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Ok running 255/60s on 77 with original aluminum wheels and tires rub center of rear wheel well. Front suspension all new,instructions for lower ball joint say big headed bolt to front and has steering stop on lower control arm. Even tried grinding down wheel well and still rubs at full turn. My question is has any body fabricated a longer steering stop on control arm maybe drill a hole and use a bolt for a stop? Limiting the turning seems to be the only answer besides buying 2 more new tires which I don't want to do.
I have 255/50/17 on front, and I just drilled the center of the stops for a 3/8-16 bolt and stacked up some spacers under the head to pad it out a tad...about 1/2-3/4 inch or so,
About a bizillion years ago 1980 , I owned a 1979 stunning Factory black fully loaded factory spoiler equipped M-21, L-82 with GYMKAHANA suspension , and key option ...... factory 255 WLT EAGLE GT radials. When you got this set up from St Louis they DID significant grinding down of the wheel wells to make this all work. Car and Driver mentioned this in the road lest of this car also, how the wells were butchered inside to make the new 255's EAgles work. I forget now , but I think the FE7 may have sat lower anyway. Ad this to the super wide wheels ( hey that was wide back then) and GM found they rubbed several places. A diagonal cut ( big chunk was hacked off ) in front of the rocker molding. Then the inner fender lip was GROUND DOWN on the inside to allow the max turn. This is the way STUFF was done back then . Engineered it as it came down the line. Maybe some cars needed more than others ( trimming) , but mine was REALLY hacked away. I'm guessing this is happening to your virgin fenders that were only designed to work with a max tire of 225./70 ............. those were the days ....cool car.