Trailing Arm Bushing?
09-02-2009, 11:57 PM
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well, in the home stretch on by trailing arm bushing replacement project. The passenger side TA came off with no issues. But, the driver side bolt was frozen to the sleeve and had to use a sawsall. Hopefully be in the alignment shop in the next few days so I can drive if this weekend.. Thanks again for all the tips ahead of time. Link to a few pic's
09-03-2009, 06:04 PM
#22
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Gary,
Yes I would say that this method is fine. All you are trying to do is get the assembly to one side...like you have done in the photo ...and then check the gap.. I would say that 028" is WAAAAAY out. I believe it should be .010". As long as your fixture is using light pressure to move the bushing and not CRANKING down on your "c" clamps....you should be fine checking it the way you have done it..
"DUB"
Yes I would say that this method is fine. All you are trying to do is get the assembly to one side...like you have done in the photo ...and then check the gap.. I would say that 028" is WAAAAAY out. I believe it should be .010". As long as your fixture is using light pressure to move the bushing and not CRANKING down on your "c" clamps....you should be fine checking it the way you have done it..
"DUB"
09-03-2009, 11:31 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
Great writeup and lots of nice photos. Speaking of photos, it looks to me like you used rubber bushings. Is that correct? If so, can you please tell me exactly what bushings you used and where you bought them?
Thanks,
John
'73 Coupe.
Thanks,
John
'73 Coupe.
09-08-2009, 09:14 AM
#25
Instructor
Thread Starter
It took me a few weekends because I did a lot of cleanup and painting while I was back there. If you have never done it before it can be intimidating and expect a few frozen bolts and rust. Removing the bushing was easy; a large step drill bit did the trick in no time. The bushing install it self is no big deal if you have to installation tool. I did not have one but was fortunate to have a Corvette specialty shop in town that did and installed it for me. I also let him remove a lower shock mount and replace a bad u-joint in one of my half shafts.
10-04-2009, 09:29 PM
#28
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Unless you are thinking of the front upper and lower control arm bushings...which should be tightened when the car is proper hide height.
You definately have a different way of doing this than I do. I guess...if at the end of the job...EVERYTHING is tight...I guess the job is completed.
"DUB"
10-05-2009, 06:21 PM
#30
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I personally torque this bolt/nut so I can verify that the shims are tight and not loose when the torque has been achieved at this location.
This also guarantees that the castle nut is in the correct position so a cotter pin can be installed and the castle nut will be held by the cotter pin...which I usually check before I re-install the trailing arm...if a new bolt needs to be installed due to the original was rusted or not worthy of being used again.
"DUB"
10-05-2009, 07:25 PM
#31
Melting Slicks
I have some related questions regarding the VB&P do it yourself bushings for Dub. That set came with my Zip "total suspension package"
1. When setting up the bushings in the TA using the supplied bushing shims, should you REALLY follow the directions exactly and shim both sides the same? OR due to future TA toe alignment issues ought you be better favor one side a bit - to get a better chance at the toe-in deal working out later? If so I would presume you would put less width on the inside side? Or is that on a car to car basis? I can post my old shim widths for the toe alignment if you want.
2. With what and WHERE do you grease the TA bushing area with when you install those bushings and later mount the TA's?
3. I also need to call you about my rear wheel bearings - I'm getting very close to the decision point here.
-W
1. When setting up the bushings in the TA using the supplied bushing shims, should you REALLY follow the directions exactly and shim both sides the same? OR due to future TA toe alignment issues ought you be better favor one side a bit - to get a better chance at the toe-in deal working out later? If so I would presume you would put less width on the inside side? Or is that on a car to car basis? I can post my old shim widths for the toe alignment if you want.
2. With what and WHERE do you grease the TA bushing area with when you install those bushings and later mount the TA's?
3. I also need to call you about my rear wheel bearings - I'm getting very close to the decision point here.
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; 10-05-2009 at 07:27 PM.
10-06-2009, 05:30 PM
#32
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I have some related questions regarding the VB&P do it yourself bushings for Dub. That set came with my Zip "total suspension package"
1. When setting up the bushings in the TA using the supplied bushing shims, should you REALLY follow the directions exactly and shim both sides the same? OR due to future TA toe alignment issues ought you be better favor one side a bit - to get a better chance at the toe-in deal working out later? If so I would presume you would put less width on the inside side? Or is that on a car to car basis? I can post my old shim widths for the toe alignment if you want.
2. With what and WHERE do you grease the TA bushing area with when you install those bushings and later mount the TA's?
3. I also need to call you about my rear wheel bearings - I'm getting very close to the decision point here.
-W
1. When setting up the bushings in the TA using the supplied bushing shims, should you REALLY follow the directions exactly and shim both sides the same? OR due to future TA toe alignment issues ought you be better favor one side a bit - to get a better chance at the toe-in deal working out later? If so I would presume you would put less width on the inside side? Or is that on a car to car basis? I can post my old shim widths for the toe alignment if you want.
2. With what and WHERE do you grease the TA bushing area with when you install those bushings and later mount the TA's?
3. I also need to call you about my rear wheel bearings - I'm getting very close to the decision point here.
-W
I sent you a PM.
"DUB"
10-14-2009, 04:47 PM
#33
Melting Slicks
Hey Bytor? What alignment shop you use?
I'm near Anderson and looking for something close by that does vettes well. Does yours use the new lazer setup?
-W
I'm near Anderson and looking for something close by that does vettes well. Does yours use the new lazer setup?
-W
10-14-2009, 07:03 PM
#34
Instructor
Thread Starter
I lucked up and found a guy at The Tire Exchange in Simpsonville that has done a lot of vettes in his time. He knew what he was doing. He did not have the laser setup, just an old Hunter system. I was very pleased.
11-09-2009, 03:11 PM
#35
Pro
Hi All,
I just purchased a rear suspension kit from VBP and it came with the poly rear trailing arm bushing kit. In your opinion should I use the kit or should I purchase rubber trailing arm bushings and the rear trailing/control arm bushing tool (part no. 582423) from Corvette Central instead? The car will probably never see the track and will mostly be street driven.
Thanks
Don
I just purchased a rear suspension kit from VBP and it came with the poly rear trailing arm bushing kit. In your opinion should I use the kit or should I purchase rubber trailing arm bushings and the rear trailing/control arm bushing tool (part no. 582423) from Corvette Central instead? The car will probably never see the track and will mostly be street driven.
Thanks
Don
11-09-2009, 05:03 PM
#37
Melting Slicks
Hi All,
I just purchased a rear suspension kit from VBP and it came with the poly rear trailing arm bushing kit. In your opinion should I use the kit or should I purchase rubber trailing arm bushings and the rear trailing/control arm bushing tool (part no. 582423) from Corvette Central instead? The car will probably never see the track and will mostly be street driven.
I just purchased a rear suspension kit from VBP and it came with the poly rear trailing arm bushing kit. In your opinion should I use the kit or should I purchase rubber trailing arm bushings and the rear trailing/control arm bushing tool (part no. 582423) from Corvette Central instead? The car will probably never see the track and will mostly be street driven.
1. The VBP units (when installed) are a little wider than stock. this reduces your adjustment ability on the T/A vs Toe In.
So long as your T/A shims were about equel on iether side, you outta be OK. If you need to favor one side heavily - then when you set up the new bushings make sure to remember to favor the correct side when you use the bushing setup shims.
2. The T/A when swinging (in use) actually moves on more than one plane. So long as you set up the bushing per the instructions (ie not TOO tight) you'll be fine for normal street use. If you set them up too tight or put them under a lot of stress, they may make an occaisional "pop" as they are asked to move more than they want to.
All that said.. VBP has been selling these bushings for a long time. They work well if properly set up. Yes, the purists are absolutely correct when they point out the 2 flaws as noted above. But for your average street driver - those issues don't impact day to day life.
-W
11-09-2009, 06:12 PM
#38
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Two issues:
1. The VBP units (when installed) are a little wider than stock. this reduces your adjustment ability on the T/A vs Toe In.
So long as your T/A shims were about equel on iether side, you outta be OK. If you need to favor one side heavily - then when you set up the new bushings make sure to remember to favor the correct side when you use the bushing setup shims.
2. The T/A when swinging (in use) actually moves on more than one plane. So long as you set up the bushing per the instructions (ie not TOO tight) you'll be fine for normal street use. If you set them up too tight or put them under a lot of stress, they may make an occaisional "pop" as they are asked to move more than they want to.
All that said.. VBP has been selling these bushings for a long time. They work well if properly set up. Yes, the purists are absolutely correct when they point out the 2 flaws as noted above. But for your average street driver - those issues don't impact day to day life.
-W
1. The VBP units (when installed) are a little wider than stock. this reduces your adjustment ability on the T/A vs Toe In.
So long as your T/A shims were about equel on iether side, you outta be OK. If you need to favor one side heavily - then when you set up the new bushings make sure to remember to favor the correct side when you use the bushing setup shims.
2. The T/A when swinging (in use) actually moves on more than one plane. So long as you set up the bushing per the instructions (ie not TOO tight) you'll be fine for normal street use. If you set them up too tight or put them under a lot of stress, they may make an occaisional "pop" as they are asked to move more than they want to.
All that said.. VBP has been selling these bushings for a long time. They work well if properly set up. Yes, the purists are absolutely correct when they point out the 2 flaws as noted above. But for your average street driver - those issues don't impact day to day life.
-W
on both issues. I have been installing polyurethane trailing arm bushings in Corvettes for a VERY LONG time and there has not been one issue or customer complaint. Mainly because these Corvettes are street driven....and never PUSHED to the limits of the factory design for handling. IF you plan on extreme driving on a race track....then the poly bushings are not the BEST choice....and it would also cause you to change many other components to give you even better handling.Just make sure you FOLLOW the INSTRUCTIONS...and use a feeler gauge like they mention in the paperwork.
"DUB"
11-17-2009, 03:32 PM
#40
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