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That's right, I'd hook it to the ignition tab in the fuse box, that way you can use the ACC back position w/o heating the choke. Ign hot in on, along with acc, but is not hot in the back acc position. C.
A long time ago looking for an ig. switched source for an underhood gauge. I knew the wiper motor had ig. switched power & located the yellow power wire & have posted it many times mostly for el. choke. Not necessary to splice. I just put a connector on the wire & pushed it into yellow wire slot.
A long time ago looking for an ig. switched source for an underhood gauge. I knew the wiper motor had ig. switched power & located the yellow power wire & have posted it many times mostly for el. choke. Not necessary to splice. I just put a connector on the wire & pushed it into yellow wire slot.
Not trying to hijack your thread, but I have the same issue. Here's a couple pic's of my set-up. Do we simply run a wire from the carb (choke terminal on the right) to the fuse block (which ACCY?). Does someone have a pic of what exactly you did and what guage wire do we use?
Just above the accy is the ign, most of the letters are not there on yours, just the part of the g and the n. Use the ignition connector, 16 gauge wire should be fine, that means red size code female lugs. above the ign should be the batt, hot all the time, confirm before you install by testing the lugs for hot in the different switch positions on the column switch. ign will be hot in on and start, acc will be hot in on and acc (one back behind off) it will be off in off and start, batt will be hot all the time- all switch positions.
Just above the accy is the ign, most of the letters are not there on yours, just the part of the g and the n. Use the ignition connector, 16 gauge wire should be fine, that means red size code female lugs. above the ign should be the batt, hot all the time, confirm before you install by testing the lugs for hot in the different switch positions on the column switch. ign will be hot in on and start, acc will be hot in on and acc (one back behind off) it will be off in off and start, batt will be hot all the time- all switch positions.
I used the ign tap and put a 10 amp fuse in the line, about 5" from the tap. Probably overkill, but I'd rather do it that way than melt the wiring, or worse, burn the car to the ground. It's not a glass fuse like our C3 have, but a plastic fuse like modern cars have. You can get all the parts you need at any good auto parts store.