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Would someone tell me where the LH Door Jamb Ground is supposed to be attached? I have a 69 vert and would like to make sure this is connected. It is part of the Dash Wiring Harness.
Above the top door hinge is where the main cabin ground attachment point,
to the bird cage , for all the interior Gnd points. It is the main harness.
You must also have a solid Gnd. going to the bird cage from the frame rail,
the orginal GM connection is 1/4" braid and slip on clip, (poor Design)
app. located under your left foot, between the frame rail and the bird cage,
I replaced this with a beefy Ground wire.
69VETT
Just for info, in 71, the hinge pillar ground is just as Duke's picture shows. But there is no ground from the birdcage to the frame. Was this possible because of the solid body mounts?
Regards,
Alan
Just for info, in 71, the hinge pillar ground is just as Duke's picture shows. But there is no ground from the birdcage to the frame. Was this possible because of the solid body mounts?
Regards,
Alan
That's odd, my 71' had one on it when I bought it and it looked original as it was rusty. I wonder if this was some kind of "field fix" because the thing really looks like an after thought. It doesn't show up in the 71' AIM (that I could find) but it is in the 78' AIM but it has a self tapping screw holding in on both ends as opposed to the clip on one end of the 71'.
Hi Gary,
Made me look!!!!
The body mount has a very nice hole right where your picture indicates.
The hole shows no traces of a self-tapping fastener having ever run through it for a C clip.
Now there's something else to add to my list of things to look for on 71 cars.
Regards,
Alan
unless you have another Gnd. going to the birdcage this could be problem.
Bird cage must be gnded. somewhere for a solid electrical path.
I do not know about the year changes. 69VETT
unless you have another Gnd. going to the birdcage this could be problem.
Bird cage must be gnded. somewhere for a solid electrical path.
I do not know about the year changes. 69VETT
The early C3 years had aluminum mounting bushings instead of rubber. I would bet that they are just bare aluminum and would corrode rather quickly in the rust belt thus insulating the birdcage from the chassis.........so as a quick field fix for no dash lights, the GM boys came up with this added ground wire. What do you think?
Here, I just posted this on the thread below this one. I had it handy and you can see the ground in the right hand lower side of the picture. It is a bear to get to this ground and the picture makes it look low. It is not! Use the jamb switch as a point of reference.
Duke! Great picture! I didn't see it until after I posted this one.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Jul 7, 2009 at 11:12 PM.
Well, as much as I dread it, I'll pull the dash.....again! I want this problem to go away. While I'm at it, I'll change the light switch as all this is relayed to trying to rpair my dash and instrument lights.
69vett, I'm trying to track down several issues the first of which is the dash/instrument panel lights. The second is the courtesy lights. My passenger side courtesy light works but the switch in the door does not make contact to cut it off. Why? i'm not sure but it appears that the switch isn't long enough for the door to push it in. If I push the switch in manually, it will cut the light off. I also replaced the drivers side door switch but this light stays on as well and the switch will not cut it off (door or manually). My rear cargo courtesy lamp does not work either. It will come on intermittently. I do believe I have a ground problem somehwhere but not sure. It's all fun but quite a bit challenging.
andy
Last edited by andycw; Jul 8, 2009 at 12:05 AM.
Reason: spelling
Well, as much as I dread it, I'll pull the dash.....again!
Thats the hard way to do it. There are other ways to confirm grounds.
One way is to get a $6 12v test light. Normally on a test light you attach the alligator clip to GROUND and with the probe end you check for power....when you are testing for grounds you REVERSE the light. Attach the alligator clip to the positive or power then touch the probe end to items you are checking for ground---if the light lights what your touching is grounded.
Another way is get a long piece of wire and strip both ends,attach one end to the neg terminal of the battery(you can't get a better ground than the neg term of the battery). With the other end of the wire start touching items you fear are not grounded--if those items begin to work they were ungrounded.
EDIT- Andy I doubt your dash light problem is caused by a bad central ground. I'm all about having good grounds but in this case many many other items in the dash share this central ground. To name a few--- the turn signal bulbs,high beam bulb,the fuel gauge and the water temp gauge. If all these work your prob is not the ground because all these items need the central ground to work.
Last edited by ...Roger...; Jul 8, 2009 at 08:19 AM.
dwnchss, Thanks for that advise. All those lights you mention are working. I'll check the fuse again. All the bulbs are/were good as I replaced them about a month ago (I had center out putting in radio among other things). They weren't working then but the fuse fixed them. What else could cause them not to work if the ground is good and the fuse is good?
keep in mind that fuse holder has old connections inside it,
only accesable when you take the fuse box apart,
after that it is just the wire going to the light switch.
also the light switch must be gnded. for the courtesy light to work.
sounds like you have corroded door switchs also, carefully unscrew the door switch the wires will remain attached,
slide the switch out and visually verify along with using a meter.
you will see how the switch is supposed to work.
"They weren't working then but the fuse fixed them. What else could cause them not to work if the ground is good and the fuse is good?"
sounds like a bad connection inside the fuse box to me.
good luck.... 69VETT
I checked for the bird cage ground to frame and it was not there. i installed one but it did not fix the dash light problem. I checked the fuse and found this: When I probed the right side with the light switch on (pulled out) with the alligator clip attached to the ground, the test light lit brightly. However the left side was very dim? I did this with a new fuse installed. If I turned the light switch, it did not cause the probe light to change brightness. I will replace the light switch tomorrow since I have the drivers dash pulled slightly out to gain access to the switch. i also noted that the dash ground is attached. I did note that the light switch has what looks like ceramic/white powder coming out of it. When I removed the switch, it appeared that one side was broken but I'm not sure if it was like this or if I did it while removing.
Last edited by andycw; Jul 8, 2009 at 10:28 PM.
Reason: name