told me that using a radiator that has the inlet and outlet on the same side is 20% more efficient at cooling, so gonna try to work that out in addition to the cooling fan. I have a fan not sure if it's big enough.

Why would you want your fuel pump in the tank? Seems more hAssle to fix if it fails. Just curious.

I have a PCM that is already custom programmer to the motor... Came with the motor. Has a marked harness as well. When I get closer I'll throw a pic of the lead that says " VATS." not sure if it is already set up to bypass.

Still looking for some advice on the best way to mod the T56 shifter location to fit in a stock console.

I'm sure I'll have more qusestions as I get further. Thanks again to anyone that offers any information. It's really saving me a lot of time and that is huge.

Didn't even think about throttle cable, so thanks for the tips there.

Looking for pedal assembly now.

 

It should be quieter, takes up less space, that pump is probably available at any parts store in the US, pump should last longer since it is cooled by the fuel. You should probably get 100k miles before it fails, so not that big an issue.

 

Not to thread jack, but i am also doing and LT1 conversion in my 1980 C3, the engine is at the machine shop getting buttoned up, it will be a fully forged 396ci with th-350 and a 3000 stall. I am at the point where i am putting my harness together and the fuel pump.

Planing out of tank, any suggestions on a fuel pump and integrating into my fuel tank and sending unit?

Also how to get the TV cable from the th 350 to work with the LT1 throttle body?

 

This is the best aftermarket pump you can get. Quiet and super reliable and will support the power that motor is putting out.

http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?m...&products_id=1

as for the tranny. Yank it an put in a 4L60e (no TV cable) or my favorite a T56. It will make driving that car so much more fun!

 

Hey all!

Been awhile since I've updated this, but I have made some more progress.

Just got done disassembling the front suspension. Gonna get the new bushings, ball joints, shocks, coil springs, etc. installed; and the VBP rack and pinion steering.

While the machine shop has the control arms to install the bushings, I want to start cleaning up the engine bay for motor mock up and installation of a Vintage Air kit.

I attached a few pics of the firewall and would appreciate any input on what wiring I can get rid of here and/or replace for the new motor.

Just as a recall... I have an LT1 and T56 with the computer reprogrammed and wiring harness marked and ready. I plan on getting the old air conditioning unit off the firewall and cleaning up the engine compartment by getting rid of any unneeded wiring and mocking up any new wiring someone suggests.

Then I want to test drop the motor in and get everything lined up and ready for final install, including the tunnel cut for the T56 and shifter mod for the stick shift to fit properly in the stock console.

So if anyone has the time I would appreciate any advice on the wiring that is in the car that I should either get rid of, clean up or replace before doing the test drop on the motor.

Thanks a bunch!!
Rocco

 

I'm not really saavy with electrical systems... but I have installed a few stereo systems in my day and I own a multi meter and know how to use it. ha ha

But what I'm really after is to see if anyone can assist me in cleaning up the firewall and preparing the engine compartment electrically to receive a 1997 Camaro LT1 motor with a T56.

I have the computer already reprogrammed to remove smog and VATS and a wiring harness for the motor to attach to all the sensors.

What I need to know is what wiring from the car do I need to start this motor up once it's in. Basically just a break down of the ignition system and what wiring from the car needs to interface with the computer for the motor.

I will also be installing a Vintage Air kit, so I'm planning on removing the old climate system asap. I intend to leave all stock wiring in place on the firewall that I'm sure works the climate system and take care of that when the VA kit is ready for installation.

I posted a few pics of my current firewall set up in my previous post... any assistance or tips on where to get information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Roc