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Holley Carb Idle Ajustment Problem

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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 09:57 PM
  #1  
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Default Holley Carb Idle Ajustment Problem

The holley carb on my 71 was recently restored. My problem is the idle for my 350/330hp is supposed to be set at 700 and should idle about 400 rpm above that when cold for the first 20 seconds or so because of the CEC solenoid. I can not set the idle less than 1000 rpm even when the idle screw is backed all the way out. What gives? Idle needs to be 700 rpm. Thanks.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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CEC solenoid? If your throttle is totally closed and against the stop with nothing holding it open at all, then you have a vacuum leak.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:21 PM
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you might check the secondaries to see if seated...probably have to pull the carb to see if this problem exists....
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:42 PM
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Everything works on the carb; engine runs fine, CEC works--just can't set idle lower than 1000 rpms when it shoudl be 700rpm.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 11:11 PM
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I am not a carb expert so anyone giving advise will have to keep it simple and thoroughly explain what I should check. I thought all you had to do was turn the idle screw and the idle went up or as you turned it the other was the idle went down until it would kill out on you.
Am I wrong on this?
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 11:21 PM
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Another place to look would be your initial timing. Make sure it's set properly, then adjust your idle accordingly.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:03 AM
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What is the carb number? Choke? Just a guess, but maybe the fast idle setting on the choke is not set right. If it is engaged, no amount of adjustments on the main idle setting is going to make any difference.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:35 AM
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My guess would be that you have too much air coming in on the secondary side of the carb and this is not allowing your primary idle adjustment to function properly.
Not sure how simple I can make it but I will try. Over the years I have found that after a carb has been rebuilt and is displaying your same symptoms it is the idle speed adjustment on the secondary side. This is when most state “But there is no adjustment on the secondary’s just the primaries”. To see the screw and adjust it you need to take the carb off the car and turn the carb over. Recessed in the base plate is a screw that adjusts the opening of the secondary throttle blades. Now the setting is a little more difficult vs. the primary side. You will need a 3x5 card to use as a gauge. If you look down the venturies (hole where the throttle blades are) you will see a small slot about 1/8” long and only about a hair wide. You need to open or close using the Secondary Idle Screw so that when you place the 3x5 card on the butterfly you will just start to see the slot. As a side not you ideally should have the same amount of slot showing on both the primary and secondary side.
Hope this helps and does not confuse you more.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:58 AM
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thats one reason i like my speed demon.
you can adjust the secondary without taking off the carb
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 09:47 AM
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The CEC solenoid is not supposed to make the engine idle faster when it's cold. That's the job of the choke. The CEC is supposed to stop dieseling when you shut the engine off and engage the TCS to supply vacuum advance when the engine temp is above 180 and below 230 and the transmission is in third or fourth gears.

You need to set your initial idle using the minimum idle screw to 400 rpm or the lowest rpm the engine will continue to run at with the CEC disconnected then connect the CEC and set the idle to 700 using the plunger on the CEC. Turn it clockwise to lower idle and counterclockwise to raise it.

cc

Last edited by CCrane65; Aug 24, 2009 at 09:50 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 11:47 AM
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The 1971 is different from the 1972. "All 1971's have high idle for 30 seconds regardless of engine temperature." This is due to the CEC or TCS and occurs even if ambient temperature is not cold enough to set the choke.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by wallifishrmn
The 1971 is different from the 1972. "All 1971's have high idle for 30 seconds regardless of engine temperature." This is due to the CEC or TCS and occurs even if ambient temperature is not cold enough to set the choke.
Yes but that occurs automatically due to the relay not by setting the CEC any certain way. The CEC is allowing vacuum advance through for 30 seconds then shutting it off.

Your problem is that you are trying to set your idle using only the minimum idle screw and not incorporating the CEC solenoid.

cc

Sorry Paul, I lost track of the fact that you are the OP.

Last edited by CCrane65; Aug 24, 2009 at 02:06 PM. Reason: Fix response for OP not third person.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 09:36 PM
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Default The slot shd have .030" to .040" or so showing as I recall.

That wacky slot.
Originally Posted by waterplay
My guess would be that you have too much air coming in on the secondary side of the carb and this is not allowing your primary idle adjustment to function properly.
Not sure how simple I can make it but I will try. Over the years I have found that after a carb has been rebuilt and is displaying your same symptoms it is the idle speed adjustment on the secondary side. This is when most state “But there is no adjustment on the secondary’s just the primaries”. To see the screw and adjust it you need to take the carb off the car and turn the carb over. Recessed in the base plate is a screw that adjusts the opening of the secondary throttle blades. Now the setting is a little more difficult vs. the primary side. You will need a 3x5 card to use as a gauge. If you look down the venturies (hole where the throttle blades are) you will see a small slot about 1/8” long and only about a hair wide. You need to open or close using the Secondary Idle Screw so that when you place the 3x5 card on the butterfly you will just start to see the slot. As a side not you ideally should have the same amount of slot showing on both the primary and secondary side.
Hope this helps and does not confuse you more.
Reply

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