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How do I replace the brake booster?

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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 02:30 PM
  #21  
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A vacuum leak on other cars makes a rock hard pedal.. something else different about vettes I dont know about? that seems to keep happening
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 71coupe454
A vacuum leak on other cars makes a rock hard pedal.. something else different about vettes I dont know about? that seems to keep happening
Nope. Vettes are the same as everything else there.
Soft "squishy" brake pedals are caused by hydraulic problems, not boosters or vacuum leaks.
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 03:57 PM
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What kind of hydraulic problems?
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 04:01 PM
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Usually air in the lines or calipers.
I have seen a brand new master cylinder with seal problems give similar symptoms though.
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 04:08 PM
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Well all my stuff is brand new!
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 73 454
Well all my stuff is brand new!
Are all of bleeders at the top of the calipers?
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 11:52 PM
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yup everything. Master/booster/calipers/pads
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 12:04 AM
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What I mean is when you go to bleed the brakes, are the bleeders on top of the calipers and not on the bottom of them. Its possible <i think this would apply to vettes also> to install the right caliper on the left side of the car and the left caliper on the right side of the car. They will fit ok but the bleeders will then be on the bottom of the caliper and you wont get the air out of it that way. Its a long shot but I thought it worth asking. If thats not the case I would say gravity bleed a can of fluid through it and see what ya got, then replace the master cylinder<again> if needed.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 12:23 AM
  #29  
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If i can remember correctly each caliper box was labeled to the proper wheel it was supposed to go to. So we just made the swap.

As for the master, why would it need replaced again? We bench bled it and then put it on the car.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 12:59 AM
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Well take a glance at the bleeders and double check. And I say replace the M/C again is because if they are bled right, I dont know what else it could be other than defect.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 05:34 AM
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The bleeders on all four were on top and to the inside of the car.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 06:08 AM
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I fought that for a long time once. Was buying rebuilt calipers at the local parts place and they were still sucking air.

O ring calipers are the only way to go.

Also, get one of these and make sure you have all the air out.

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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Did you use their (AA's) setup yourself? Was the pedal pushrod the right length? I know a lot of us (myself included) have run into issues with the pedal rod being too short on replacement boosters. Currently I'm running a booster with a rod that I lengthened with a coupling nut and a bolt with the head sliced off.
I just finished installing mine and noticed the brake pedal sits about an inch and a half lower than the clutch pedal. Does this mean I have to lengthen my pushrod? There was almost no adjustment on this aftermarket booster GD, SOB, MF, POS !!!
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 73 454
yup everything. Master/booster/calipers/pads
Did you replace the flexible rubber brake lines when you replaced all of the the above? they can deteriorate internally and cause a spongy feeling pedal too.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 06:31 PM
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yup! replaced the rubber lines up front and custom bent the hard lines for the rears!
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 73 454
But we can only see 3 out of the 4 bolts! lol
The infamous 4th bolt. You will need extensions, flex connector, electrical tape to hold nut in place in socket when replacing, bandages, and patience.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ja1724
I just finished installing mine and noticed the brake pedal sits about an inch and a half lower than the clutch pedal. Does this mean I have to lengthen my pushrod? There was almost no adjustment on this aftermarket booster GD, SOB, MF, POS !!!
Lengthening the pushrod on the booster can get you into trouble by pushing the piston in the master cyl too far and making the brakes lock up with the pedal at rest. Ask me how I know.

Here's a good link on rebuilding boosters someone sent me recently, check the last page, there's a set dimension for the booster rod shown.

http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...r_assembly.htm
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