Hope this comes across ok. This is my second post on the forum--first was while deliberating between a Cobra Rep and an Early C3. Since then I've picked up a non-original '68 smallblock, 4 spd, roadster that was in the midst of a refurb. Soon after I was re-deployed to Afghanistan where I've been forced to save some $. Here's where I'm at now.

SRIII Stage II Frame w/ C4 Susp, Steering, Brakes and a 3.45:1 D44--I spec'd to have it built for a TKO 600 w/std .64 5th, Hooker Side Exhaust, and a Carbed Gen 1 SBC. (I did this because I wanted a circa '60s looking engine bay, and I didn't want to mess with header mods or exhaust alignment and warantee issues--btw-I had to have the side pipes. I also plan to use 17 to 18 wheels that fit the wells (approx 27" dia.)

Here's where I need advice--which SBC combo? This will be a street only car. Important criteria is: Power to match the looks/expectations, drivability, reliability, and to a degree, longevity. Last on the list, although welcome, is a relative degree of economy. The exhaust mentioned is a "must have" so I'll need whichever combo to work well with it. I want a subtle muscle-car lope, but nothing radical. I'd also like to use the '68s vaccuum assist. With regard to power, I'm not into measuring contests, but cool points would be nice.

For me, steetable means great throttle response, and the ability to romp on it and haul-a at a moments notice. Also, the abilty to toss the keys to someone for a trip around the block without requiring a formal checkout program. Is this how others would define it?

The only similar car I've had was a '67 350, M21, 4.11 Camaro. It had 10:1, 1.94 camel heads, a moderate cam, and matched induction and exhaust. It's the only guage I have to go on, but I thought it was pretty quick.

Cost is somewhat important, but really only determines how long things take. Nothing exotic. I am planning on a full roller with Holley Mech Sech Carb, RPM Air-Gap Intake and AFR Streets or equal heads. I'm considering Dart/World Blocks, but I honestly don't know much about them. I know nothing about the negative effects of siamese cylinders with regard to heat or longevity. Are steam holes a factor. I believe the Hookers will require straight-plug heads. I've heard a few nagatives about strokers in general and a few about the quality of aftermarket blocks. Does a strokers limited RPM potential cause negatives for street use? What about CI with respect to, head port size, cam and induction (with the Hooker Side-pipes)?Hope this is enough info for some informed comments. Specifics are welcome. Also, feel free to point out engine items you disagree with. The only plan I would consider changing is a switch to aftermarket EFI, but I'd prefer not to.


Thanks. Sorry so long-winded,
Rob

 

If roughly 400 cubes and dependability to 600 hp is enough for you
the dart SHP block Part #31161211 is really worth the money at
$1532.00 www.dartheads.com if you want more cubes with more then a 3.750 stroke you will need one of there race blocks.

On a double pumper carb get one with annular boosters.

I will let everyone else argue out the rest of the parts.

 

You've got some good parameters...but you gotta set a budget otherwise it's just window shopping

As you're willing to do an aftermarket block, there's no replacement for displacement A big-inch small block is the best way to achieve your goals of good driveability combined with big power numbers. But this is also big $$$, of course. There are no real negatives to a properly built stroker; you'll hear comments about rod angularity, etc...but the reality is every engine has negatives and positives. Aftermarket blocks open up the power levels and options considerably, and their quality is outstanding.

Unlike most C3s, you've got the chassis and will be able to put enough tire under the car to actually use the power!

You'll be looking for a roller cam, likely hydraulic but that remains to be seen depending on the rest of the combo.

One thing to consider, budget permitting, is an LS engine swap. This kinda hits all your high points - cool factor, driveability/economy and power to rip the pavement. It does give up the nostalgia look. There's a good sticky in this section.

Thanks for your service! Seriously, let me know if there's anything you want sent (car mags, catalogs, etc.). We send out a bunch of APO boxes/month to guys in Iraq (where my son is serving) and Afganistan.

 

Thanks for your responses. What are your thoughts on carb and head port size. I don't mind leaving power on the table for throttle response and solid mid to middle-upper powerband. I was thinking about a 650DP and 180cc port AFR Streets for a 10:1 cr 383 and probable a 750 with 195s for a 427. I think several would recommend against this as I'm giving up available power. For whichever combo, please remember the exhaust, trans, and 3.45 rear gearing as a constant. Also, from everything I've read the RPM Air Gap should work well for a 383-427 SBC. My plan is to strive for a 1800ish - 6000 powerband with properly matched carb, intake, heads and exhaust. At that point, I was going to give Lunati or Comp a call to help select a cam grind. Any thoughts.

If I go the aftermarket block route, which CI combos are recommended and why. At which point are you wasting money for unusable power levels (torque). I've heard 500/500 is perfect--just curious how the difference in CI will behave.

BTW - Thanks for the "Thanks for your service" comment. Its not all that bad where I'm at. Many have it much worse.

Rob

 

I would use a Dart SHP block. It accepts factory roller. 10 to 1 compression, AFR 195 eliminator heads, 4.125 bore 3.75 stroke forged rotating assembly and this cam. Some will say raise compression and the cam is too small but this would be my build specs. Cam has nice lift, not too radical of duration and a wider lsa for a broad powerband. Probably have to port match the intake.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=209&sb=0

 

that looks like a good combo for what the op is looking for. i have xfi lobes on my z06 cam and it performs very well. the cam is a good match for the comp ratio and will be street friendy but will still have a nice lope to it. it should be a solid 425 to 450 hp motor.

 

Bet it would pull over 450 HP but 475 to 500 ft lbs of torque through a fairly wide range with a nice flat torque curve.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...evy/index.html

 

This is a great help. Thanks. I was thinking just about the same. I do like the idea of using the 4.125 SHP with the 3.80 GMPP Crank for 406 CI. It that's the case, with AFR 195 Steets out of the box, the XFI Cam and C.R. mentioned, along with intake and exhaust plan--what about carb size.

According to Summit's guide a 406 at 85% VE calls for 649cfm and 98% VE calls for 748cfm. I'm guessing this build would fall somewhere between the two. Is this assumption w/out a choke butterfly? Would I notice a response difference, and at which RPM range would a 650 carb show its limits?

What are your thoughts on my choice of a 3.45 rear gear with TKO?

Would you advise against new factory lifters and spider?

Thanks again, and I hope I'm not rehashing so many basic questions that this gets annoying.

Rob

 

I agree the dart SHP block is a good idea I even agree with 427 or 400 cubes but 2000FRCZ19 and 63mako head choices way to big.

Why spend all this money just call A&A Midwest Enginequest have them ship a set of 1955, 265 chevy heads, they do not sell to the public so you will need to have your favorite machine shop get them for you.

The cross section on the runners are smaller this will give you higher air velocity through the runners fill the cylinders better the 1.72/1.50 valves being smaller in dia. will make it easier for your 4.125 cylinder to pull air around the valves with that nasty 23 degree angle, what ever you do don't mess up have them ship you the 283 power pack heads with the bigger 194 intake valve, big valves are not needed all they do is add weight for the valve spring to have to keep under control.

The bigger you make your engine the more you need a smaller runner smaller valves, the long arm of the stroke makes all the torque extra air flow increase at lower rpms does not increase torque.

Don't waste money on the high rise manifolds or a DP carb have A&A Enginequest send you the manifold off the 265 with the 450 CFM carb.

 

The SHP block is the best deal out there for an aftermarket block. AFR 195s are some of the best heads on the planet and perfect for this build. Gains for higher CR are small at best (usually 1-3% for .5 point) and aren't worth the effort for a carburated street build.

I would avoid the GMPP 3.80 crank as I think you'll find your piston choices severely limited as you'll end up with an odd compression height. You can certainly have custom forged pistons made, and these days for a very reasonable price, but not sure it's worth it for the extra $$$ when there are easier ways to get more power.

The factory spider and retainers are only good to .328 lobe lift, I believe, so can't be used with this cam. I'd verify that - I don't have my reference in front of me at the moment.

750 carb minimum.

Overall, this looks like a solid build. Definitely would need the right gears to make that cam work.

Max-effort builds are fun Again, I suggest you pencil in a budget before going too much further to avoid surprises

 

There's no reason to bring this sarcastic garbage on to another thread.

 

This is from the Dart article above "The lifter bosses are also taller to give more lateral support to the lifter, something that is lacking with older production blocks that are converted to hydraulic roller lifters." Would bet the factory roller lifters and spyder will work on this with this lift. Ask Dart and/or Comp. 750 carb is the minimum on this build. You could go with millions of possible combinations but with your 3.45 gear and TKO 600, AFR 195 heads, CI, operating rpm range, Desired manners and dependability a must this is a solid well designed build for your needs.

 

Interesting my post removed I did not remove it. Garbage Billa you have a standing invitation from me ph # 972-317-7977

To the OP sounds like your on the right track you will need at least a 750 size carb.

 

i think the mods were doing you a favor by removing it. i think they were worried about the thousand or so junk mail companies you were being signed up with by some funny guys here on the forum. ya gotta think about that kind of stuff before you post that kind of info.

 

Name calling?

This is the garbage - and garbage it is - I'm referring to:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...post1571250195

If you disagree, then disagree - but posting junk, especially cross-thread, just because you think it's funny is just useless and a disservice to this community.

Can't think of a reason I'd call you

 

Call me up will visit somewhere. I have a feeling there will be posts
you may not like to bad.

 

People that run the forum can do what they want its there forum
problem is Billa must think he runs it sent me a PM said if I did not have anything positive to post don't post what an arrogant a-s.

 

dont take anything you read on the internet personal. it is what it is. i think you are smart enough to know that though.

 

Yep, they sure can It is completely your choice to contribute or just be a useless distraction. Clearly you've made your choice.

Some people just don't know how to disagree without being disagreeable.

 

I think I will become a useless distraction just for you personally.