Is there an adjustment for these doors...they hit fiberglass when they open and chipped paint. One sets 3/16 lower than fiberglass

 

The headlights may not be the culprit....Push down on the body, just above the headlight cover(when it's closed).If there's any play at all, that means that the body has separated from the cross piece underneath.If that's the case, it will have to be epoxy'd back down...That is the result of a slight nose hit into something.Hopefully that's not your problem, but that is one possibility.

 

Jeff...thats exactly what has happened....its seperated from the cross member.....what epoxy do i use and how so i do it?
Thanks

 

I use LORD FUSOR products in my shop that requires the use of a special applicator gun which can be expensive. You may want to call 3M and check with their TECH dept and ask for a product that bonds metal to SMC/fiberglass. Also ask if it bonds to bare metal or if the metal needs to be primed. There is a difference. Ask about the type of grit sandpaper that is also needed to be used. That makes a difference also when you are dealing with SMC (sheet molded compound) because there is a very thin plastic layer that is made into the part and it is better to lightly scuff this surface than it is to grind the heck out of it and remove this layer which was put there for a reason. Once again, it depends on the manufacturer and how they designed their product.

The problem that you may run into is making sure that the area you are bonding is CLEAN and prepped for the bonding adhesive.

This sometimes is a process all in itself. It depends on how long it is seperated and if the bonding adhesive let loose from the metal beam and is rusting or not. Also how much is seperated. I have had some that required a total removal of the headlights top make sure the body and support beam were prepped correctly.

Hope that this helps, and remember that it IS that 1/1,000,000" that makes all the difference in something bonding correctly for along time of falling apart in no time. Dust, dirt, grease, oil and moisture are your enemy when to comes to bonding something correctly.

"DUB"

 

Bogus !...That is something that I wouldn't do myself .The grandmaster tells it like it is.There are a lot of variables and some dis-assembly required.Get an estimate from a good body shop.It may not be as bad as you think.

 

Thanks jeff and grandmastercorvette....going to contact a body shop tomorrow. Thanks for the replys

 

There is no play just above the cover. It is also not loose.
See photo. How easy is it to remove the whole assy. to see if the unit is bent?

 

You would probably have been better starting a new thread for this, but I would try adjusting the door before removing the whole unit. I found this thread very useful when adjusting mine.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...alignment.html

 

ebay is good for pics. shows the 3 bolt holes across the back and 2 up front. no real adjustment to raise the whole assy in the car's body. but i think the pivots can be adjusted. most common is the metal bar coming detached from the glass body panel and dropping as said 13 years ago in post 2. https://www.ebay.com/itm/39133384382...Bk9SR7yb0e_bYA and a pretty good resto of the healitght assys. gives good view of the dis abd assembly i think the outer pivot point needs to move up towards the hood surround about a quarter inch or so. http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...t-restoration/

 

this is an earlier car. you don't have the rivets so no dimples to fix. but light assy bolts in the same way to a metal bracket bonded to the nose fiberglass in the same place. most likely the metal bracket is partially dislodged and hanging down a little. this whole bracket can be removed and cleaned up and reattached without removing the nose and flipping it over (or replaced with non-rusty new bracket with no 45 year old bolt threads) it is no fun. you may find it partially detached and can clean up between the gap as well as possible and JB Weld or similar epoxy and clamp it back where it belongs. don't double check it before glueing. 5 or 6ple check the fit. or you may find the bracket in good shape and still attached where it belongs in which case you start looking at the pivot bushings and their mounts to see if they can be adjusted upwards. obviously check for shims between headlight frame and headlight bracket.. we 73-82 have an advantage over the chrome bumper noses. the lower valance comes off. don't do this reaching through the air holes. give yourself enough room.

 

start a new thread after this attempt. people see an old thread date and don't bother with it. other people see they are reading about a 13 year old issue and and get irritated and leave the thread. and a guy who's avatar is the back of a black split window coupe is probly gonna lock this thread anyway.

 

I have the same problem. Trying to find a solution also.
Was told that the hood fiberglass might be loose from the frame and raised causing the headlight to show low. It isn't raised on mine. Check yours.
Might have to remove the whole assy. and check for damage.

 

The metal frame that the lights bolt to separates from the fiberglass hood surround and drops. Making the back of the light doors sit low. Essentially the same thing but you are viewing the problem backwards.