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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 01:33 PM
  #21  
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I've got a couple of Hamburger pans around my shop, they all have leak problems too. Here is the company I use:
http://cantonracingproducts.com/
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 11:06 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by sblezard
ok, It's a long time without news, but I had a lot of works in my house and some problems with the corvette, so...

I wanted to pass to an hydro clutch, I bought a Keisler top end kit, but the rod was too short for a corvette, with no help from Keisler , I found a solution. I also have had a lot of problem to find a solution for the line but now the system is near to be complet.

I have put a plug in the bypass and a KNN filter.

I had get out the old motor, very easy when you have enough room on the driver side



I checked the belhousing alignement, no need for some offset dowel pins, very strange, with the old motor I used some with offset (0.007")

The clutch is a Centerforce DFX



The new motor in



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I waited a month the return of a friend from vacation (yes we have a lot of vacation here ) and with his help, finaly the engine started

It run great, break in during 20', no overheating... It likes timing advance...

I just have had a problem with my Hamburger oil pan which is not a good quality part : a lot of leak... I don't recommend this oil pan

After the break in , I put the inner springs in my AFR and I have removed the whole transmission because of a oil pan bolt that I have to remove for the leak . I have seen a new problem with the pilot bearing which is worn. I have checked again the belhousing aligment, but it's ok...?????

So now, I have to see what is wrong with my Ford TKO (YES THE PROBLEM IS IT'S A FORD TRANSMISSION ) and to finalise my hydro clutch : I want to add a return spring to my fork because the slave cylinder has a small internal spring and it always move the TO bearing agains the clutch fingers...

We have used alot of the Steffs oil pan with good results, Never seen one of those pans your using.

Glad to see your making progress with your project.
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 02:53 AM
  #23  
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From: Bordeaux
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This oil pan looked good on the paper, but in fact it's a piece of ****

Look, there are only half the bolts... and even with a one piece gasget it leaks...






I lost a lot of time in my project for a lot of small problems, but now it's almost finish
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 11:59 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by sblezard
So now, I have to see what is wrong with my Ford TKO (YES THE PROBLEM IS IT'S A FORD TRANSMISSION ) and to finalise my hydro clutch : I want to add a return spring to my fork because the slave cylinder has a small internal spring and it always move the TO bearing agains the clutch fingers...


Actually, all TKO's (Ford and GM versions) are the same. The only difference between Ford and GM is the bolt pattern on the front of the main case for the bell housing and the Ford version uses an input shaft that is 7.250" long whereas the GM version input is only 6.5". You can get a Ford short input shaft that is the same length as the GM but you will still find that the tip of the input shaft (the part that goes into the pilot bearing) is larger on a Ford than a GM.
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 09:38 PM
  #25  
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I have one of those pans with proper mods to turn right/left. It's painted black, $90 to anyone who wants it, driver's side dipstick tube, NO WARRANTY against leaks.

Hamburgers Oil Pans is now owned by the Chinese at Transdapt and the quality level has gone down a little further if that is possible (I used to buy A series MOPAR engine parts from old Ed before he found "Chevreligon".) Last I knew old Ed had a boatload fo parts for the Pontiac G8, I wonder how that is going?
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 01:03 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by sblezard
This oil pan looked good on the paper, but in fact it's a piece of ****

Look, there are only half the bolts... and even with a one piece gasget it leaks...

:
This might or might not be you case, but aftermarket big CI small blocks do not use chevy small block oil pans. You have to buy their pan.

Chevy small blocks taper in block and pan width to the front cylinders. Your as shown pan is notched out for stroker cranks, but maybe not for a as cast wide rail straight block like the motowns and Darts

My 8 quart road racing Motown has all the bolts holes and is 8 1/2 inches deep. I have a 7 qt Morroso RR on my other motor also 8 1/2 deep that also has the PITA to set up crank scrapers. They don't have the side kickouts. Just look at a Vette from the underside and still the lowest point is your hooker S/C headers not the deep pan

Last edited by gkull; Sep 8, 2010 at 01:10 AM.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 02:35 AM
  #27  
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From: Bordeaux
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Originally Posted by rj8806
Actually, all TKO's (Ford and GM versions) are the same. The only difference between Ford and GM is the bolt pattern on the front of the main case for the bell housing and the Ford version uses an input shaft that is 7.250" long whereas the GM version input is only 6.5". You can get a Ford short input shaft that is the same length as the GM but you will still find that the tip of the input shaft (the part that goes into the pilot bearing) is larger on a Ford than a GM.
Yes you are right, I bought this TKO in 2003 (when the GM version didn't exist) and I have used it with success behind my old engine. I use a special belhousing and pilot bearing. But now I have an aligment problem, I have to found it.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 02:55 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by gkull
This might or might not be you case, but aftermarket big CI small blocks do not use chevy small block oil pans. You have to buy their pan.

Chevy small blocks taper in block and pan width to the front cylinders. Your as shown pan is notched out for stroker cranks, but maybe not for a as cast wide rail straight block like the motowns and Darts

My 8 quart road racing Motown has all the bolts holes and is 8 1/2 inches deep. I have a 7 qt Morroso RR on my other motor also 8 1/2 deep that also has the PITA to set up crank scrapers. They don't have the side kickouts. Just look at a Vette from the underside and still the lowest point is your hooker S/C headers not the deep pan

When you see the Dart doc, they say you can use 1981 - 1985 stock style oil pan.

Ok i understand why there is half the bolts!
The leaks come from the front and rear of the pan.

This is a 7" deep oil pan, no problem with that.

Last edited by sblezard; Sep 8, 2010 at 03:49 AM.
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