Hi all,

I’ve just received my new short block from Carl Hinkson, Blockman in this forum (CNCBLOCKSNORTHEAST). It’s a 400ci with Callies crank and rods and Mahle pistons. The block is very impressive and looks very strong. Carl worked a lot on the SHP block and has rechecked all the measurement.


These pics are from Carl’s store.














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And finally the new block is here in France!!!!




Thanks to Carl for his patience and help

I have a set of new AFR 195 heads on the shelf.


Next time will be decided the type of camshaft. I usually use and like the solid non roller camshaft. I don’t know if I can have more HP with a hydro roller than a solid? I will order a custom grind camshaft …

Stephane

 

I am envious. Go out there and make some horsepower.

 

Stephane

Glad to see your finally got your short block and with all the miles already on that is should be already broke in.

 

Looks good, my friend !

Also nice to see a compatriot on this forum.

Not too many of us here

Member since 2001, but you don't post very often...

Keep posting pictures

 

Carl is a GREAT GUY and big contributor on Speed Talk forum for those of you who like the price advantages of Chinese knock-offs of American speed parts, you may want to read his research on the Chinese SHP knock-off bolcks appearing in a Ebay add near you. Looks like that motor will be a RUNNER with those heads.

 

Well, some updates

I succeeded to put my short block in my living room (my garage is too cold) and yes, my wife is the coolest of the world!

I put a 10% high volume Melling pump and Hamburger pan. I made a pickup with the Melling and the Hamburger pickups. I have let the recommended space between the pan and the pickup.




The engine stand is homemade with a Caddy!!!



I put an isky Z35 solid cam. I have made some simulation, and found it was nice for me. A good hydro roller would give me more torque along the curve, but as I have a TKO and a 4.1, I do not need as much torque.

The cam was factory advanced by 4°, but I didn’t succeed to have the cam straight with moving the timing gear. While retarding the crank gear, I found 4° retarded, too much for me. So I let the cam advanced by 4°.



I checked my AFR 195 eliminator heads, they were not warped, the springs were good enough for the cam and the installation height was ok. I removed the inner spring for the break in.



After some cleaning



I put a super Victor and 1.6 roller rockers



The heads were aligned with the manifold






Now the block is in the garage and my wife is happy!!




Next update will be the installation.

Stephane

 

Looks great!!

 

I don't understand the logic behind using a solid flat tappet cam when the block is setup for a roller? If the reason is to spin the motor to well over 7000 RPM, AFR 210's and a solid roller would be a much better choice. Other than those two questions looks like a solid build with really nice parts.

 

I already have the 195, but my budget has exploded with a lot of new parts and tools. The best combo that I found for the price and with the 195 is this flat solid. A 210 with solid roller would be nice for me if...

And I don't want to put factory hydro roller in my block!

 

Looks very nice.

 

If you don't mind me asking, What did the short block cost? Pm me if you like. Looks nice!!! Don't worry about the Solid FT, they work great. Any idea on RPM range? 6500 limit, 7k?

Thanks

 

I think the max HP will be at 6500

 

Blockman? I'm going to be using one of the Dart blocks. It will be a 350 mains 3.875 X 4.00 for 415 ci As I understand it the SHP is good for 3.750 stroke. IYO is the shp block good enough for an h-roller 415 or should I just get the little- M

 

A factory style solid roller is not much price difference over a solid flat tappet. Just can't justify in my mind why anyone with this quality of build and the roller block would even consider a solid flat tappet cam especially with 1.6 rockers putting additional load at the lobe, lifter interface, the high ZDDP requirements and documented failures. To each their own though. Engine should be a beast.

 

There are guys up around 700 horse with these blocks as we did a Porcharger engine last summer that made just over 700 horse and made 638 torque at 3800 RPM and it seem to be doing good.

The guy in this link has a twin tuboed 400 and we used an SHP block with his build and he figures he is in the 800 to 850 range with his build. This car runs a 2.73 rear gear

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjDyK...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V55WOYTIbGs

The Callies rods would be a good choice for clearance issues as the block may have to opened up a little on the pan rail and the inside of the cylinders. I would step up to a stud kit on the mains as 90% of the guys we machine blocks for go to ARP stud kits in the mains.

The Little-M is clearanced for a 3.875 stroke and everything should clear fine.

 

I have been wondering where you have been and how you are doing with your project.

Just asking but why is the indacator in the exhast lobe lifter bore.I see you did stick to your guns on the flat tappet cam and I hope it was ground on a P-55 cam core.

Also dump the Fram filter and go to a NAPA 1061 and plug the bypass so all the oil is filter before getting to the bearings.

All in all your project is coming along well.

Best regards Carl

 

I will send you a PM

 

Hi Carl,

I have checked all the lifts on both lobes every 2°. This picture is one of my album.

I don't know for the Isky core, but I hope that Isky grinds good cams!

Fram is a well known company, why don't you like this filter? I have a new k&n HP-3002 filter on the shelf, is it ok for you? This k&n filter has no bypass relief valve, is it ok with a no bypass adapter?

I've made a prelub test, I have 70 PSI oil pressure.

Stephane

 

Stephane

I have seen alot of issuses with Fram filters do a search, Take one apart as you will find cardbaord and a peice of bent steel used for a spring then cut a 1061 NAPA gold filter open nite a day differance between the two.

Make sure you plug the filter bypass.

Isky is a very good cam company

Carl

 

ok, It's a long time without news, but I had a lot of works in my house and some problems with the corvette, so...

I wanted to pass to an hydro clutch, I bought a Keisler top end kit, but the rod was too short for a corvette, with no help from Keisler , I found a solution. I also have had a lot of problem to find a solution for the line but now the system is near to be complet.

I have put a plug in the bypass and a KNN filter.

I had get out the old motor, very easy when you have enough room on the driver side



I checked the belhousing alignement, no need for some offset dowel pins, very strange, with the old motor I used some with offset (0.007")

The clutch is a Centerforce DFX



The new motor in



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I waited a month the return of a friend from vacation (yes we have a lot of vacation here ) and with his help, finaly the engine started

It run great, break in during 20', no overheating... It likes timing advance...

I just have had a problem with my Hamburger oil pan which is not a good quality part : a lot of leak... I don't recommend this oil pan

After the break in , I put the inner springs in my AFR and I have removed the whole transmission because of a oil pan bolt that I have to remove for the leak . I have seen a new problem with the pilot bearing which is worn. I have checked again the belhousing aligment, but it's ok...?????

So now, I have to see what is wrong with my Ford TKO (YES THE PROBLEM IS IT'S A FORD TRANSMISSION ) and to finalise my hydro clutch : I want to add a return spring to my fork because the slave cylinder has a small internal spring and it always move the TO bearing agains the clutch fingers...