1981 Rear Gears
I've heard all sorts of things about the batwing rear end and aluminum diff, but I'm not sure what to believe. I've heard that there are all kinds of gears available, but I've also heard that there's nothing, so I don't know what to believe.
This car will never run more than 400 horse, and if it does, it'll be far, FAR down the road, so I'm not too concerned with big power tearing the rear end to shreds.
So what's out there, where should I look, and what is anybody else with the batwing doing?
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; Jul 12, 2009 at 05:19 AM.
soon, the 700R4 started slippin', and it reverted to inconsistent 15.80s/16.20s, but the anemic gearing of the '81/'82 Corvettes kill their 1/4-mile performance

I believe the Dana-44 IRS is weak, but if you are not putting sticky-streets/slicks on the car, and keeping an automatic behind the motor to cushion the shock, it 'should' survive on OEM-style, rock-hard BFG Radial T/A or Goodyear Eagle GT equivalent.
A Forum-member named 'jamiejamison' (I believe), who rarely posts here, has an '80 with a warmed ZZ4 that he races weekly at Palm Beach International Raceway, towing a small trailer behind him to/from the strip, carrying his slicks & tools:
his car regularly runs 12s, then he drives it home on his street-tires, so he might have some ideas if you contact him
(Red 69 might have his contact info & some pictures)
my '82 now runs very-low 14s/squeaks into the 13s on BFG R-T/A, and I have had no rear-end problems (yet)
Just out of curiosity, what's the tallest gear that will fit in a Dana 44? I like the idea of a 3:55, but I could even go a bit taller, as this car doesn't see much in the terms of highway driving, and gas mileage isn't really an issue, as I have another daily driver.
So where can I get a good set of gears for it? How hard is the install, or should this be something I have professionally done?
when I was in the market for my gears in '03, I was told that ZIP Products offered 3.90 or 4.11 gear-sets that fit the original '80-'82 carrier, but when repeated e-mail requests to them went unanswered, I settled for 3.73s (I believe they are Precision Gear) from a place on Long Island that is no-longer in-bidness for $135, including S&H, and I've had no complaints to-date:
I had mine installed by a friend/Corvette-specialist who's owned, restored, & drag-raced several C2/C3, and I think I paid about $400 for his services, including swapping both speedo-gears.
We don't drive our '82 much, and rarely on the Interstate/highways, so I believe I could have gone for 4.11s, simply because I prefer lotsa gear & drag-race the car a few times a year:
with the 3.06:1 First Gear of the 700R4 & 3.73s, I've gone 1.99x in 60' deep-staged, which kills performance.
can't beat the seat-of-the-pants kick from deep-gears!

The 80-82 rear has some issues.
1) Aluminum caps are not as stong as steel caps of earlier years. You may be able to get this modified to allow steel caps if your 1/4 launching. I didnt know about this until after I did the job.
2) Soft diffferential cross pin. Designed by GM to minimize noise, therefore is prone to wear. You are almost guaranteed to have wear on this and replacements are becoming scarce I understand. $$
3) Along with soft cross pin are soft side yokes, designed to minimize noise. Good chance these are worn to the point that you'll have mushroomed ends and may not be able to pull them out with firing up an angle grinder and going to town on the ends to try to remove them. This means youll be buying new side yokes as well $$
4) Dana gears sets are out of production so youll be lucky to find a set of NOS from somebody hoarding them or you'll have to go to Richmond or equiv which are prone to noise.
The beefed up alternative is to get an iron rear and set up the halfshafts and trailing arm spindles to mate up to this. $$$$$$
Oh yeah, while your at it, since your torn down this far, you should also get your trailing arms rebuilt, U-joints replaced, and use new service cap screws for the U-joint straps since the originals are probably rounded. Use a 12point 1/4 inch Crafstman deep socket on these originals and prey like hell you dont strip them. The replacements will be 6 point hex head. Hopefully your TA frame bolt is nice and clean or its time to break out the sawzall.















