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How do I change the ball joints?

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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 02:54 PM
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Default How do I change the ball joints?

Hey guys!
My ball joints on the front suspension are woren out, so I have to change it.
Can anyone give me some instructions how to do it?

Thanks, Günther
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 03:25 PM
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It's not rocket science, but it requires some time and careful attention to potentially dangerous stuff. You will have to remove the front spindles, which will require removing the springs.

After getting the spindles out of the way it is a matter of drilling/chiseling out the rivets holding the ball joints in (unless previously replaced with bolt-in aftermarket pieces) and bolting in new ones. I would not want to attempt that with the a-arms still on the car if I didn't have to, and if you go that far, you would be well served to replace your suspension bushings as well, unless that was done recently.

It's a long and painful process if you can't commit a lot of time to it all at once. I had to pull all kinds of stuff to get access to remove the A-arms, but your results may be different.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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If the ball joints are still riveted in, You will need to drill them out to remove them. You can bolt the new ball joints in with the supplied bolts and nuts.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 06:07 PM
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How much of this work can you do? Do you have the tools necessary to remove the springs? Do you have a hydraulic press available to you? Several auto parts stores 'loan' spring compressers and other tools, IF you buy the parts from them. That's a problem these days, as part quality is a critical issue for things like ball joints. If you can remove the components (A-frames, etc.) but don't have the tools to properly disassemble and rebuild them completely or correctly, you could have a repair shop do the bushing and joint replacement portion for not too much expense [much less than having them do everything, anyway].
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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I just did my lower ball joints two weeks ago. I'm sure I can help you but I don't know how detailed you need the instructions. If you need instructions on how to do any of the steps just let me know. There are some tips that will make it easier. By the way, you do not have to remove the spring to replace the ball joints.

Here are the major steps:

Jack up the car and support the frame on jackstands.
Support the A-frame with a jack but do NOT lift the frame off the jackstands.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the brake caliper.
Remove the front wheel hub.
Remove the steering knuckle.
Drill out the rivets that hold the ball joint.

Reinstall in the reverse order.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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I need to do mine also.... but I recall a while back there were some quality control issues with some ball joints on the market...

Which are the ones to get... and the one's to stay clear of?
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by my 76 ray
I just did my lower ball joints two weeks ago. I'm sure I can help you but I don't know how detailed you need the instructions. If you need instructions on how to do any of the steps just let me know. There are some tips that will make it easier. By the way, you do not have to remove the spring to replace the ball joints.

Here are the major steps:

Jack up the car and support the frame on jackstands.
Support the A-frame with a jack but do NOT lift the frame off the jackstands.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the brake caliper.
Remove the front wheel hub.
Remove the steering knuckle.
Drill out the rivets that hold the ball joint.

Reinstall in the reverse order.
Can't say I've ever heard of anyone changing ball joints without removing tension on the spring. IMO it is much safer and no more difficult to lower the lower control arm to release tension on the spring before removing the ball joints. I don't see how you can remove the steering knuckle without releasing tension on the spring anyway. You might be able to leave the spring in place after lowering the control arm enough to free the ball joints but if that is what you meant you didn't state it very clearly. Working on the front end can be dangerous if proper safety measures aren't followed and your procedure is not the recommended method.



Rick B.
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 72LS1Vette
Can't say I've ever heard of anyone changing ball joints without removing tension on the spring. IMO it is much safer and no more difficult to lower the lower control arm to release tension on the spring before removing the ball joints. I don't see how you can remove the steering knuckle without releasing tension on the spring anyway. You might be able to leave the spring in place after lowering the control arm enough to free the ball joints but if that is what you meant you didn't state it very clearly. Working on the front end can be dangerous if proper safety measures aren't followed and your procedure is not the recommended method.



Rick B.
Remember I said to put a jack under the lower control arm. That compresses the spring.

After doing that, I removed the nuts on both the upper and lower ball joints then put them back on until the ball joint studs were level with the nuts. Then I rapped the steering knuckle at the upper ball joint with a hammer until it freed up. When it frees up the upper control arm will pop up until the knuckle hits the nut on the ball joint. Then I rapped the steering knuckle at the lower ball joint until it freed up. When it frees up the weight of the steering knuckle caused the knuckle to drop until it hit the nut on the lower ball joint stud. Then you remove the nuts from the ball joints and the knuckle comes off. The jack under the lower control arm keeps tension on the spring and keeps the control arm from going anywhere.
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 11:51 PM
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I don't drill unless I have to. I used a air powered wheel cutter to grind off the rivit heads. MOOG makes the best ball joints and the kit comes with bolts to replace the rivits.

A big hammer blow to the side of metal causes all the tappered fit parts to fall out.
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by my 76 ray
Remember I said to put a jack under the lower control arm. That compresses the spring.

After doing that, I removed the nuts on both the upper and lower ball joints then put them back on until the ball joint studs were level with the nuts. Then I rapped the steering knuckle at the upper ball joint with a hammer until it freed up. When it frees up the upper control arm will pop up until the knuckle hits the nut on the ball joint. Then I rapped the steering knuckle at the lower ball joint until it freed up. When it frees up the weight of the steering knuckle caused the knuckle to drop until it hit the nut on the lower ball joint stud. Then you remove the nuts from the ball joints and the knuckle comes off. The jack under the lower control arm keeps tension on the spring and keeps the control arm from going anywhere.
I'm familiar with the process for removing the ball joints but the OP was looking for step-by-step instructions. By leaving out the details that you just posted he would have been stuck at the steering knuckle removal step. It's not a big deal to re-install a spring so I still feel that it is much safer to remove tension on the spring before working on the ball joints. If the jack slips while you are working on removing or installing the ball joints there can be some big problems. You might have a top-quality floor jack but someone else might be using a left-over scissor jack from an 86 Subaru.



Rick B.
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 01:45 AM
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I recently did mine. They were the original b/joints form 1970 and were rusted in there pretty good.

Just knocked the head off the rivet with a angle grinder and then smashed the ball joint out with a hammer.

If I was to do it again I'd use the same method.
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by OzzyTom
I need to do mine also.... but I recall a while back there were some quality control issues with some ball joints on the market...

Which are the ones to get... and the one's to stay clear of?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-question.html
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 01:58 PM
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Hey guys!
It´s done! Thanks for your help! It wasn´t verry difficult.

Thanks, Günther
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