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1/10 is .100" which is justunder 1/8" which is too much play. The rule of thumb I used is .080" max but if you have things apart then why not save yourself time and either repair or replace them. Can you still see the chamfer on the end? If not then the case hardness is probably gone. Also I heard here that the original 77-79 yokes were softer then the older ones and quickly were worn down. Did you check the oil for metal?
Gary
GM's yoke supplier from 76 to 79 did NOT heat treat the ends of the yokes,so with a little wear they start hitting,beating on each other,mushrooming the ends.
Check the pinion shaft while you are in there.... the yokes ride on it and it will wear as well. The yokes don't "touch in the middle", they ride on the pinion shaft. The best I've ever been able to get new yokes & shaft to set up is at .008 to .010.
Adjusting the carrier left/right for pinion/ring gear setup affects the yoke end clearance... when the carrier moves, so does the pinion shaft. There has to be some clearance to allow carrier adjustment without causing yoke bind.
This is why there is no published spec for this... as the carrier is adjusted, the yoke clearance will change. Some guys add metal to the yokes to get near zero endplay, some guys run without the clips .... this is one of those "gray" areas.
Norval and I have had some discussions on running without the side clips on the yokes. What are the benefits and/or side effects of running without them. I can see that you would lose the effect of the halfshaft being your upper control arm(this would affect camber change through suspension travel) but is there anything else? I think the suspension would feel more loose than with the clips installed.
My buddies pinion shaft looks a-okay unlike mine did when I had it apart. Mine was all blue/purple and pretty burred, installed a new one and all is fine. I guess some moron pre owner didn't fill it up with enough fluid
Without a upper strut rod or 6 link you can not run without the clips. If you run a 6 link and run clips the suspension will bind. Lying under the car with the 6 link installed , the 1/2 shafts in place and no clips and moving the suspension through it's full travel you should see how much the yoke moves in and out of the rearend. Probably 1/4 inch. If the clips were still in place with the upper strut rod the whole thing would go into bind.
Using a magnetic protractor the protractor stays to zero. I never tried this with the half shaft and clips installed and no upper strut rod. It would be interesting to see how much it changed. Using the 1/2 shaft as a upper rod it would have to change alot.
If this clip would fail while in operation wouldn't the wheel flop over in the wheel well? Also if you have 1/10 of an inch play at the center of the wheel and the bottom of the wheel fixed with a strut rod wouldn't the top of the wheel have alot of play?
The wheel would pivot around the lower strut rod and because of the distance to the top of the wheel this 1/10 would magnify it's self considerably.
Don't forget that your C-clips rest against the side of your large spider gears...your large spider gears in turn rest or push against the sides of your posi-clutch pack, as the clutches wear you will have more clearance to take up...which you'll see in the end play of your side axle yoke.
Normally one would not run without the C-clip unless they had installed a six-link set-up on the rear-end, otherwise there would be nothing to hold the axle in place. This would allow the swing-arm to move sideways and you'd lose your alignment...infact the top of the tire could move out far enough to hit the body. Deen :eek:
I tend to favor using the clips... but as we will probably see when everyone wakes up and gets on the forum today.... there will be a pi$$ing contest on this issue. So I'm staying out of it. :)
Norval, I'm not trying to **** you off, I just want to find out if you can run without clips, as per our email discussion from a few weeks back. I am not suggesting running without them, I know it will screw up the alignment on the car. I also know it is not suggested to run without them, I am just wondering about what these people think the benefits are, I see it as a detriment to run without them. AS I said before I might be running without one on one side due to the wear on the end of the yoke.
Come visit me this summer and we'll run an experiment with my car, we'll pull the clips and check the aligment(camber change versus suspension travel) take it out for a ride and check it out that way.
I'm not against you Norval, I'm with you, I am just trying to find out how bad it is to run without a c-clip since I might possibly be in that situation.
Without a six link you can NOT run without c clips. Nothing would be holding the 1/2 shaft on. The top of the tire would flop out into the body work.
As for running with clips on a 6 link ? This would not work for now the 1/2 shafts want to move in and out as the suspension moves. The upper strut rod now controls the movement of the top of the wheel. I could easily prove this lying under my car with the 6 link installed and watch the 1/2 shaft moving in and out as the suspension is moved through it's travel.
I ground the ends off my yokes right back to the grove to prevent any binding in the suspension.
You got me there Norval, during extreme suspension compression the wheels would flop out possibly onto the body work.
As for the 6 link, of course you couldn't run with the clips installed, the suspension would bind during travel, possibly causing some very expensive parts to break.
I still say we test this theory out this summer, compare the stock suspension, stock without clips, and your 6 link, and post the results.