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I'm having some "issues" with clearance, for some reason, they seem to be too long on the left side of the engine, they are touching the steering rag joint. Its rubbing on the metal flanges of the rag joint, i was wondering if i could just file those down a bit, but would this make the joint weak to the point it may not be safe? they don't seem to be overly functional, just a bent up metal plate that alows it to flex. Any suggestions? Thanks :)
Be careful. You may not want to modify the headers just yet. I got 2 seperate sets of Dynomax headers from Jeg's, and both of them were wrong for the car. The first one had two left headers (duh!), and the second one had a left header that looked good, but the right one came out in a completely different location that was too high in the car to attach exhaust to. It's possible you have a wrong header. Just something you might want to consider before you put a dent in it.
Which Dynomax headers did you get? What is the primary size? I've heard a lot of good things about the $209 ceramic coated ones. Haven't heard of anyone having trouble, at least till now.
I had a slight clearance problem with mine. The problem was at the steering box itself. Ground a little from the side of the box and put a dimple in the header.
I had a slight clearance problem with mine. The problem was at the steering box itself. Ground a little from the side of the box and put a dimple in the header.
It seems that every car is slightly different.
I had the same problem, its in the rag-joint too, do you have the ceramic coated ones? Isn't it NOT good to bend or dent the ceramic? Have to get this done by sunday, it goes in to have the exhuast done on monday :confused:
I have the Dyno-Max Ceramic 1 5/8's. But, I don't know if there are any broblems yet because I have my heads off. That would REALLY **** my off when I go to put everything back together, and the headers don't fit. I hope I got the right ones.
If Dynomax headers has clearance problems, then I'm definitely inclined to get the Hedman headers. Just wish the Hedman's were coated inside too (just outside) coming from Jegs (that pushes header cost over $400). Jet-Hot will sell the same Hedmans for over $500 coated inside/out. Decisions, decisions...
I put mine on last weekend and the only area where it's tight is where a tube passes under the Z-bar for the clutch. It has a little clearance but I'm afraid that if the engine rocks it's going to hit. I might remove the Z-bar again this weekend and dimple the pipe a little where it passes under to get a little more clearance.
Make sure they are loose & see if you can move around for clearance. Would probably "adjust" it some, maybe w/ a file however would be better to see it. Have e-mailed Jim Shea, st. expert, this topic link.
Aaron-74
You could post your pic. again to make sure he has the right ones.
I'm not sure exactly what part of the flexible coupling is hitting your header tube. If you go to http://www.corvettefaq.com and look under Suspension and Steering there is a picture entitled Flex Coupling Pics. Most of the parts of the flex coupling are called out. I suspect that you might be refering to the Capturing Strap. Try to define the interference more clearly.
One other thing, the rubber coupling disc (called a wafer in the picture) does not like excessive heat. It obviously is going to be very close to the header pipes. You will have to keep an eye on that rubber part because it will deteriorate with time and temperature.
Ya, I have the ceramic coated headers. I used the ball end of a ball peen hammer. Put the ball end where you want to dimple and smack the other end with a small sledge. Works well and did not screw up the coating.
Also check motor mounts. Make sure the engine is not sitting cockeyed in the saddle. If it is, headers are more likely to have clearence problems. Good time to switch to poly eurathane mounts, when the manifolds are off.