Polishing the t-top/windshield frame?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
Polishing the t-top/windshield frame?
My t-top/windshield frame has fine scratches in it from normal use and I would like to try to get them out. Have any of you successfully done this. Can a good chrome polisher or buffer do this or does it need to be re-chromed or replaced. It doesn't look bad, I'm just picky.
-Thanks.
-Thanks.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 4,660
Likes: 3
From: South Central Louisiana
St. Jude Contributor
Re: Polishing the t-top/windshield frame? (t-rav)
The T piece is stainless steel. The ends (where your top latches) and the ends on the rear that rivet to the stainless are chrome. If the the chrome is pitted, like most pot metal pieces, it is hard to get it rechromed to perfect condition. The guy who did my rechroming also polished the stainless for me. I have no idea what he used.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,221
Likes: 118
From: Matthews NC
Re: Polishing the t-top/windshield frame? (t-rav)
I didn't attempt doing it myself, so I sent all my stainless to Paragon Products to polish. They did a great job but $$ !!
Robert
'70 350/350 4-speed coupe
'98 6-speed coupe
Robert
'70 350/350 4-speed coupe
'98 6-speed coupe
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,214
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande AZ
Re: Polishing the t-top/windshield frame? (t-rav)
I do all my own SS polishing. I haven't done the t-top piece yet as it would take quite a while to do. SS is very hard and is therefore more difficult than most metals to polish. You basically remove imperfections through sanding (and straightening if you have dents). I start with the finest paper that will remove the defects. Then work up to about 1500 with SS. Then move to the buffer (bench grinder with sewn wheel will work). I start with red rouge usually and then use a white 'coloring' compound on a soft wheel for the final. You can get the buffing stuff at Eastwood but I get mine locally in large bars. Alot of the sanding can be done with a DA if you be careful not to create waves. I usually end up doing the final 1500 by hand so that the 1500 scratches are in the same direction (seems like it makes it easier to buff).
That said, you run a high risk of destroying the part when the buff catches an edge. Or worse, the part can come around and get planted in your body. I left a small SS mouling stuck in the ceiling for years as a reminder to be careful and never start daydreaming during those boring hours of buffing. Also, you will be covered with crud that is not that easy to get off your body so cover everything you can - and wear a mask!
That said, you run a high risk of destroying the part when the buff catches an edge. Or worse, the part can come around and get planted in your body. I left a small SS mouling stuck in the ceiling for years as a reminder to be careful and never start daydreaming during those boring hours of buffing. Also, you will be covered with crud that is not that easy to get off your body so cover everything you can - and wear a mask!
