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Has anyone used the Phoenix brak bleeding system? I've got a 74 coupe and from reading the endless threads on the subject there has to be a better way bleed the brakes. I've been fighting with mine for a while. New master cylinder, new calipers, new soft lines and a lot brake fluid and I still have a soft peddal. replaced the propotioning valve but it was one of those aluminum reproductions and was basically crap so I took the original and cleaned it up and put it back on, it seemed to make an improvement but the peddal still feels spungy and travels too far.
Did you bench bleed the MC? Helps a lot. Also, follow the correct bleed sequence. This link tells about it. Also, buy the Motive bleeder and a 6" C-clamp to hold it on the MC. The chains that come with it don't work well.
I have not used the Phoenix but the Motive is the absolute best bleeder I have found to date. It pushes the fluid through the system as opposed to pulling it like the systems that use a vacuum pump at the caliper end. The big benefit is no air is drawn into the system from around the bleeders when you crack them open to bleed.
The Motive, depending on which accessories you get with it, will run you somewhere from 50 to 80 dollars. Several of the supporting vendors on this forum sell them. Worth every penny.
Did you bench bleed the MC? Helps a lot. Also, follow the correct bleed sequence. This link tells about it. Also, buy the Motive bleeder and a 6" C-clamp to hold it on the MC. The chains that come with it don't work well.
I actually have a motive. Thats why I'm baffled on this. I bench bled the master cylinder before installing and couple more time along my journey to double and triple check. Did the text book sequence on the caliper order again and again, with the motive you can keep the pressure constant for a long time to take out any doubt but still soft peddle. The brakes work and I have driven the car a to few shows but I don't eel comfortable until I get this right. I'm looking for a new brass prop valve just in case the gremlin is in there. Other than that the only component that hasn't been replaced is the booster. The car was supposed to be something to tinker with and I got it for very little money because most everything had been hacked together or modified by Bubba. Its mostly done now but this brake this has me.
How is the pedal travel with no boost? How close to the floor does the pedal come with boost? There is nothing in the valve to cause a soft pedal or poor bleed unless one of the ports is plugged. If you get fluid to each wheel, then it's OK.
How is the pedal travel with no boost? How close to the floor does the pedal come with boost? There is nothing in the valve to cause a soft pedal or poor bleed unless one of the ports is plugged. If you get fluid to each wheel, then it's OK.
Gary
It seems to be the same with or withou boost (engin off- no boost, running - vacume boost etc) the peddal travels close to the floor unless I pump it then there's more peddal but not enough and it doesn't stay.
It seems to be the same with or withou boost (engin off- no boost, running - vacume boost etc) the peddal travels close to the floor unless I pump it then there's more peddal but not enough and it doesn't stay.
Make sure you have the correct MC. 1 1/8" bore. Also check to see that the piston is correct for your push rod length. Take a quick measurement of how far the push rod sticks out past the MC mounting surface on the booster vs the MC piston push rod pocket. They should be very close to the same.
This article says to bleed the right front than the left front.
The 74 Service manual and the 66-82 Shop manual say left front than right front.
Can you explain the contradiction?
This article says to bleed the right front than the left front.
The 74 Service manual and the 66-82 Shop manual say left front than right front.
Can you explain the contradiction?
I've never found it to make much difference. The reason I prefer bleeding the closest to the master is to get the air out before it goes to the furthest getting stuck in threads and unions along the way.
I've never found it to make much difference. The reason I prefer bleeding the closest to the master is to get the air out before it goes to the furthest getting stuck in threads and unions along the way.
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Safire74, to see if the booster is working - with the engine off, press and release the brake pedal 3 times, then hold light pressure on the brake pedal and start the engine - the brake pedal should go down a little. If it does that the booster should be good.
Total pedal travel from full up to down is 1 and 3/4 of a inch and my 74 has only 1 and a half inches under the pedal when fully depressed. It took me forever to get used to such a low pedal.