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My 70 vette has a stroked SBC with the Dart Pro1 angle plug heads. It's got the Steeroids rack and the Tremec TKO 5 speed. Does anybody know of a good header that will fit my Dart heads and angle plugs? I've tried the Hedman Elites (HED-68308) and the plug interference was a joke.
Thanks
Hey thanks vetteaddic.
Those are sweet long tube headers.
Anybody running non-long tube headers that will fit the Dart Pro1 head?
I'm running a front monospring and ground clearance is a priority.
Thanks
vetteaddic,
I think I'm leaning towards your suggestion for the Hooker Super Comps. How is your ground clearance? Got any pics by chance?
Thanks again.
How much lower is your car from stock?
I put in 550 springs they lowered the car about 3/4 of an inch the headers dont hit speed bumps or drive ways as long as you are careful
Hi ZZ71S,
It's pretty slammed. I've got the front monospring and tubular upper control arms from VB&P. It looks really good. Maybe a .5 inch of space between the tire and the fender. Learned a hard lesson right after the install. Went over a speed bump in my neighborhood like I "USED" to do with the old suspension and I crushed the oil pan and pan gasket. Made me sick as hell, but education is expensive. I *thought* I was driving slowly and carefully as I always do over the speed bumps. Well that train of thought has been totally adjusted. It clears as long as I go very slowly. I have factory side pipes on a non side pipe car and there were no issues with clearance. But the pipes are restrictive and too loud for my taste. I can adjust the ride height easy enough, but there goes the cool stance if I do that. One repeating complaint is that the Hooker Super Comps seem to hang really low. But according to my research on this forum and others, there's no issues with fit and clearance of the chasis, steeriods and most importantly my angle plug heads.
Thanks.
Thanks for the info. I think I'm gonna go with the standard painted Hooker S/C headers. That way it will allow my exhaust guy to manipulate them all he wants without having to get them re-coated. Then when everything is perfect and I've adjusted my driving so I don't scrape the hell out of them, I'll take them off and send them out to get JetHot coated.
Hi Gkull,
Man those look sharp! I'm in flat black territory until I get a few thousand *learning* miles on them. I also have a feeling that my exhaust guy is going to have his way with them as well. I purchased the Stage 8 nickel plated header bolts. I've used them in the past with a lot of success. I like the stud idea and never really thought about it until you mentioned studs in this thread. I guess I'm stuck in my ways. Those primaries are huge! The factory side pipe primaries on my vette are tiny as hell. I think my motor has been smothered. I'm looking forward to seeing what my motor can do with a freed up exhaust system.
With 1 3/4 inch pipes you don't have much room for bolts or big heads. In fact you will have a heck of time putting them in on a couple of cylinders. the last thing you want to do is strip out aluminum head exhaust threads. That is why the 5/16 nuts. then a dab of high temp red silicone and they never come off
This is my old 427 small block that later broke the crank shaft.
Gkull,
With that photo I see the advantage of the studs. But I must point out my second favorite thing about the Stage 8 header bolts(the first being that they don't back out). They have an ingenious hex indention in the top of each bolt. It's hard to f*** up an allen head bolt. Plus the allen wrenches are small and easy to apply leverage in tight places. My next build I will try the studs. A good idea. By the way, that 427 Motown is sick as hell. I looked at the pics of the broken crank . Was that a World Products Motor? I bet that thing was fun as hell before you broke it!! Holy crap what a cool motor.
The Bill Mitchel motors even at the 600 hp level are really built crappy to maximize profits. Poor quality control and morons making minimum wages putting them together. That is why the cranks get broken. My 434 is a real quality racing motor.
Look at the pipes on the passenger side. They cover the flange bolt holes
Gkull,
I think I'm missing something. The only photo I see with the headers mounted are on the driver's side.
I had no idea that the Bill Mitchel motors were built like that. Who built your 434?
The original 427 long block arrived with a dyno sheet just like they said. You could not rotate the motor because every rod hit the cam lobes. So how did they get the dyno sheet? A copy machine! Right. So it was a fight from day one. after dissassembly and rod clearancing, it was just one thing after another. The cheap pot metal Comp Cams Exteme solid roller ate away the fuel pump cam filling the motor with metal flakes. The balance job was done wrong with all the lightening holes in the rear throw which ultimately led to it breaking. Right on the crank manufacturing site it gave balancing instructions and they did the short cut balance to save labor hours. They screwed me good.