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I know there must be others who have put Dynomax Ceramacoat Headers on your ZZ4 engine. I have the manifolds out, the A/C Compressor out, all heat shields out, the starter lowered, the starter wheel shield out, and I still cannot put the passenger side manifold in!? What is the trick!? I would appreciate any advice from anyone who has done this.
Dissconnect that sides motor mount and place a board under the oil pan - jack the engine up until it can just slip in. Do not jack too far - otherwise you could conceivably damage the opposite side mount - you could loosen that one as well or rent a cherry picker to pick the engine up off both mounts.
Kind of a bummer I know, but it will work and is a damn site easier than removing a cylinder head. :yesnod:
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Re: Dynomax Header Install PROBLEMS!? (Aaron-74)
I have to put mine on too soon and I hope it's not a problem, did you try putting them in from the bottom ?
That's what I have to do with the one's I have on there now.
Never heard of removing the head or lifitng the engine, I hope I don't have to go thru all that with my '80.
I don't know how much of a difference a ZZ4 presents vs. a regular small block, but I installed them from under the car in about 1hr per side. Did not even take the starter off. Just cut the existing exhaust pipe, removed exhaust manifolds and pushed a/c compressor aside (not disconnected), removed idler arm bolts for more room to work and not ding the ceramic coating and that was about it. Should be no problem, but if you ask Volvette you may get a different answer.
I don't know how much of a difference a ZZ4 presents vs. a regular small block, but I installed them from under the car in about 1hr per side. Did not even take the starter off. Just cut the existing exhaust pipe, removed exhaust manifolds and pushed a/c compressor aside (not disconnected), removed idler arm bolts for more room to work and not ding the ceramic coating and that was about it. Should be no problem, but if you ask Volvette you may get a different answer.
Regards,
Jim
Ha, yeah, I'd probably tell you differently but I am unexperienced and learning.-just have to keep a good humor about it. I appreciate all of your advice. I didn't want to remove the idler arm bolts but they are in the way. Maybe I'll try this next. Did you remove them on both sides?
I put mine in on my L48 from under the car. The only thing I had to move was the AC. It was a bit tricky and I did sustain some small dings in the coating (seems very easy to do). If I recall getting them past the idler arm bolts was a PITA and most likely the source of a few dings.
Jim,
I am considering that head setup myself. I would have thought however it would have created a few more ponies than that. I have been told that that setup should produce 300+ hp at the flywheel with a reasonable cam.
I put mine in on my L48 from under the car. The only thing I had to move was the AC. It was a bit tricky and I did sustain some small dings in the coating (seems very easy to do). If I recall getting them past the idler arm bolts was a PITA and most likely the source of a few dings.
So, you didn't have to loosen or do any kind of work to the idler arm? I haven't attempted the other side yet, is the driver's side easier?
I should have more hp, but I have a 1970 Camaro engine with well over 100,000 miles on it and in need of a bottom half rebuild. I also have the wrong cam installed for the vortec heads. I'm actually happy with those dyno number considering the overall shape of the engine. Furthermore, I am probably loosing some extra power in the driveline because of fatigue and state of repair my driveline is in. Everything needs to be rebuilt. Just have not had the time or $$$ to get everything done. I hope to be around 300-350 rear hp when all is done. Acutally, I'm thinking of ordering the base GM crate engine rated at 250hp, toss the factory heads and reinstall all my stuff. I would have a brand new engine with warranty(hopefully) with some solid power. My brother lives in Roswell. Maybe I can stop by to see your vette next time I'm in town. My brother has an all original 80'.
Volvette, there is no idler arm on the drivers side. You do have a pitman arm, but its not in the way. If you have a manual tranny, you will have to remove the z-bar to install the header. Not very difficult to remove and you can rebuild the z-bar while your in there. Not sure what linkage would be in the way with an auto. Still, the driver side should not be very hard. Again you want to install it from under the car. By the way, I'm also learning as I go, so I really do know the frustration. I spend more time cursing than actually getting anything done sometimes.
I just got through putting the same headers on my 77 L48. I installed from the bottom and took no time at all. Just moved the ac out of the way and the starter. I had plenty of room. Alot more than expected. Threw everything back on and boy do they make a differance. When you go to put on pipes def. go with 2.5. Dont let the shop say they cant run them. If they cant, go to a better shop. Good Luck!!! :cheers:
I wonder why there is so much variance between what had to be done to get the headers on. Some had to go as far as raising their engine off the mounts and others didn't even take the starter off and just slid them on? I thought a small block is a small block but it seems there is a lot of variation.
Comments from the experts? I'm learning... :D
Stephen
PS- I took a break from installing the headers last night because I had some work that needed to be done but had taken a backseat to my project. I hope to give the project another shot tonight.
All you really need to know is that they install easily by dropping in or by lifting up. You need the car jacked up. Remove manifolds, ex. & plugs.
You should not need to remove heads or loosen motor mounts.
Some may be installing by dropping in instead of lifting up.
Have a friend who has worked on cars for years, sometimes as a professional. He starts by removing things. I think about how to do it w/o removing anything I am not working on.
:cool:
Since these are high perf. sports cars or supposed to be, many have been hit.
I should have more hp, but I have a 1970 Camaro engine with well over 100,000 miles on it and in need of a bottom half rebuild. I also have the wrong cam installed for the vortec heads. I'm actually happy with those dyno number considering the overall shape of the engine. Furthermore, I am probably loosing some extra power in the driveline because of fatigue and state of repair my driveline is in. Everything needs to be rebuilt. Just have not had the time or $$$ to get everything done. I hope to be around 300-350 rear hp when all is done. Acutally, I'm thinking of ordering the base GM crate engine rated at 250hp, toss the factory heads and reinstall all my stuff. I would have a brand new engine with warranty(hopefully) with some solid power. My brother lives in Roswell. Maybe I can stop by to see your vette next time I'm in town. My brother has an all original 80'.
Hey JIm if u Do stop by Roswell. to meet up with KJL....Let me know and I will meet you guys...We discuss our Days at UGA!!!!!!
Hey Al,
How about a beer tonight somewhere, you pick. Saturday is not looking good. I am going to have to go in to work earlier than I thought and I know Sunday you will be out of town. Let me know.