Rotors!!!!!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 282
From: Back in Nebraska
Rotors!!!!!
I bought my rotors from a prominent online Corvette supplier. They were not the most expensive ones offered, but they were in my price range at the time. They only have about 3,000 miles on them but I keep getting a rubbing noise from them. I have had to have them turned twice, and now they are making the same noise.
Did I get what I paid for? Has anyone else had this problem with the less expensive rotors? Should I bite the bullet and buy the more expensive slotted rotors?
Oh I almost forgot, 1970 350/300, driver.
Did I get what I paid for? Has anyone else had this problem with the less expensive rotors? Should I bite the bullet and buy the more expensive slotted rotors?
Oh I almost forgot, 1970 350/300, driver.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,114
Likes: 3,904
From: Connecticut, USA
You don't need slotted rotors for street driving. There is only 035" to machine total on both sides so I would check to see just how much rotor you have left.
I don't know whose rotors you used, but I have used both USA & import without any problems. Are these front or rears?
I don't know whose rotors you used, but I have used both USA & import without any problems. Are these front or rears?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 282
From: Back in Nebraska
You don't need slotted rotors for street driving. There is only 035" to machine total on both sides so I would check to see just how much rotor you have left.
I don't know whose rotors you used, but I have used both USA & import without any problems. Are these front or rears?
I don't know whose rotors you used, but I have used both USA & import without any problems. Are these front or rears?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 282
From: Back in Nebraska
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 282
From: Back in Nebraska
I guess that those are the next steps. I was kind of hoping that I would not have to tear the thing down again. Might be a good winter project though!
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,331
Likes: 479
From: Appleton Wisconsin
Did you check them with a dial indicator after they are torqued on the hub. You will need to put shims between the hub and rotor so they run true on the car. This is a common problem with the corvette, because of the way the caliper is mounted.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 282
From: Back in Nebraska
Where do I get these shims. I had the run out checked on both of the rear wheels and they checked out ok. I never heard of putting shims in there, but I'm willing to try anything.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
Some of the foreign made junk that is sold these days is actually made of metal, but I don't think scrap beer cans count when you are making brake rotors. Those rotors probably are made of cheap, low carbon steel (1020-1040 SAE), which cannot be heat treated for adequate hardness, will not wear well, and will warp with any hard use at all. Send them back to the vendor with a big note that they should use them as boat anchors [for their yacht...], as they aren't worth a d@mn as brake rotors. They won't do anything for you, but it may make you feel better.
P.S. Let us all know where you bought them so we don't order parts from them anymore.
P.S. Let us all know where you bought them so we don't order parts from them anymore.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 282
From: Back in Nebraska
I have checked everywhere on the internet and there is no mention of "shims" for the rotors. Where did you get yours?
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,331
Likes: 479
From: Appleton Wisconsin
You take a aluminum soda can and cut about a 1" square piece and cut a hole in the middle to fit over the stud. You then torque the rotor and check with a dial indicator, the part of the rotor that is the closest to the inner part of the car needs the shims. Its very time consuming, 1st mark the rotor and move it one stud at a time till you get the best reading than use the shims as needed. You can sometime get it close enough by doing the rotating method. Good luck and have a lot of patients.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
Some of the foreign made junk that is sold these days is actually made of metal, but I don't think scrap beer cans count when you are making brake rotors. Those rotors probably are made of cheap, low carbon steel (1020-1040 SAE), which cannot be heat treated for adequate hardness, will not wear well, and will warp with any hard use at all. Send them back to the vendor with a big note that they should use them as boat anchors [for their yacht...], as they aren't worth a d@mn as brake rotors. They won't do anything for you, but it may make you feel better.
P.S. Let us all know where you bought them so we don't order parts from them anymore.
P.S. Let us all know where you bought them so we don't order parts from them anymore.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
Hmmm.... I agree that they are "cast" (rather than billet machined)...
From this website: http://www.aa1car.com/library/brake_rotors.htm
BRAKE ROTOR MATERIALS
Another factor that affects rotor performance is the metallurgy of the rotor itself. The metallurgical properties of the iron determine the rotor's strength, noise, wear and braking characteristics. The casting process must be carefully controlled to produce a high quality rotor. The rate at which the iron cools in the mold is critical and must be closely monitored to achieve the correct tensile strength, hardness and microstructure.
If the casting process is not carefully controlled, the iron may not form the proper microstructure resulting in a noisy rotor or one that lacks proper hardness. A rotor that is too hard may crack while one that is too soft may wear prematurely. Again, economy rotors may not be made to the same level of quality as premium rotors.
From this website: http://www.aa1car.com/library/brake_rotors.htm
BRAKE ROTOR MATERIALS
Another factor that affects rotor performance is the metallurgy of the rotor itself. The metallurgical properties of the iron determine the rotor's strength, noise, wear and braking characteristics. The casting process must be carefully controlled to produce a high quality rotor. The rate at which the iron cools in the mold is critical and must be closely monitored to achieve the correct tensile strength, hardness and microstructure.
If the casting process is not carefully controlled, the iron may not form the proper microstructure resulting in a noisy rotor or one that lacks proper hardness. A rotor that is too hard may crack while one that is too soft may wear prematurely. Again, economy rotors may not be made to the same level of quality as premium rotors.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 282
From: Back in Nebraska
Hmmm.... I agree that they are "cast" (rather than billet machined)...
From this website: http://www.aa1car.com/library/brake_rotors.htm
BRAKE ROTOR MATERIALS
Another factor that affects rotor performance is the metallurgy of the rotor itself. The metallurgical properties of the iron determine the rotor's strength, noise, wear and braking characteristics. The casting process must be carefully controlled to produce a high quality rotor. The rate at which the iron cools in the mold is critical and must be closely monitored to achieve the correct tensile strength, hardness and microstructure.
If the casting process is not carefully controlled, the iron may not form the proper microstructure resulting in a noisy rotor or one that lacks proper hardness. A rotor that is too hard may crack while one that is too soft may wear prematurely. Again, economy rotors may not be made to the same level of quality as premium rotors.
From this website: http://www.aa1car.com/library/brake_rotors.htm
BRAKE ROTOR MATERIALS
Another factor that affects rotor performance is the metallurgy of the rotor itself. The metallurgical properties of the iron determine the rotor's strength, noise, wear and braking characteristics. The casting process must be carefully controlled to produce a high quality rotor. The rate at which the iron cools in the mold is critical and must be closely monitored to achieve the correct tensile strength, hardness and microstructure.
If the casting process is not carefully controlled, the iron may not form the proper microstructure resulting in a noisy rotor or one that lacks proper hardness. A rotor that is too hard may crack while one that is too soft may wear prematurely. Again, economy rotors may not be made to the same level of quality as premium rotors.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,411
Likes: 1,549
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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You don't need slotted rotors for street driving. There is only 035" to machine total on both sides so I would check to see just how much rotor you have left.
I don't know whose rotors you used, but I have used both USA & import without any problems. Are these front or rears?
I don't know whose rotors you used, but I have used both USA & import without any problems. Are these front or rears?
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Frisco TX
Last edited by cowjazz; Sep 7, 2009 at 02:40 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington DE
Do you know what the rotors are rubbing against? It could be rubbing on the backing plate if the plate got pushed in a little. If they are rubbing on the caliper then the rotor must have a serious warp or, more likely, you might have the front an rear rotors mixed up. They are not the same thickness where they mount to the hub. You should be able to look through the top of the caliper and see that the rotor is spaced half way between each half of the caliper. If not (and it doesn't change as you rotate the rotor) then you have the wrong one on the wrong end of the car.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
The NAPA Ultra Premium rotors will run you about $60 each, and last time I checked were still made in the USA. Same box and instruction sheet as Bendix brand but different labels on the outside. They do not have the holes for rivets though.
