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SO I have read through my AIM and many posts here on the forum b/c I am needing to replace two of the lug bolt posts on the front driver's side. I removed the tire and low and behold my rotors are the original ones and are still rivoted in place. I understand I have to drill these out to remove the rotor so I can knock out the wheel lugs but I have to get the dang caliper off of there first. I know where the two bolts are that hold it in place and have soaked it with PB blaster for a few days now but they wont budge! It's hard to fit anything back there other than a wrachet because the bolts are on the backside. I know they aren't more than 10 years old, the calipers, because they just look refurbished and are in great shape. Any pointers or am I missing something???
SO I have read through my AIM and many posts here on the forum b/c I am needing to replace two of the lug bolt posts on the front driver's side. I removed the tire and low and behold my rotors are the original ones and are still rivoted in place. I understand I have to drill these out to remove the rotor so I can knock out the wheel lugs but I have to get the dang caliper off of there first. I know where the two bolts are that hold it in place and have soaked it with PB blaster for a few days now but they wont budge! It's hard to fit anything back there other than a wrachet because the bolts are on the backside. I know they aren't more than 10 years old, the calipers, because they just look refurbished and are in great shape. Any pointers or am I missing something???
thanks for the help!
Sully
The procedure for replacing Wheel Hub Bolts is in your Service Manual (most likely section "3C").
You DO NOT have to remove the rotor to replace these bolts. Removal is done with a press.
As to the caliper attachment bolts, I had to use a long breaker bar to give me leverage. A regular ratchet was just too short.
Buy a breaker bar, this won't be the last time you use it. You can knock the old studs out with a hammer. Puting the new ones in is a little harder. Your best bet is to take it to your local machine shop. They can do it in a couple minutes for a minimal charge.
Sounds like you might be best off letting a competent garage work on your car.
Mike, there are things I am planning on letting the shop do but first I need to replace these wheel studs. Two are sheered off leaving only three... that said I do not feel comfortable driving down the road with only those holding the wheel on. SO I am going to soak the area some more with PB blaster and then use the breaker bar...once I get the rotor off I will take it to the shop for the R&R of the wheel studs.
thanks to all,
Sully
Last edited by Sully1882; Aug 17, 2009 at 03:58 PM.
Mike, there are things I am planning on letting the shop do but first I need to replace these wheel studs. Two are sheered off leaving only three... that said I do not feel comfortable driving down the road with only those holding the wheel on. SO I am going to soak the area some more with PB blaster and then use the breaker bar...once I get the rotor off I will take it to the shop for the R&R of the wheel studs.
thanks to all,
Sully
Sully, for the time and grief you're going through, consider calling the wrecker and have your car brought in to the shop. PB isn't going to do much here. Those bolts are torqued tight.
IMHO if you're just crossing town and driving mildly, you can make it on 3 lug nuts.
Sully, for the time and grief you're going through, consider calling the wrecker and have your car brought in to the shop. PB isn't going to do much here. Those bolts are torqued tight.
IMHO if you're just crossing town and driving mildly, you can make it on 3 lug nuts.
Sully, get some CRC Freeze Release or the Permatex/Loc-Tite equivalent. This stuff freezes the bolt/nut and sprays penetrant on it at the same time. After about 20 seconds take an impact wrench to it and it will come right off.
Just buy the correct socket for the caliper bolts, put it on a 3/8" or 1/2" breaker bar, slip a 4 foot length of black iron (gas) pipe over the handle and tug away. It will break loose. Those bolts were torqued pretty tight to begin with...and many years of use freezes them together pretty well. But they are not rusted (unless the seals are totally shot or the car was under water), so they should come loose with enough torque applied. I would not use heat, as that much heat would damage the caliper...not to mention making a total mess of the brake fluid.
got them loose, went by harbor freight last night and for 7.99 I bought a 17" breaker bar and with a bit of muscle they came loose! Now the fun really begins!
ok got it all apart last night after drilling out the rivots. Not bad at all, very easy but I did feel bad removing the almost 40 year old parts. Rotor popped right off and the wheel hub came off after removing the castle nut. Bearing all look good and the grease still has some green tint to it. Everything really looks good overall. Taking the hub in the the shop at lunch to have the old lugs pressed out and new lugs pressed in! I will repack the bearings for sure. But what seal is it that petes74ttop is talking about ???
Should have told you to mark the rotor and hub so that you can put them together the same way they came off. PG.[/QUOTE]
You're kidding right???? WHAT? no one ever even mentioned anything about marking it nor that it was it important! What kind of problems can this cause?
ok new wheel lug studs are placed in... im ready to go... just gotta see patients the rest of the afternoon and then can go home to the garage to play! Good news, I CAN tell how the rotor was mated to the wheel hub. I only drilled all the way through the rivot in one place! But can someone tell me why this is important????
To avoid any new vibrations due to mismatched rotating mass. The parts were balanced as a unit so they need to go back together the same way they came apart.