Bolt On Horsepower
I'm thinking a little ignition, no headers this year will wait till I put my rebuild in. KNN filter? any suggestions or should I just wait until I yank the boat anchor out of her?
Headers and free-flow exhaust will be your biggest power producer - no reason to wait unless you think you're going to go to angle-plug heads.
K&N is always a good idea. Ignition upgrades produce no additional power in the most common RPM range. Don't rule out the impact of a good tune!

Last edited by jb78L-82; Aug 16, 2009 at 07:03 AM.
As a teenager I bought a 307 short block for about $50 to put in a second car for an economy work car. There were a lot of witnesses & I was offered the stock 2 bl. intake for $5. so I took it. Evidently some got the idea I was going to run it!
So on the 307 test drive, I ran across a GTO that was accustomed to being beat by my Hot Rod. Seeing his opportunity to win, he went for it. Blew him away again. He was shocked
but that's what he deserved- GTO picking on what he thought was a stock 2 bl. 307! He was a good sport to keep racing & losing, but he sold the GTO after that. I never ran sto*k (a bad word to me) & did not own a 2bl. (that heavy 2bl. intake worked to prop a garage door open) so a 4 bl. that didn't miss a beat at high rpm, a solid lifter cam
& 3 spd. Hurst were installed. This was a budget work car so I used what I had (no extra headers). What I called supertuning- advanced timing, recurved dist., good spark plug wires, etc. goes w/o saying.Supertuning.
Low restriction mufflers & cat. http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/ganeyexhaust.htm
Cam as L-48 badly needs more cam.
I've used these exclusively for a long time, and on a 360HP 355 I saw a 14" x 4" add 4 HP over a 14" x 4" paper filter.
I hear filtration quality concerns as well - but I ran a paper sheet inside both a K&N and a quality paper filter for 3 months each and found the K&N to be pretty much perfect.
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Shorty headers generally offer litte to no power increase over the "Rams Horn" style exhaust manifolds, but give a slight bump with the "Iron Log" style exhaust manifolds.
2 I have a friend who is really into oil & oil analysis (also racing engines) "in oil analysis usually with a K&N the Fe "iron" and Si "dirt" is elevated" & "if a guy oils them up enough to filter really well, lost airflow is the result." He is not the only one who doesn't like the oil analysis results.
You may need to think about this. In general if power is increased by switching to a K&N (which can be less restrictive) then some tuning should result in the same or more power assuming the filter size is appropriate & no other restrictions.

Shorty headers generally offer litte to no power increase over the "Rams Horn" style exhaust manifolds, but give a slight bump with the "Iron Log" style exhaust manifolds.
I'll note in passing this conflicts with every dyno test I've ever seen - including my own. We could split hairs and note that below 2500 RPM there's maybe a break-even at best, but 2500 on up (I would call anything between 2500 - 4500 "midrange") long-tube headers will beat any stock manifold or shorty header. Certainly you can have a too-large header diameter which leads to poor low- and mid-range flow, and of course the gain will be more up top.
Note that this is specific to the Chevy GEN I SBC and it's weak exhaust port. Every engine is different
I'll note in passing this conflicts with every dyno test I've ever seen - including my own. We could split hairs and note that below 2500 RPM there's maybe a break-even at best, but 2500 on up (I would call anything between 2500 - 4500 "midrange") long-tube headers will beat any stock manifold or shorty header. Certainly you can have a too-large header diameter which leads to poor low- and mid-range flow, and of course the gain will be more up top.
Note that this is specific to the Chevy GEN I SBC and it's weak exhaust port. Every engine is different
Last edited by jb78L-82; Aug 16, 2009 at 05:28 PM.




















