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I read all the threads about cutting coil springs to lower ride height, and finally got around to doing it. The upper ball joint was easier to "pop" than the lower, so that is the path I went to get the spring out.
So now the spring is cut and I'm in the re-assembly phase, but how do I get the upper ball joint pressed back together? Special tool required?
Floor jack under that lower control arm? This is how I got things re-assembled to this point, but it looks like I need to close up the upper ball joint another 3/8" inch. Further jacking is just lifting the car off the jackstands.
Most threads just say "re-assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly".
Piece of chain/rope and a couple of stout hooks, or S hooks, from front/weight end of jack axle to the frame somewhere...maybe you can use rope for that amount....
OR maybe move the jack to the car axle with a wood block...say two 4x4 layed over on side....
You will likely need to rent or borrow a spring compressor for that last little bit.If you think it is tough now,try this on a bare frame,without the weight of the body and engine to help!
Are you sure the spring is seated in the upper spring pocket? The upper pocket is angled so you have to nudge the spring over a bit as it is being raised. You should be able to see the end of the spring covering ~1/2 of the small hole in the upper pocket if the spring is in correctly.
Are you sure the spring is seated in the upper spring pocket? The upper pocket is angled so you have to nudge the spring over a bit as it is being raised. You should be able to see the end of the spring covering ~1/2 of the small hole in the upper pocket if the spring is in correctly.
Quick question.... when you cut the front spring to drop the car an inch like so many do - doesn't it create a problem trying to get the upper AND/OR lower sockets to line up ?? Or do you take exactly 1 turn off it to keep the ends in the same place?
Quick question.... when you cut the front spring to drop the car an inch like so many do - doesn't it create a problem trying to get the upper AND/OR lower sockets to line up ?? Or do you take exactly 1 turn off it to keep the ends in the same place?
-W
Mrvette - sorry, I don't really follow what you are describing.
Others - I rented a spring compressor, but it was not the type pictured on threads here (from Autozone), not internal to the spring but external, and would not fit (bolts too long, no room between CAs).
72lsivette - I *think* I got it seated, but didn't know you could visually check. I taped off 2 spots before removal and got the "close". But maybe "exact" is what is needed? Following older thread input I put a bolt in the "peep" hole to know when to stop turning the spring. I'll re-investigate this.
Clams - From other threads and Guldstrands' advice, the top needs to line up, but the bottom does not. Others only cut in complete coils, I cut 1.5 coil...I'll let you know how it goes - if I ever get it put back together!
Quick question.... when you cut the front spring to drop the car an inch like so many do - doesn't it create a problem trying to get the upper AND/OR lower sockets to line up ?? Or do you take exactly 1 turn off it to keep the ends in the same place?
-W
I don't remember if the stock spring lined up on both top and bottom, but the assembly manual only specifies the alignment at the top and doesn't mantion anything abouot the bottom. When I installed the VB&P 550# springs I aligned them in the top pocket and the car is sitting nice and level.
Mrvette - sorry, I don't really follow what you are describing.
Others - I rented a spring compressor, but it was not the type pictured on threads here (from Autozone), not internal to the spring but external, and would not fit (bolts too long, no room between CAs).
72lsivette - I *think* I got it seated, but didn't know you could visually check. I taped off 2 spots before removal and got the "close". But maybe "exact" is what is needed? Following older thread input I put a bolt in the "peep" hole to know when to stop turning the spring. I'll re-investigate this.
Clams - From other threads and Guldstrands' advice, the top needs to line up, but the bottom does not. Others only cut in complete coils, I cut 1.5 coil...I'll let you know how it goes - if I ever get it put back together!
Great input, thanks for the feedback.
Sounds like Autozone gave you a strut compressor instead of a spring compressor. You need the internal spring compressor that has 1 screw and 2 arms attached to it. You can take it apart, put one of the arms inside the spring, and thread the screw into it from the top shock mount hole.
I put a small screwdriver into the hole in the upper pocket and butt the end of the spring up to it so that you can see the end of the spring. I found that the spring can twist a bit when it's being raised so I checked the alignment a few times and re-positioned as necessary while the spring could still be moved.
I don't remember if the stock spring lined up on both top and bottom, but the assembly manual only specifies the alignment at the top and doesn't mantion anything abouot the bottom. When I installed the VB&P 550# springs I aligned them in the top pocket and the car is sitting nice and level. Rick B.
I was thinking of some recent post that was discussing a drain hole at the bottom that needs to by at most 1/2 covered. No matter, I won't get to the front for months yet.
-W (just got the pumpkin out this AM)
Last edited by Clams Canino; Jul 20, 2009 at 11:18 AM.
Sounds like Autozone gave you a strut compressor instead of a spring compressor. You need the internal spring compressor that has 1 screw and 2 arms attached to it. You can take it apart, put one of the arms inside the spring, and thread the screw into it from the top shock mount hole.
I put a small screwdriver into the hole in the upper pocket and butt the end of the spring up to it so that you can see the end of the spring. I found that the spring can twist a bit when it's being raised so I checked the alignment a few times and re-positioned as necessary while the spring could still be moved.
Rick B.
Yep, you're exactly right! Thanks for the info...I took back the wrong spring compressor and got one that fits inside the spring (they called it a coil-over spring compressor). We'll see if this one works better, but it can't work any worse.
My spring definitely twisted alot, maybe 1/3 of a turn, during compression, so pre-compressing it then putting into the pocket is sounding smart. I'll try to get to it real soon.
Thanks!
Progress update and potentially stupid question...
the "coil-over" spring compressor was not what has been pictured on this forum. It is on one end, but the other end is like a 2-pronged big fork. This worked for compressing my spring, but only after pressing it against the upper control arm. So I could compress the spring and get things put back together, but the spring couldn't be freely rotated within it's space. I think it was seated pretty close to the pocket up top, so I decided to go for it.
Now my potentially stupid question...I did one side (cut the spring 1.5 coils) and re-assembled. Is it ok/safe to take it for a short drive to let things settle out with one side lowered but not the other? I want to "shake things out" to see if 1.5 coils was enough, whether I hit the pocket or not, etc. before doing all this for the other side.
Here is a pic of a proper spring compressor installed.
The tighter wound part goes to the top pocket.
If you use the bolt as a stop, it automatically seats itself properly in the top pocket.
The nut on the screw of the spring compressor can be unscrewed thru the lower a frame shock mount hole once the ball joint is bolted securely. I use an impact gun to unscrew. Make sure the threads of the tool are lubed well and in good shape.
You can drive it with only one side done, but it probably won't sit the same as if both sides were changed.