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'76 gauge problems, no power

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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 08:47 PM
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Default '76 gauge problems, no power

I have a 76 stingray and don't have any power?? to any of the gauges except the clock. I used a volt meter and it says no power. I checked the fuse box and all fuses are good and there is power coming across the fuses. Any help that could be offered would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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On my 77 the clock runs off of the courtesy lite circuit. Does the 76 have the printed circuit card on the back of the center cluster? You said you have power to the fuse box and I am assuming you mean with your light switch in the on position. If this is true you probably lost your ground.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 09:36 PM
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with the light switch on or off and the ignition key on I checked the fuse box and am getting power across all fuses, the fuses are good as is the connection on the fuse holders.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 10:25 PM
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Does the door ajar light work ?
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by williamglaser
I have a 76 stingray and don't have any power?? to any of the gauges except the clock. I used a volt meter and it says no power. I checked the fuse box and all fuses are good and there is power coming across the fuses. Any help that could be offered would be greatly appreciated.
Is the speedo and Tach working? Are you referring just to the center cluster of guages? If so its probably the connector at the rear of the circuit board. It shifts sometimes or may have come loose. You will have to pull out the center cluster and look on the rear. Its not to tough to do.

Remove the side covers on the consol. There are two bolts....one on eachside that holds the center cluster to the consol plate...undo them. Remove the screws on each side of the center cluster. Here is where it gets tricky, you can pull it out from the bottom but need to move the shifter from park to L1 as you do it to create room. Depending on how tight you assemble is it may not clear the consol plate...be gentle in lifting it pulling it towards you. Or on some you can pull the top out first...just far enough to remove the two wires that go to the uper light...they won't clear the dash pad....once you have these wires out of the way it should come out. If all of the above fails you may have to loosen off the consol plate as well.

When out take a look at the plug...check for power there. Make sure that each prong on the plug is touching its designated spot on the circuit board. Try it while you have it out...turn the key on and see if it works...try unplugging it and plugging it in again. Change the bulbs while you are in there.

Jim
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ...Roger...
Does the door ajar light work ?
I don't know, interior is all apart.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jdp6000
Is the speedo and Tach working? Are you referring just to the center cluster of guages? If so its probably the connector at the rear of the circuit board. It shifts sometimes or may have come loose. You will have to pull out the center cluster and look on the rear. Its not to tough to do.

Remove the side covers on the consol. There are two bolts....one on eachside that holds the center cluster to the consol plate...undo them. Remove the screws on each side of the center cluster. Here is where it gets tricky, you can pull it out from the bottom but need to move the shifter from park to L1 as you do it to create room. Depending on how tight you assemble is it may not clear the consol plate...be gentle in lifting it pulling it towards you. Or on some you can pull the top out first...just far enough to remove the two wires that go to the uper light...they won't clear the dash pad....once you have these wires out of the way it should come out. If all of the above fails you may have to loosen off the consol plate as well.

When out take a look at the plug...check for power there. Make sure that each prong on the plug is touching its designated spot on the circuit board. Try it while you have it out...turn the key on and see if it works...try unplugging it and plugging it in again. Change the bulbs while you are in there.

Jim
The 76 doesn't have a circuit board. The gauges that don't work are the fuel, oil, temp, and battery.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by williamglaser
The 76 doesn't have a circuit board. The gauges that don't work are the fuel, oil, temp, and battery.
Those gauges are fed from the GAUGES fuse as is the door ajar light. The gauges all need a ground to work,the door ajar light however has its own separate ground thats why I ask you about the door ajar light. Do you have the gauges out or where you can get to the back of them,if so check the pink wires for power. If you dont have power at the back of the gauges then its obvious since you have said you have power at the fuse that somewhere between the fuse and the back of the gauges you have an open circuit. Make sure the fuse is actually making contact through the fuse holder you would not be the first to be fooled by a dirty connection.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by williamglaser
The 76 doesn't have a circuit board. The gauges that don't work are the fuel, oil, temp, and battery.
Sorry, your right. The circuit board started in 77. If its not the fuses its probably a ground. It looks like they all share the ground running off the Volt guage.

Jim

Last edited by jdp6000; Sep 14, 2009 at 05:39 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 11:01 PM
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It's probably a grounding problem. You need both 12vdc and a ground circuit to measure any voltage on a meter. Did you check the gauge circuit ground to see if it had continuity to chassis ground or the negative terminal on the battery?
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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The guys at Willcox helped me out. The issue was under the fuse box, what a mess!!! I want to thank you all for your help. All gauges work except for the volts, will open a new thread for that.
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by williamglaser
The guys at Willcox helped me out. The issue was under the fuse box, what a mess!!! I want to thank you all for your help. All gauges work except for the volts, will open a new thread for that.
Wow... and I didn't even post! Vulcan mind warp...

I think I may have talked with you on the phone the other day?

This stuff is a disease sometimes. . . The black and white wire runs from the gauge to the dash block thru the firewall and to a junction block. From there it goes to the alternator on the red wire. I don’t remember where the block mounted... someone help me out… I’m sorry, I’ll try to figure this out and post tomorrow.

Willcox
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
Wow... and I didn't even post! Vulcan mind warp...

I think I may have talked with you on the phone the other day?

This stuff is a disease sometimes. . . The black and white wire runs from the gauge to the dash block thru the firewall and to a junction block. From there it goes to the alternator on the red wire. I don’t remember where the block mounted... someone help me out… I’m sorry, I’ll try to figure this out and post tomorrow.

Willcox
Yes on the phone. Thanks again
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
Wow... and I didn't even post! Vulcan mind warp...

I think I may have talked with you on the phone the other day?

This stuff is a disease sometimes. . . The black and white wire runs from the gauge to the dash block thru the firewall and to a junction block. From there it goes to the alternator on the red wire. I don’t remember where the block mounted... someone help me out… I’m sorry, I’ll try to figure this out and post tomorrow.

Willcox
The 2 wires going to the amp gauge are black/white and black both 18 gauge. Each one has an orange fusible link where they connect in the engine compartment. You will have to physically pull on the links and see if they stretch,there is power coming from both sides so a test light won't work. A burnt fusible link is what I usually find.
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