Plugs and wires
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
Plugs and wires
The 81 is running a little rough. I don't know how long it's been since the wire and plugs have been changed having bought the car a year or so ago.
It used to be an easy job till I severely injured my back.
I have a friend across the street that does minor repairs for me and his knowledge level with cars is about the same as mine.
My 81 is almost 100% stock except for a chrome 85 amp alt.
To keep the car stock what wire set and what plugs would be best for my 81. I'm not a big modifier or mechanic like most of you.
Since i was 16 i have fixed everything on every car I've owned except an auto trans or an engine rebuild.
The car is almost perfect in every way and that's why I don't want to do a custom distributer, wires and plugs.
Thanks from a guy that just figures stuff out and not a mechanic.
It used to be an easy job till I severely injured my back.
I have a friend across the street that does minor repairs for me and his knowledge level with cars is about the same as mine.
My 81 is almost 100% stock except for a chrome 85 amp alt.
To keep the car stock what wire set and what plugs would be best for my 81. I'm not a big modifier or mechanic like most of you.
Since i was 16 i have fixed everything on every car I've owned except an auto trans or an engine rebuild.
The car is almost perfect in every way and that's why I don't want to do a custom distributer, wires and plugs.
Thanks from a guy that just figures stuff out and not a mechanic.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 3
From: Charlotte North Carolina 704-394-5150
You can get these parts at your local GM dealer. Really look at your distributor car and rotor like what was mentioned in the above post.
When you helper is installing these wires he will have to remove the "hockey stick" looking spark plug wire shields that located on each side of the engine block. A 9/16" swivel socket will be needed to remove the bolt that secures the shield to the motor mount.
A 7/16" wrench or socket will be needed to remove or loosen the bolt that holds the bracket from the "hockey stick" shield to the engine block.
When he is removing the front four wires. Cylinders 1,2,3,4. The spark plug wires are routed BETWEEN the motor mount and the ENGINE BLOCK. A very easy way of removing them is to pull off the spark plug boot from the old wires and pull then out carefully. When installing the new wires, I make sure that the correct ( or very close to same length) wire is found for the cylinder that I want. I CAREFULLY slide a BLUNT POINTED tool inbetween the spark plug boot and the wire and slide it around the wire to aid in releasing the rubber from the wire and makes pulling off the boot easier. I pull off the spark plug boot CAREFULLY, ( and had never had the clip end come off the wire).
I now take the wires(s) for each side and mark them so I know which clyinder is which with masking tape where it connects to the distributor cap. With the boots off (only the spark plug end, NOT the dist cap end), I slide the wire through the area between the motor mount and the block and pull it down enough so I can re-isnstall the boot. I sometimes use some die-electric silicone grease to aid in the wire sliding back into the boot easier. I also but a small dab on the inside of the boot where it goes onto the spark plug. This is so it will be easier to remove the spartk plug boot where it attaches to the spark plug in the future. I clip it to the spark plug and do the next wire. I begin routing these wires as required. There should be a small clip at the oil pan that holds the wires when the "hockey stick shield is being installed (if still factory correct). Re-install the "hockey stick shield and connect the wires to the distributor cap and finish out the other wires and your done.
On the right side you may have to drop the starter to allow the shield to be removed. If you do. make sure that you disconnect your negative battery cable at the battery so you do not get sparks due to the positive battery cable is running to it. make sure that care is taken when re-installing the shields because they can cut or pinch the wire(s) if you are not careful.
I do these quite often and can take about 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Try to make sure that cylinder numer 5 and 7 are on opposite ends of the rubber grommet that is located at the back of the drivers side of the engine. Do not "zip tie" your wires together. They must stay sepreate from each other AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. Especially #5 and #7 due to they fire next to each other in the firing order.
"DUB"
When you helper is installing these wires he will have to remove the "hockey stick" looking spark plug wire shields that located on each side of the engine block. A 9/16" swivel socket will be needed to remove the bolt that secures the shield to the motor mount.
A 7/16" wrench or socket will be needed to remove or loosen the bolt that holds the bracket from the "hockey stick" shield to the engine block.
When he is removing the front four wires. Cylinders 1,2,3,4. The spark plug wires are routed BETWEEN the motor mount and the ENGINE BLOCK. A very easy way of removing them is to pull off the spark plug boot from the old wires and pull then out carefully. When installing the new wires, I make sure that the correct ( or very close to same length) wire is found for the cylinder that I want. I CAREFULLY slide a BLUNT POINTED tool inbetween the spark plug boot and the wire and slide it around the wire to aid in releasing the rubber from the wire and makes pulling off the boot easier. I pull off the spark plug boot CAREFULLY, ( and had never had the clip end come off the wire).
I now take the wires(s) for each side and mark them so I know which clyinder is which with masking tape where it connects to the distributor cap. With the boots off (only the spark plug end, NOT the dist cap end), I slide the wire through the area between the motor mount and the block and pull it down enough so I can re-isnstall the boot. I sometimes use some die-electric silicone grease to aid in the wire sliding back into the boot easier. I also but a small dab on the inside of the boot where it goes onto the spark plug. This is so it will be easier to remove the spartk plug boot where it attaches to the spark plug in the future. I clip it to the spark plug and do the next wire. I begin routing these wires as required. There should be a small clip at the oil pan that holds the wires when the "hockey stick shield is being installed (if still factory correct). Re-install the "hockey stick shield and connect the wires to the distributor cap and finish out the other wires and your done.
On the right side you may have to drop the starter to allow the shield to be removed. If you do. make sure that you disconnect your negative battery cable at the battery so you do not get sparks due to the positive battery cable is running to it. make sure that care is taken when re-installing the shields because they can cut or pinch the wire(s) if you are not careful.
I do these quite often and can take about 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Try to make sure that cylinder numer 5 and 7 are on opposite ends of the rubber grommet that is located at the back of the drivers side of the engine. Do not "zip tie" your wires together. They must stay sepreate from each other AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. Especially #5 and #7 due to they fire next to each other in the firing order.
"DUB"
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,144
Likes: 195
From: Englewood FL
I did this job this spring on a 1979 and 1980 and found doing a
few things makes the job a lot easier:
1. Raise the front of the car up and remove the front wheels. It
gives much easier access to the front two plug wires on both sides
by reaching your hand thru the flaps that cover the a arms.
2. To push the wires thru the wire guides in the motor mounts it
is easier to start from the spark plug side. Remove the plug boot
on the distributor side of the wires and thread them from the spark
plug side. If needed you can rotate the wire guides on the motor
mounts by loosening the bolt on top of it. I found I had to do this
to get the wire to push thru on some cars. I reached thru the
a arm area with a box end wrench to loosen the bolt.
3. Remove the starter. I had to do this in order to remove the
boomerang shaped wire covers. Without the starter in the way
it is a lot easier to gain access to the right side heat shield and
number 6 and 8 spark plugs and wires.
few things makes the job a lot easier:
1. Raise the front of the car up and remove the front wheels. It
gives much easier access to the front two plug wires on both sides
by reaching your hand thru the flaps that cover the a arms.
2. To push the wires thru the wire guides in the motor mounts it
is easier to start from the spark plug side. Remove the plug boot
on the distributor side of the wires and thread them from the spark
plug side. If needed you can rotate the wire guides on the motor
mounts by loosening the bolt on top of it. I found I had to do this
to get the wire to push thru on some cars. I reached thru the
a arm area with a box end wrench to loosen the bolt.
3. Remove the starter. I had to do this in order to remove the
boomerang shaped wire covers. Without the starter in the way
it is a lot easier to gain access to the right side heat shield and
number 6 and 8 spark plugs and wires.
