Yet another Half Shaft install question
I pulled out both of my half shafts the other night and played it safe by bringing them to the Drive shaft shop and let them dismantle and install the new joints. Here is where the fun stopped. One of the guys at the shop said that one of the u-joint caps looked like it had some wear like it may have rotated in the yoke. He suggested getting a new saddle clamp and that may stop any rotation.
I stopped at the Chevy dealer and he looked up the part but said it no longer exists, it is on his screen but no part number still exists.
Here is my question, on the drivers side yoke there are two clamps that use nuts to attach the Ujoint to the yoke, almost like a muffler clamp part.
On the pass side there are two saddle block type pieces that use 5/8 bolts to hold the U joints to the yoke. Can I use the loop type clamps in place of the blocks on the pass side? Is this a Bubaerized prior repair I am coming across?
ps is it 75 ft # at flange side and 15 ft# the yokes for torque.
Thanks for your patience
Bill in RI


the u-bolt where l48 and the block caps where heavy-duty like 4-speed cars i do beleave.
i have an 1980 l48 and it has an auto and it has u-bolt style caps wish i had the block caps on mine there stronger.
i would say you can not switch to u-bolts on a shaft setup for the heavy duty 5/8 caps.
i would take a look at the shaft myself and see the wear,post a picture of the problem and let us look at it for you.
ps sombody has put a diferent halfshaft in your car should be u-bolt keepers if it is an automatic transmission
mid-america has your cap
part # 612-548 click on the site i posted and go to part # and see if that is what you need.
As stated the 1/2 shaft flange was probably bent. They are still available, spicer makes them.
Check the shaft ends for dings and dents from being compressed in a vise.
The U joint pictured in the vendor link is not recommended, see the zerk fitting.
The joints and shafts are the same per side, if all else is ok leave the odd ball setup in the diff and correct the 1/2 shaft flange problem.
Removing these is best done by burning them out or cutting out with a grinder. Pressing is not easy and may damage the flange if not correctly supported. You can look up my thread on this job as well, it has a lot of pic's.
As stated the 1/2 shaft flange was probably bent. They are still available, spicer makes them.
Check the shaft ends for dings and dents from being compressed in a vise.
The U joint pictured in the vendor link is not recommended, see the zerk fitting.
The joints and shafts are the same per side, if all else is ok leave the odd ball setup in the diff and correct the 1/2 shaft flange problem.
Removing these is best done by burning them out or cutting out with a grinder. Pressing is not easy and may damage the flange if not correctly supported. You can look up my thread on this job as well, it has a lot of pic's.
I had my u-joints professionally installed on the flange end and then I installed the shafts myself. Any competent drive shaft shop can do this and it usually is very inexpensive. You can also purchase a full half-shaft setup ready to install if needed.
I am just going to button this puppy up and get some summer wind blowing in my face. Summer comes and goes way too quick up here in the Northeast. Now if it will ever stop raining for a day or two that would help too.
Thanks again for the help and the link for the cap
Bill in R.I.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts














