1977 Power Steering Rehab
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 354
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From: Gurley Alabama
1977 Power Steering Rehab
Front suspension is stripped & disassembled & I'm waiting on parts to put it back together.
So, its time to take the power steering off the frame & decide what to do with it....I don't want to make any major changes but do want to make it the "best it can be"....
I read somewhere about a different steering box that makes the steering tighter & more responsivve but can't find where...does anybody know anything about that box?
& what hints do you guys with experience have for me as I tackle my power steering?
So, its time to take the power steering off the frame & decide what to do with it....I don't want to make any major changes but do want to make it the "best it can be"....
I read somewhere about a different steering box that makes the steering tighter & more responsivve but can't find where...does anybody know anything about that box?
& what hints do you guys with experience have for me as I tackle my power steering?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Rebuild the steering cylinder (it's just seals on the outer end...nothing inside) and the steering valve. If the power steering was working properly, I would just clean up/paint the pump, but not mess with it. Get all new hoses and make sure they are installed correctly. Find and print out the rebuild articles written by Jim Shea; they are a great help.
You can tighten-up the steering box with the adjustment on the top...as long as doing so doesn't cause any tight spots or binding up of the steering other places in its operating range (lock-to-lock). Loosen the lock nut on top while holding the adjuster screw in place with a screwdriver. Tighten the screw gently until resistance is felt. Now hold the screw in place with the screwdriver while you tighten the locknut. Take it for a drive in an open parking lot. To check for binding, make full right and full left turns, then releasing wheel to see if it centers itself without stopping/binding until it fully straightens out. If no binding in either direction, you can still take out more slack if you need to. Or just leave it as is. If you get any binding in the steering, back off the adjuster nut 1/4 turn and check it again.
You should also check to see if you need any lube in the steering box. Remove only the most forward and most rearward bolts from the top cover (leave one bolt in to keep it secured). Shine a penlight in the holes to see if you have adequate lube [or not]. It's likely that it is low and dried/hardened. If so, get a tube of steering box lube (I like synthetic since it takes heat better and stays good longer) and squirt it in the higher of the two holes till you see it getting closer to the lid. You want to leave some air pocket in there so that the lube can expand when heated. Put bolts back and drive happy!
You can tighten-up the steering box with the adjustment on the top...as long as doing so doesn't cause any tight spots or binding up of the steering other places in its operating range (lock-to-lock). Loosen the lock nut on top while holding the adjuster screw in place with a screwdriver. Tighten the screw gently until resistance is felt. Now hold the screw in place with the screwdriver while you tighten the locknut. Take it for a drive in an open parking lot. To check for binding, make full right and full left turns, then releasing wheel to see if it centers itself without stopping/binding until it fully straightens out. If no binding in either direction, you can still take out more slack if you need to. Or just leave it as is. If you get any binding in the steering, back off the adjuster nut 1/4 turn and check it again.
You should also check to see if you need any lube in the steering box. Remove only the most forward and most rearward bolts from the top cover (leave one bolt in to keep it secured). Shine a penlight in the holes to see if you have adequate lube [or not]. It's likely that it is low and dried/hardened. If so, get a tube of steering box lube (I like synthetic since it takes heat better and stays good longer) and squirt it in the higher of the two holes till you see it getting closer to the lid. You want to leave some air pocket in there so that the lube can expand when heated. Put bolts back and drive happy!
