1972 Temperature Gauge Issue

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Jul 7, 2009 | 04:13 PM

#21

oakley_77

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DWncchs

Some of those old testers aren't very reliable. You can pop your hazard warning flasher right out of your fuse box and test with that.

I just tested the ohms with from the tester and it was pretty accurate.

Jul 7, 2009 | 04:24 PM

#22

oakley_77

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DWncchs

Hopefully your flasher will be around 54 ohms which should give you a dash reading around 250 degrees--if it does then your problem is in the sender or the grounding of the sender. Here is a thread with a list of ohm readings and temps. Good Luck

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...uld-share.html

I just tested it with the hazzard flasher and the gauge doesn't want to move.

Jul 7, 2009 | 04:28 PM

#23

Alan 71

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From: Westminster Maryland

DW, your knowledge of how to test gauges and senders is amazing. There'd be a lot of cars with 1 or 2 non-working gauges if you weren't here. Thanks!!!!!
Regards,
Alan

Jul 7, 2009 | 05:14 PM

#24

...Roger...

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Quote:

Originally Posted by oakley_77

When I ground the wire on the frame or the block...it goes passed HOT.

Quote:

Originally Posted by oakley_77

I just tested it with the hazzard flasher and the gauge doesn't want to move.

But it moves to hot when grounded.......interesting.......whats the ohms reading on your flasher ?

Jul 7, 2009 | 05:15 PM

#25

...Roger...

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan 71

DW, your knowledge of how to test gauges and senders is amazing. There'd be a lot of cars with 1 or 2 non-working gauges if you weren't here. Thanks!!!!!
Regards,
Alan

Thanks Alan , I hope I've helped a little.

Jul 7, 2009 | 05:43 PM

#26

oakley_77

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DWncchs

But it moves to hot when grounded.......interesting.......whats the ohms reading on your flasher ?

Sorry DW, i thought you meant 180 by "HOT".
the ohms reading on the flahser was 53.4

Jul 7, 2009 | 05:52 PM

#27

...Roger...

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Quote:

Originally Posted by oakley_77

Sorry DW, i thought you meant 180 by "HOT".
the ohms reading on the flahser was 53.4

So grounding the sender wire to the block makes the gauge read 180 and just removing the wire makes the gauge read pegged to the left of 100 ?

Jul 7, 2009 | 06:18 PM

#28

...Roger...

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From: Dayton, Ohio

Sounds like you may have forgotten the fiber washer on the 3 oclock stud.

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Jul 7, 2009 | 06:19 PM

#29

oakley_77

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DWncchs

So grounding the sender wire to the block makes the gauge read 180 and just removing the wire makes the gauge read pegged to the left of 100 ?

When I ground the wire, it goes to approx. 230
When I remove the wire, it goes left the 100 mark.

Very strange issue. I got another gauge (used) from a local Corvette guy down here and it does the exact same thing.

Jul 7, 2009 | 06:22 PM

#30

oakley_77

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DWncchs

Sounds like you may have forgotten the fiber washer on the 3 oclock stud.

what does the fiber washer look like?

Jul 7, 2009 | 07:04 PM

#31

...Roger...

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Quote:

Originally Posted by oakley_77

what does the fiber washer look like?

Its just a small round insulating washer that goes under the resistor.

Jul 7, 2009 | 07:11 PM

#32

oakley_77

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DWncchs

Its just a small round insulating washer that goes under the resistor.

is it something that i could make here? or do I have to order that piece?

Jul 7, 2009 | 07:27 PM

#33

...Roger...

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Quote:

Originally Posted by oakley_77

is it something that i could make here? or do I have to order that piece?

Have you confirmed that its not there ?

Jul 7, 2009 | 07:32 PM

#34

oakley_77

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DWncchs

Have you confirmed that its not there ?

i just tested the the gauge with a small o-ring on the 3 o'clock pin...BINGO...the gauge goes past hot on 0 ohms and seems to work well on the cluster tester.

Jul 8, 2009 | 09:50 AM

#35

oakley_77

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I just wanted to thanks everybody (especially DWncchs) that helped me through this temp gauge issue. I wouldn't have fixed it without your guys/girls.

The gauge works perfectly in the car now!

Again, Thanks!

Jul 8, 2009 | 12:21 PM

#36

...Roger...

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From: Dayton, Ohio

Glad you got it working.

Jul 8, 2009 | 03:56 PM

#37

Drizzle

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I have the EXACT same issue and have been reading along this post. I got lost at the washer on the 3 oclock stud. Please elaborate what 3oclock stud you are talking about. I have a 70 L46 that I have been trying to get the gauge to work for months. DWncchs, thanks in advance.
--Donnie

Jul 8, 2009 | 04:00 PM

#38

Drizzle

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and last week I did the "go to radio shack" and buy resistors to check the wire and the gauge. here are the results:
Grounded: the temp gauge goes to the 3:00 position on a clock face
68 resistor: it reads 230
100 resistor: it reads 160
220 resistor: it reads 100
off: it reads around 90

While driving, it gets to 110 or so in traffic and never goes higher (starts at 90 cold). I know it is running hotter than that and I am afraid of overheating and not knowing it, so I want to fix it.
Thanks in advance.

Last edited by Drizzle; Jul 8, 2009 at 04:04 PM.

Jul 8, 2009 | 04:08 PM

#39

gerry72

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From: San Antonio TX

If you get 90ohms off the sensor wire to the gauge (sensor wire pulled off the sensor), then the problem is not in the gauge. More or less than 90ohms means gauge resistance has changed and will alter the reading. Most temp gauge problems are in the sensor or the wire (poor connection, corrosion).

Jul 8, 2009 | 04:13 PM

#40

...Roger...

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From: Dayton, Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drizzle

When your looking at the back of the gauge there are 4 studs,they are at 12,3,and 6 oclock. On the 3 oclock stud you have a fiber washer,one end of the resistor,lock washer and a nut-in that order.

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