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Power Windows - slowwww
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 69
Likes: 7
From: Byron Center MI
Power Windows - slowwww
I have a 74 coupe that I purchased six months ago. Just got it back on the road. Power windows on both sides go up and down very slowly. I often have to pull them up the last inch or so. Is there a way to lubricate these or are the regulators just shot and need replacement?
Hoping to get a little driving time in yet before the Michigan winter!
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Hoping to get a little driving time in yet before the Michigan winter!
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Take them all apart, remove glass first, two bolts, and carefully lift out....pull every 7/16 headed bolt you find inside that door, and the whole thing slips out in pieces....you need to take the bars and nylon wheels and soak overnight in a pan of gasoline to cut the factory dried out white grease...
reassemble dry....nylon roller don't need grease....
put some fresh grease/lube in the motor gear housing, oil the motor bearings....
if still slow, which I doubt...you can ground the doors to the birdcage as sometimes the hinges don't conduct the best....
reassemble dry....nylon roller don't need grease....
put some fresh grease/lube in the motor gear housing, oil the motor bearings....
if still slow, which I doubt...you can ground the doors to the birdcage as sometimes the hinges don't conduct the best....
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Williamsburg OH
I had the same problem with the left one. I removed the door panel and used PB Blaster on the window regulator, guide rails and grease on the gear. It is now faster than a speeding bullit. Also lube the door lock assembly while you are there.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,117
From: Crossville TN
PB Blaster is good for removing any rust/corrosion on the moving parts; but it is not a lubricant. Use the while lithium grease suggested. Use it from a tube, rather than a spray can....unless you just can't reach that area to lube it properly.
But your problem may be electrical, rather than mechanical. The window switch contacts can become burnt/worn and/or the motor brushes can wear out. If both windows started working slowly at the same time, I would start by checking for the integrity of the primary power [supply] wiring and grounding connections; then check-out the 'internal' components.
But your problem may be electrical, rather than mechanical. The window switch contacts can become burnt/worn and/or the motor brushes can wear out. If both windows started working slowly at the same time, I would start by checking for the integrity of the primary power [supply] wiring and grounding connections; then check-out the 'internal' components.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Sep 7, 2009 at 10:09 AM.
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 69
Likes: 7
From: Byron Center MI
I used the PB Blast and both are now going up and down much better. On the driver's side I still get a little bit of clunking as it goes up but it is going up. Thanks for all the help!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,117
From: Crossville TN
'Clunking' probably indicates some wear/bining of the scissor-lift mechanism. The pivot can wear and get loose, then start binding. If you remove the inner door panel and put the window at the middle of its travel, you can 'wiggle' the lift members and see how much slop there is. Then, run it up and down while watching the mechanism for any buckling/binding of components. You can try to free them up lubricating them; that may work for a while. But replacing the rollers and pivot pins may be the only long-term solution. Check it out and see what is going on in there.
