Hello, can anyone point me to a thread or discuss the potential of adding original OE style A/C to a non A/C early C3?

 

About all you need is a big box of original style parts and some time. I sugggest that unless you're really wanting a "Factory" looking installation, the aftermarket units from Classic Air, Vintage Air or Hot Rod Air are a much cleaner install. No big "lump" on the front of the forewall to limit access to the engine, better efficiency with new R-134 compatible compressor, condensers and evaporators.

Little bit off your question, sorry. I haven't seen any threads about someone installing a factory system other than the threads about one of the world's ugliest Corvette repair jobs- replacing the heater core/ Ranks right there with replacing trailing arms I think.

I think your best bet would be to find someone that's stripped all the factory stuff out of their car and went with no air/heat or installed aftermarket. Under the dash, there's a vacuum harness, ducts, cables and the control head- yours will be a little different from a no air car.
It can be done- may require some cutting/trimming of the hole in the firewall, and check your core support- the A/C lines run thru it on the right side, there should be a formed cutout in both the core suport and the inner fender just forward and above the right upper control arm where the condenser lines run. If it's not there, you'll need to cut/drill the core support too.

 

the only real problem is the recirculate feature for max cooling. there's no way to install the ducting that forces the air flow back into the cabin without separating the pass side cowl fiberglass. the a/c would operate in all functions except max. other than that, it's just a matter of removing the pass side dash, center console, removing the heater box, and installing the a/c parts. not an easy job, but can be done. but as posted earlier, an after market unit will cool better and be less trouble to install.

 

I would think the most difficult part would be to come up with the brackets and such.

Not that it is much help with how to retro-fit the non-AC vehicle with OE style AC. I did find a lot of good replacement AC parts for my 72 when I was fixing the AC here.

http://tinyurl.com/n9gmwf

This site did not have everything I needed to complete my repair job but the parts they did have saved me a lot of money.

Hope this helps.

 

Evidently the aftermarket A/C units run only recirculate.

Several have converted factory A/C to R-134 & are happy w/ it.

 

I put a Classic Air system in my 77. The kit is specifically for a 68 to 76- The control head is way, way different. I did a lot of modification to get it to move the cables correctly and switch on and off, but on a 95* day you'll be turning the fan down if not off. Don't need the heater right now so I don't know how good it is.

Ganey- you're correct recirc only, no outside air connection.

 

I have been told that the factory AC box on the firewall can't be removed, or installed with the engine in the car . So, do you want to pull your engine to put in factory AC? The other option is removing the front clip.

 

i pulled the evap case out without removing the engine , big block too...........its not easy but doable

 

Nope the T/A are worse. I did the heater core years ago.

One of the big catalog companies sells a "factory looking AC" kit that's not quite factory - but uses the factory controls etc. I think it was $1200 and it comes with instructions that presume a "one time only" owner is going to do the install.

-W

 

Hi 72 CR,
I agree that the factory installation would be a BIG and expensive job. I've noticed that the A/C option in the 71 AIM is 38 pages long. The electrical harness changes alone are mind numbing.
I think Clam's suggestion of a factory looking system is the way to go.
Regards,
Alan

 

I looked and it's Corvette Central that has one on Page 117 of thier C3 catalog. $1295 for small block - $1495 for big block. Don't know about the other guys, thatone just caught my eye last week.

-W

 

if you are real serious about this project call me and i will share my secret on how you can install the the vacuum door without separating the pass side cowl fiberglass. For real, it can be done with front end and even the engine in the car. Jan. 304-544-1956

 

72 corvette roadster:

Take a big heap of advice from the idiot that installed factory air on a 70 LT-1 Conv!

Really. . . And I mean really think this over! Then walk away!

Yes, you read correctly and I still own this car!

I did it, regret it and will remove it! There are some of you forum guys out there that are local and viewed this car and while it looks all AC’d up! I admit it, I’m the idiot. . . I’m a moron . . . why . . . because now I get to take all this off the car before I can finish it! This was by far my biggest mistake ever made on a Corvette!

I purchased this car in the late 1980’s and the car was not on the road for over 12 years before I purchased it. Some of you that viewed the CD or file on the windshield frame will recognize this yellow car as the 77k mile car used for this file. The car has not hit the road since 1977.

I have pictures . . . yes real Kodak pictures from 1992 when I got this bone headed idea. I can scan to show you what I did, but in a nut shell here I go.

You must remove the front end from the car to do a factory style conversion. You don’t have a choice if doing it factory! On a non air car there are two vents open on the driver side of the car, both were covered with a panel (number 4 and 5 in the picture colored blue) when the car was to have factory AC.

On the passenger side of the car you’ll find a special vent for AC cars that included a skeleton frame (number 1 in the picture and colored gray) that supported the abs plastic door and vacuum pod. This skeleton can not be installed with the front end on the car so you must remove it, fiberglass this in place and then re-install the front end.



Ok, next problem. You will need to remove the old heater box. Once you do this you will see the firewall pad and notice there is a perforation around the pad. This perforation was for installing the AC box on the car and is also the outline for the hole you’ll need to cut to install this new box. Yes, the box is larger and you will need to remove about 1” of fiberglass material. See picture below for details on how to cut this out.

18243

Next the reinforcement dash issue. You’ll need to round up some factory AC support rods for the dash.

Next you’ll need to figure the wiring out. The AC control harness was different from that of the non a/c cars.

While it may look simple you’ll have to modify the car in such a way that a normal person can not person can not reverse . . .

Other things that will need to be changed: Add condenser and brackets to the core support, change the heater control unit, change the shift plate, obtain all the AC ducts for the car and so on.

Ok. . . I’m done for now! Save your self some real trouble, either buy an ad on kit and install it, or look for a car with AC.

Anyone want to let me have it I understand! Anyone wants hands on lessons on how to reverse this. . . .Call my office and get directions. I’ll buy the beer! Thank god I saved everything I removed!

Willcox

 

DOOD! You did this post all wrong.
You should have offered to SELL him all that crap after you remove it - complete with installation instructions. Unethical? Hell no - he WANTS factory AC acording to the 1st post. So give it to him.

-W

 

Well I put factory A/C in my '73 about two years after I took delivery. That car is a sauna in the summer when it's raining and you have to have the window up. I stripped a wrecked '73 at D&H Corvette and got everything but the recirc stuff in the psgr side. Bought the upper door and actuator and mounted with a fabbed bracket. Left the manual vent door as is and just open it when I go to recirc.

Was it a tuff job? Yep. But there were no aftermarket kits back then other than the hang-on units.