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The 462624 heads are junk compared to a set of vortecs. The port technology on the vortecs is about 30 years newer, and the combustion chamber design is far superior.
I suggest not to invest in any of the older head designs, as better torque/power can be had with brand new castings for not much money.
Thanks again for the advice and links. As much as I would like to keep it "stock" I don't want to waste my time and money.
The Alum heads 10088113 look like a good deal but have angled plugs. Not sure that will work with my headers....and what intake fits this "88 and later" style head??
I like the Vortecs if I can poney up the $$$
I'm pulling the heads on Sat. The blocks been decked and it's supposed to have flat top Pistons. So it might be best to check all including deck heighth, static CR, etc before making a final selection.
Thanks again for the advice and links. As much as I would like to keep it "stock" I don't want to waste my time and money.
The Alum heads 10088113 look like a good deal but have angled plugs. Not sure that will work with my headers....and what intake fits this "88 and later" style head??
I like the Vortecs if I can poney up the $$$
I'm pulling the heads on Sat. The blocks been decked and it's supposed to have flat top Pistons. So it might be best to check all including deck heighth, static CR, etc before making a final selection.
The angle plugs work. Those heads are used in the ZZ4 and a ton of C3 corvettes have that installed with headers. Standard intake bolts up. Modern combustion chamber design. They are a bolt on upgrade.
The angle plugs work. Those heads are used in the ZZ4 and a ton of C3 corvettes have that installed with headers. Standard intake bolts up. Modern combustion chamber design. They are a bolt on upgrade.
OK, I'm sold...what about the springs? Looks like a better price w/o and pick the springs I need...less $$...or are the Manley springs worth it.?
I need some addtl input on my rebuild. I've found some Edelbrock Performer Alum heads. 2.02/1.60, 185 intake runners and 64cc comb chamb. My 350 has a stock bore and stroke with a 0.045 deck. I have the Lunati 60101 cam, 213/219, .454/.468 to install. I'm concerned that even with a std head gasket my DCR may be too high. What head gasket should I use for this Alum head and to get the right CR/DCR??
For performance, I wouldn't do anything to the engine until I replaced the 3.08's. Then I'd match your top-end to the rear-end. I think you'd be disappointed if you built everything for the 3.08's then finally decide the 3.08' need to go.
For performance, I wouldn't do anything to the engine until I replaced the 3.08's. Then I'd match your top-end to the rear-end. I think you'd be disappointed if you built everything for the 3.08's then finally decide the 3.08' need to go.
3.55's are nice all-around choice.
FWIW
With the cam choice he's made this will be a nice torque motor, I think it will work just fine with the 3.08's, and if he decides to change them later it will still work great for it's intended purpose.
Now I just ran the dynamic test again using .020" deck height instead of the .045" height and I got:
Static -9.83
Dynamic -9.27
Thats still OK for premium fuel, or you can go with the thick head gasket (.052" I think) to reduce compression.
Max dynamic compression to run on pump fuel is 8.5 to 1. This is if everything is perfect including .040 quench and aluminum heads. 8.2 to 1 DCR is a safe design goal with aluminum heads.
That deck height was checked twice with a dial micrometer on the #1 cylinder at TDC. It does sound high from what I've read...am I meas correctly?
Also, someone beat me to the Edelbrk heads...sold before I got there. Anyway, I've bought similar World Prod heads (not Alum) same valves but 67cc chambers and ported 170cc intake runners.
My cam card indicates 34.5 deg intake closing ABDC, and 108deg "above center line will make this cam 4deg advanced". So do you use those figures in the calc for torq/hp? And do I set the cam 4deg advanced??
That deck height was checked twice with a dial micrometer on the #1 cylinder at TDC. It does sound high from what I've read...am I meas correctly?
Also, someone beat me to the Edelbrk heads...sold before I got there. Anyway, I've bought similar World Prod heads (not Alum) same valves but 67cc chambers and ported 170cc intake runners.
My cam card indicates 34.5 deg intake closing ABDC, and 108deg "above center line will make this cam 4deg advanced". So do you use those figures in the calc for torq/hp? And do I set the cam 4deg advanced??
It's unusual - but not unheard of - to see this kind of deck. "Typical" - if there is such a thing in a production engine from the 60's - deck is .025. The typical measuring errors that affect accuracy are dirty deck/piston crown, engine not at TDC or the piston rocked in the bore.
The P/N for the World Products heads would help a lot - they make a bunch of different heads.
That advance is "ground in" to the cam, so it should be installed "straight up"
Thks for the feedback. When the engine was rebuilt in '04 the block was decked and flattop pistons intalled...so would expect a much lower deck height. Here is a pic...unless my timing mark is off, I'm sure this is TDC. Maybe I should bump the crank to see if I get some rise in the piston. No. 6 cylinder is also at top and meas close to same.??
Maybe a poor rebuild??
unless my timing mark is off, I'm sure this is TDC.
Ah, we find the problem The timing mark is virtually never exactly right for TDC. It's close enough for timing, but it's not close enough for a deck height measurement.
There are a couple of ways to go. First and most accurate is with a dial indicator if you've got one - ideally on a bridge.
Second is to cut a piece of scrap that will span the bore and allow you to use head bolts to secure it to the deck, and to weld (or epoxy) a nut to the center of it. Strap it to the engine, and turn the engine just off of TDC and put a bolt through the nut that contacts the piston. Turn the engine GENTLY until it stops against that bolt in both directions and carefully mark the balancer. Actual TDC is midway between those two marks. This is kinda hard to explain, but I bet there's a picture out there somewhere
I have a magnetic base dial indicator I can set on the deck and locate directly over the piston. Do I just rotate through TDC to find the highest point and then compare to the deck at that point??
BTW what vol do I use for the valve reliefs in the CR calc??
I'm guessing 3-6ccs.
And, the only number I have on the World heads is a casting # 1-037.
The seller says these are "angle plug steel heads IMCA".
Two ways to go on the valve reliefs. First is to figure -5 cc for each set of reliefs - so -10 for these. Second is to buy an el-cheapo graduated cylinder - these are a couple of bucks at the local photo place and may be available elsewhere. Clean the piston pretty well with brake cleaner - being careful not to leave junk in the bore - and carefully press modeling clay into one of the reliefs. Cut it flush with a razor blade and carefully remove the piece. Fill the graduated cylinder with water to a specific measure, then drop in the clay and note how much it changes - easy
Mmmm...with no P/N I'm not sure what to say. IMCA indicates they're PROBABLY World S/R or S/R Torquers which are "eh", about on par with the "camel hump" heads.
I have a magnetic base dial indicator I can set on the deck and locate directly over the piston. Do I just rotate through TDC to find the highest point and then compare to the deck at that point??
Yes to how to find TDC - for the deck measurement, it's kinda hard to get accurate readings this way as the dial indicator must be:
- Preloaded on the deck, as the piston will be lower.
- Perpendicular in all respects to the bore; this is hard...if it's at an angle, the measurement will be off. This is what a bridge does.
- Put on the piston along the centerline of the pin, as the piston will rock in the bore along the pin axis.