ok but doesnt that other yellow wire just go to the washer pump?

 

You need to get the wiring like this! The yellow wire is switched voltage from the firewall fuse. The red/white wire is hot all the time.

Once you get this, then you need to tell me where the other wires are spliced from. The green and blue appear to be in the correct place. But, you have mixed systems and you'll need to try to get the wires as close to this schematic as possible. Then if you want the over-ride to work with the key on you can splice the yellow wire to the over-ride switch. Your green wire is the black/white stripe wire in the picture.

 

You have to remember, I’m guessing the dark blue wire is running to the tach solenoid, to the switch and then to the relay. I’m guessing the green wire is running to the relay.
I'm also guessing the yellow wire that is used to power up the motor is also running to the right parts. However, you’ll need to verify these things.

If the system is wired correct, i.e. relay, switch, switch grounded, solenoid, and so on. Then running the yellow wire I showed above should make the motor work with the switch. The motor is to be hot with the key on and only work when the ground circuit is completed by the switch.

So ping the wires, make sure you have 12 volts switched on the yellow wire, verify the by testing continuity the dark blue wire is making it back to the switch and so on. Once you do these things, you should be able to fix this with ease.

When you turn on the wipers do you hear the relay click inside the car? Is there a relay even wired in this system. Is the tach solenoid wired in to the system? Have you verified the wiper switch is grounded? Do you have switched 12 volts on they correct yellow wire (spliced in the red/white you will have it but constant)?

Willcox

 

I'm getting a headache.

 

Testing. . . We need more testing. . .

 

ok yes i have a tach solenoid, i have a wiper override switch(under dash) and i have the yellow middle wire spliced to go through the wiper door override switch, so that the wipers only run when the door is fully open. However, the motors turns on intermediate speed when the motor gets power, and wont stop.

 

This is my setup as of now
What does #10 and #11 do, and does the wiper s/w work off grounding the blue and green wires?

 

OK I'm going to jump in real quick to try and clear up something. When you say override switch I think you are referring to the wiper door limit switch under the hood. I believe when Ernie referred to the override switch he was referring to the black **** switch under the dash. Could be wrong
Also in post #6 I believe you said the wiper worked perfectly. I'm confused as to where we are going from here.
If they work good is the concern not being able to shut them down to change wipers ?

 

they did, until i tried to get the wiper door working in conjuncion with the wiper electrical. But i am positiv e that the limit switch and the override are working fine, i have tested them both. I have power on the light blue wire when the witch is off, but the key is on, and when the switch is on, we lost power on the light blue...

 

AC and Roger. . . I brought a wiper motor home to test and try to recreate your motor problem. I'm not sure I can do this tomorrow but I'll try, I'll be gone most of the day. However, I think I know what the problem is. . . I THINK. . . . Time today is just not on my side. Hang in there and I'll post this as soon as possible.

I missed something in your earlier post about the wiper door being present. I’m requesting a DO OVER! 1 allowed per month. You and I are getting confused on which switch is which. . . .

But in a nut shell. . .

The 1973 style motor will function with power to the yellow and operate off the two grounds 1 and 3 from my diagram. The power connection on the 1969-1972 motors is not on this motor and it picks up this same feed thru the center number 2 terminal. So the person that wired the car yellow to the red/white stripped wire was trying to keep the limit switch function with the newer style motor. I'm really not sure why there is a 73 and newer motor on this car, this would be easier if the motor were correct. But this is something that can be figured out.

The problem with this is the original style motor used two power supplies and the newer style only used one.

The limit switch connection is hot all the time unless the door is closed and this is controlled by the Limit Switch on the firewall. Power to this switch can be broken by turning the **** on the dash bypass switch at any time. But since I was under the impression you did not have the door present I felt it would be smarter to have switched voltage doing the work over having direct current to the center terminal. On the cars the yellow power was always switched voltage and this is what I was trying to get for you.

So this leads me to think there are two problems present and not just one! In my earlier post I instructed you to not use the red/white wire as a power source since this wire is hot all the time. . . You can use this wire and you can also use the dash by-pass switch in sequence. Doing this would allow you to keep the function of the bypass switch as well as the over-ride switch with the original wires. Again, I did not see where you answered Roger about the wiper door being present or not.

So, to keep the protection of the limit switch in sequence with the door and the motor I will retract my earlier comment stating to move the yellow wire. I’m sorry but with the wiper door this is probably the best way to wire this motor.

Now for testing sake! If you state the wiper motor runs all the time. Then let’s do this. . .

With your door open:

Remove ALL wires from the motor and run 12 volts direct to the center terminal. Did the motor run? Probably not! At least I hope not! If it did you have a motor problem.

Next run a ground from the engine to the wiper motor housing. Remember do not use any of the wires present already on the car. When this is done, run a new independent ground from the engine to the number 3 terminal in the schematic above. Does the motor run on high speed? I’ll bet it does.

Next run a ground from the number 3 terminal to the number 1 terminal. Does the motor run on low speed? I’ll bet it does.

Now we have confirmed the motor is working fine. Knowing this eliminates the wiper motor as the problem.

Now before you start plugging things in after this. Tell us what you have on which wire at the motor connector. Do you have 12 volts on any other wire besides the middle yellow wire?

Please, also verify that current is not present on the black ground wire coming to the motor case from the heater ground.

I really want you to test the motor with a hardwire test. . . This would eliminate the motor as the problem. I want you to test the wires at the connector and tell us what you have on what wire.

And I’m sorry, you can put the red/white stripe wires back to the dash over-ride switch.

Were going to figure this out so you test the wires and please post back.

Willcox

 

I have already done the test that you have on the website, to test a 68-72 wiper motor. The motor ran as it should, hi when there is 12v and lbl is grounded, then low when green is jumped with lt blue. I have constant power going to the middle yellow wire, all the time. When the key is on and the switch is off, the only power i have is on the light blue wire, and the yellow wire. When the switch is on low, high or pump, i lose power on the light blue wire

 

Ace sit tight!

I got home about an hour ago, and went to test the motor I have here. I grabed an old used motor and it is no good, I'm taking the tester back to the store tomorrow and I'll make sure the one I snag from the used core bin is a good one.

I'm going to solve this problem for you I think, I just want to verify some stuff. Give me until tomorrow evening and I should have everything I need.

Willcox

 

ok thank you

 

does it have something to do with the fact that the motor doesnt have a constant and switched voltage, only switched?

 

Ace,

When the motor runs, it is running on low speed all the time Yes. . . No? If the motor is running on low speed, the park switch is out of the motor. Today we wired up a motor to our tester, the only way we could make the motor keep running constantly was to remove the cover from it and watch the park lever. We then prevented the park lever from running and the motor ran in a low speed. Once we released the lever the motor shut off.

So what I think is going on here is a motor issue in the park switch.

The Power to the center Yellow wire can come from either the red/white stripe or it can come from the yellow you have running to the wiper motor. The yellow is fused voltage with only the key as a shut off. The red/white is a 12 volt hot all the time with a bypass switch installed inline.

On the old two power motor 69-72, the park system pics up current from the red/white wire and in 1973 this was re-routed to the yellow terminal. Basically the motors are the same except for this additional wire.

Remove the washer pump from the motor and when you turn the motor off see if the park lever stays in the upward position. If it is, the park switch is the problem and if not. . . We'll I'm lost!

Willcox

 

yes the motor constantly runs in low speed. When i remove the 3 prong connector and reconnect it, the motor parks then immediately starts to run at low speed. You were saying that on the 68-72 motors there is seperate voltage to park them motor. Would the fact that i have hot voltage going to the yellow wire make the wipers not park.
P.S When i did the test to see if the motor was good, when i removed the grounds from the prongs, the wipers parked??

 

Ace,

Take the cover off the motor. Power it up and watch it. See if the park lever is dropping down.



In the picture the switch is shown from the back side and upside down. The pawl where the arrow is pointing will drop down when you shut off the motor and grab the rotating lever. It will then pull it upward and shut off the wiper motor. With the cover off you will see this function.

The 69-72 motors powered up the park circuit on the red/white stripe wire but this has nothing to do with your problem. You are using either wire to power the motor and as I stated above, the only difference is the constant power coming from the red/white stripped wire.

Since you said it parks and then starts again, something weird is going on in the park circuit. If you remove the grounds (lt blue and the green wires), it is using the blower ground and the power from the yellow to park and stop. You said it starts up again when you plug back up, and when you remove these grounds in essence you are turning off the wiper switch. When you plug it back in you are basically turning it on.

Something I did not try today was to park a motor, and connected force the park pawl downward. But you should be able to see what is going on when you power up the motor with the cover off!

Now on the wiper connector wires!

If you remove the three wire connector you should not have any power on the lt. blue and the green wires.

If you are hooked up to the motor connector and the system switch is off you should have 0 volts on the lt. blue or green wires.

If you are in low speed you will have 1.0-1.2 volts on the green wire and .3 on the blue. If you are in high speed you should have 12 volts on the green wire and .1 on the blue.

I don’t know why the motor is not parking and it sound like it’s making an attempt. The relay in your car is still there and wired up I assume. If the wiring to the motor is correct, and with a relay system as you have is in place and working, this motor will function correctly. Even if you wire it independently with new wires and take out the relay this motor should still function just fine. You’re going to have to trust me on this one. . . I cooked a used motor today testing it trying to immolate your problem. The only way I could to this was to stop the operation of the park switch!

No one has asked this question but I’m going to! Why are you running the 73 and newer motor? Seems some of this wire splicing could have been eliminated by going with the correct motor for the car.

Willcox.

 

is it normal to have power on the light blue wire on the 3 prong connector when the key is on but the switch is off? As for having a 73 and above motor in a 70, well the PO must have put the wrong motor in, and since the wipers worked fine until I got the wiper door working, i didnt notice, until now.

 

No it is not normal! and this might be causing yoru park problem!..... There is just to much wiper stuff flying around in my head. . .I'm doing four different wiper motor problems right now. . . Three by email and this one.

I re-read everything and you did make the statement that the motor bench tested fine. . . Even down to parking. Is this correct? If so, this might be what is your problem too.


If you remove the three wire connector you should not have any power on the lt. blue and the green wires.

If you are hooked up to the motor connector and the system switch is off you should have 0 volts on the lt. blue or green wires.

Is the relay hooked up in the car? You really need to tear in to this car and check the rest of the wires.

Willcox

 

hmm ok well i will find out whats going on there and let you know. By the way, i really appreciate the help and advice.