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Headers for Dart Pro1 angle plug

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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 02:33 PM
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Default Headers for Dart Pro1 angle plug

My 70 vette has a stroked SBC with the Dart Pro1 angle plug heads. It's got the Steeroids rack and the Tremec TKO 5 speed. Does anybody know of a good header that will fit my Dart heads and angle plugs? I've tried the Hedman Elites (HED-68308) and the plug interference was a joke.
Thanks
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 06:04 PM
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Are the plugs L98 style if so Hooker makes some that will fit.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 06:10 PM
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ZZ71S,
I don't really know. I need to look at an L98 head online and compare.
I'll check tonight.
Thanks
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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I have the 230 Dart Pro 1 angle and the hooker 2134 fit fine.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 08:10 PM
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Hey thanks vetteaddic.
Those are sweet long tube headers.
Anybody running non-long tube headers that will fit the Dart Pro1 head?
I'm running a front monospring and ground clearance is a priority.
Thanks
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 08:38 PM
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vetteaddic,
I think I'm leaning towards your suggestion for the Hooker Super Comps. How is your ground clearance? Got any pics by chance?
Thanks again.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 10:15 PM
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How much lower is your car from stock?
I put in 550 springs they lowered the car about 3/4 of an inch the headers dont hit speed bumps or drive ways as long as you are careful
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 10:28 PM
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Hi ZZ71S,
It's pretty slammed. I've got the front monospring and tubular upper control arms from VB&P. It looks really good. Maybe a .5 inch of space between the tire and the fender. Learned a hard lesson right after the install. Went over a speed bump in my neighborhood like I "USED" to do with the old suspension and I crushed the oil pan and pan gasket. Made me sick as hell, but education is expensive. I *thought* I was driving slowly and carefully as I always do over the speed bumps. Well that train of thought has been totally adjusted. It clears as long as I go very slowly. I have factory side pipes on a non side pipe car and there were no issues with clearance. But the pipes are restrictive and too loud for my taste. I can adjust the ride height easy enough, but there goes the cool stance if I do that. One repeating complaint is that the Hooker Super Comps seem to hang really low. But according to my research on this forum and others, there's no issues with fit and clearance of the chasis, steeriods and most importantly my angle plug heads.
Thanks.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 01:12 AM
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I've had the Hooker s/c for about 20 years now and way over 100,000 miles with the JH coating on ten different motors. Three inch exhaust

The only problem I have had is now my exhaust ports are bigger than 1 3/4 with the Dart pro 227cc heads. I had to grind out the inside to port match
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 06:02 AM
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That's a good problem to have Gkull!

Thanks for the info. I think I'm gonna go with the standard painted Hooker S/C headers. That way it will allow my exhaust guy to manipulate them all he wants without having to get them re-coated. Then when everything is perfect and I've adjusted my driving so I don't scrape the hell out of them, I'll take them off and send them out to get JetHot coated.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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Use ARP universal 5/16th exhaust studs and Felpro blue steel gaskets the size recommened by Dart

Last edited by gkull; Jul 8, 2009 at 03:56 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 04:10 PM
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This is after I had my Hooker S/C recoated a few years ago



E-studs

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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 05:14 PM
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Hi Gkull,
Man those look sharp! I'm in flat black territory until I get a few thousand *learning* miles on them. I also have a feeling that my exhaust guy is going to have his way with them as well. I purchased the Stage 8 nickel plated header bolts. I've used them in the past with a lot of success. I like the stud idea and never really thought about it until you mentioned studs in this thread. I guess I'm stuck in my ways. Those primaries are huge! The factory side pipe primaries on my vette are tiny as hell. I think my motor has been smothered. I'm looking forward to seeing what my motor can do with a freed up exhaust system.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 05:42 PM
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With 1 3/4 inch pipes you don't have much room for bolts or big heads. In fact you will have a heck of time putting them in on a couple of cylinders. the last thing you want to do is strip out aluminum head exhaust threads. That is why the 5/16 nuts. then a dab of high temp red silicone and they never come off

This is my old 427 small block that later broke the crank shaft.

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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 09:30 PM
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Gkull,
With that photo I see the advantage of the studs. But I must point out my second favorite thing about the Stage 8 header bolts(the first being that they don't back out). They have an ingenious hex indention in the top of each bolt. It's hard to f*** up an allen head bolt. Plus the allen wrenches are small and easy to apply leverage in tight places. My next build I will try the studs. A good idea. By the way, that 427 Motown is sick as hell. I looked at the pics of the broken crank . Was that a World Products Motor? I bet that thing was fun as hell before you broke it!! Holy crap what a cool motor.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 01:20 AM
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The Bill Mitchel motors even at the 600 hp level are really built crappy to maximize profits. Poor quality control and morons making minimum wages putting them together. That is why the cranks get broken. My 434 is a real quality racing motor.

Look at the pipes on the passenger side. They cover the flange bolt holes
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 08:37 AM
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Gkull,
I think I'm missing something. The only photo I see with the headers mounted are on the driver's side.

I had no idea that the Bill Mitchel motors were built like that. Who built your 434?
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by brando1118
Gkull,
I think I'm missing something. The only photo I see with the headers mounted are on the driver's side.

I had no idea that the Bill Mitchel motors were built like that. Who built your 434?
The original 427 long block arrived with a dyno sheet just like they said. You could not rotate the motor because every rod hit the cam lobes. So how did they get the dyno sheet? A copy machine! Right. So it was a fight from day one. after dissassembly and rod clearancing, it was just one thing after another. The cheap pot metal Comp Cams Exteme solid roller ate away the fuel pump cam filling the motor with metal flakes. The balance job was done wrong with all the lightening holes in the rear throw which ultimately led to it breaking. Right on the crank manufacturing site it gave balancing instructions and they did the short cut balance to save labor hours. They screwed me good.

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