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The points tend to burn and erode from the constant electrical discharges across them. When you start to detect some ignition 'miss' problems, that's the time to inspect the points. If the contact surfaces are rough and/or pitted/charred, you can use a points file to clean them up. A few strokes of the file [when placed between the released contacts] should remove the rough/discolored surface. Be certain that the contact surfaces mate well across the entire surface when you are done. You can lightly bend the contact arm in order to get them to mate well. Once you reinstall them, you need to check/reset the dwell adjustment. Timing will not be affected if dwell is set properly and the distributor is not loosened/moved. If your 'clean-up' work doesn't appear to get the ignition to operate as well as you expect, it's time to replace the points and the condensor. Also inspect and clean the contact surfaces of the distributor cap and the rotor while you are in there. If the rotor arm contact and/or the cap electrode contacts are badly pitted/burned, it is time to change them. Replace both at the same time.
I put my dwell meter on once or twice a year and readjust as required. Simple to do and usually worthwhile. Points will never last as long as plugs given that we all use lead free fuel now.
if you're not a purist I highly recommend getting a points eliminator kit from someone like Pertronix, they work better than points and are maintenance free.
and then you're really farqued. Most people keep a spare set of points in their car for when the electronic thingy fails. I couldn't make up my mind where to keep them, so figured the best place was inside the distributor. That meant there was no room for the electronic thingy, so that stays at home where it can cr*p out all it wants.
i don't believe in the use of files to smooth the contacts. that may have been an acceptable method of extending useable life on the family car, but not in a performance engine. the spark occurs when the points open, and there is a sudden collapse of the emf stored in the coil. if the points are filed, the result will be hundreds of smaller ridges that will act as arc generating tips. this will cause a much slower (longer duration) break in the electrical circuit, and a slower and weaker collapse in the emf of the coil. if the points are pitted change them and the condensor and plugs, but unless you're racing on a track, you should get 8-10K miles on points, condensor and plugs.
Lovely theory, but on a street driven car filing the points will work just fine. Or at least according to what millions of people have done for the last umpteen decades.
Filed points are better than burned points. Of course, you could always change them when they start to run 'rough'. You might want to buy points by the 'six-pack' if that is your approach.
P.S. If messing with points is a big deal to you, buy an electronic module or switch to a GM H.E.I. distributor. To me, popping the distributor cap on a rainy day is no big deal.
Lovely theory, but on a street driven car filing the points will work just fine. Or at least according to what millions of people have done for the last umpteen decades.
I disagree. Filing points is bad practise and unnecessary. Simply use a dwell meter to adjust used points.
Millions of people also smoke cigarettes. Also a bad practise.
Change them once a year at begenning of your season. You cannot drive enough to wear them out in a year. I would also recommend Delco or NAPA points. The rest are crap.