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Let me make sure I understand your post properly: Starting the engine cold works fine. Starting the engine warm with the key doesn't work, but if you leave the key in the "on" position and jump from the battery to the starter motor, it starts right up. Correct?
If so, you can eliminate your battery and your starter motor as the problem, which means you have a poor connection somewhere in the system.
I had a similar problem when I brought my car home last year, started great when cold, but when hot, the starter would barely turn the engine over. Mine turned out to be some boogered up connections on my solenoid. I replaced the solenoid and (knock wood) I haven't had any trouble starting the car since.
Heat soak can play a role, and there is nothing wrong with putting a heat shield on your starter motor (I have one), but in this case, I doubt it will solve your problem since jumping the amperage to the starter works when the starter is hot.
Sounds like high resistance in the starter S wire. Check voltage at S when hot. If volts are low you will need to trouble shoot that circuit. Take volt readings before and after all switches and look for a drop. Ign switch, Saftey neutral switch, going thru firewall. Make sure there is good voltage going into ign switch, then move twords starter. If it is low going into ign check ign feed.
I'm having the same problem but with a '74 and 350 engine, but mine only does it if I've had the headlights burning and the motor is hot. If I cut the car off before I kill the lights it will not start (I don't just leave the lights on either.) Everything Else in the car works great and seems like the battery has plenty of juice but not enough to even make the starter engage. Also, jumping the vette with another car fixes it instantaneously. The only things I can think of are "heat sink" in the starter, or that the starter isn't grounding well when the engine is hot. Any other suggestions would be highly appreciated, I think I will try the starter insulator wrap.
Thanks,
Brad
Sorry it took so long. However it's taken forever to find the problem. I went down the check list, new battery ,new starter,hear shielding, timing, electronic ignition. You name it. I finally put an amp meter on the start solenoid lead to check the amps. When cold nice and high. When hot it dropped. Started stripping back wiring and found broken stains( about three inches from the firewall) in the lead runnnig from the starter to the ignition. Spliced the wire, that cured it. Hope this helps.
"I'm using the stock solenoid heat shield but I applied a layer of zero-clearance insulation on its surface, never got any problem since then even in 100F+ weather."
Excellent heat barrier product and a great idea. Plus it keeps the stock OEM heat shield in place.
First thing first, there is NO heat soak condition on a starter. Slow cranking on a warm/hot engine is largely attributed to a bad ground. Starter shields are placed on some starters but not all of them. What the shields do is protect the bakelite switch and wiring from the heat of the engine and does nothing to curb heat to the actual starter. Two things may help in the future is a stronger battery with the highest cranking amps available to fit the box. And there are two styles of starter cases,a HD or high torque and a regular or low torque starter....That would be the incorrect starter and to avoid the LD starter to prevent cranking issues for good
I read something the other day about this issue. It stated that GM used wire that was not of the proper guage. It couldn't handle the power required for the starting system. Never heard that before, but it does make sense, due to all the early GM vehicles having the same issue. Even my 78 GMC Vandura.