brake lines...
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,134
Likes: 4,206
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi MY74,
If I may I'd suggest you replace the "long" line with Stainless Steel, and the rest with the regular steel lines. I found the SS lines a bit hard to get good leak-free seals on and switched back to the easier to work with Bundy steel lines.
A lot of SS line are sold so I guess many people have better results with them than I did.
Regards,
Alan
PS: Make sure you have a high quality set of flare wrenches, they'll make the job easier.
If I may I'd suggest you replace the "long" line with Stainless Steel, and the rest with the regular steel lines. I found the SS lines a bit hard to get good leak-free seals on and switched back to the easier to work with Bundy steel lines.
A lot of SS line are sold so I guess many people have better results with them than I did.
Regards,
Alan
PS: Make sure you have a high quality set of flare wrenches, they'll make the job easier.
Last edited by Alan 71; Aug 20, 2009 at 04:45 PM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Lantana, TX
Stainless
Howdy, I definately recommend the stainless lines. I ordered a kit that came with every hard line as well as stainless braided hoses. The kit came in a large box and all lines were pre-bent and fit together nicely.
I would get all new "c" clips and and a set of the clamps that hold the lines in as well. Get rid of all that old rusty stuff.
As mentioned above a good set of line wrenches will help too.
- Josh
I would get all new "c" clips and and a set of the clamps that hold the lines in as well. Get rid of all that old rusty stuff.
As mentioned above a good set of line wrenches will help too.
- Josh
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 1
From: SOUTH ELGIN IL
Stainless is the way to go, dude. It's what I did on my '74. Be sure to specify power or manual brakes because the lines are different. Next, search out the thread that Stinger and I had up on our replacements. He did it with the body off, I did it with the body on. If you do it with the body on get ready to be frustrated - best get something you can beat on now. You will have to take most of the accessories off the front of engine to clear the prebent transverse line and the line running from front to back through the crossmember will be tricky. The rest you will just have to "finesse" into place and do the best you can.
I went all stainless, and haven't had any trouble with leaks. However, I also replaced all my calipers as well. Feel free to PM me if you want to chat about this more.
Good luck!
Dan
I went all stainless, and haven't had any trouble with leaks. However, I also replaced all my calipers as well. Feel free to PM me if you want to chat about this more.
Good luck!
Dan
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS
I chose to go with regular lines. I figured the originals had lasted over 30 years and the softer steel is easier to gently bend to work the lines into place when replacing them with the body on.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
From: Pensacola Florida
Thanks for the great advise guys. I always feel a little dumb when I ask these questions because I'm no ASE Master Mechanic but I usually know my way around a car. These Corvettes are something else. Some of the engineering is both brilliant and perplexing at the same time. I really appreciate any and all experienced advice.
Frank
Frank
