I just received some Adtech Epoxy Resin from Ecklers and the mix ratio says "100R/29H PBW". I assume that would be 3 resin to 1 hardener ratio, is that correct? Since it's Saturday, both Ecklers and Adtech are closed.

 

That sounds correct...but it has been a long time since I used ADTECH...which is some good stuff. But to be on the safe side...I would call Adtech directly. IT may be dealing with WEIGHT and not VOLUME. Such as 100 grams of resin to 29 grams of hardener. Which can be a big difference...
"DUB"

 

I guess I'll just hold off until after I call Adtech unless if anybody else knows. Thanks for the reply!

 

I spoke to Adtech and you are correct, the mix ratio is measured in grams as you said. I also spoke to Ecklers and they said that the can of hardner is the correct amount for the quart of resin, so they could just be mixed together if the whole amount was to be used. Looks like I need to find a grams scale, or I could chance it and divide the 2 containers into quarters, since I don't want to use it all at once.

 

ANY paint and body shop will have a scale that can weigh out your portions for you...in seperate containers. I know I would do this for you at no cost and even let you watch me doing so. I ...personally would not trust...the guessing method. Keeping the mixture to PROPER standards makes sure that you are getting a quality repair in the end....becasue the epoxy will cure as designed.

If you seperate these parts into containers....make sure that you scrape ALL of the product out so the mix is correct...especially when dealing with small amounts. If you were dealing with gallons...then a few grams would not be that big of a deal...but smaller amounts can be an issue...from experience..for what it's worth.
"DUB"

 

I ordered a scale. Better safe than sorry Thanks for the advice! I just used the Norton Panel Adhesive for my left fender and quarter that had broken bondings. It worked out really nice I'm going to lay some mat on the back of some cracks I have while the body is off the frame and I can get to it easily. Should I also mat the top or just fill the top with filler? I have Evercoat Fibertech. Some of the cracks are uneven and need to be leveled before I mat them (front edge of fender and front corners of hood surround). Thanks again for the help!

 

IF you are laminating from the backside...make sure that you get it clean first...DUH! DO NOT GRIND IN or OFF UNDERCOATING. Remove it first BEFORE grinding...if you run into an area with it. If the crack(s) are visable...from the backside...grind them and taper the area away from the crack. I grind the crack to the point of ALMOST going through the panel...if not slightly increasing the width of the crack, and then taper it back. This is so, when the laminating is completed. I can grind from the front side and quickly get to my fresh laminated area and then apply a filler. NO need to laminate on the outside...unless you can not get it from the backside.

When you are tapering the cracks ...I usually apply three layers on the backside. The first section of matt will be able to fit inside the taper area, then the next patch is slightly larger and so on. This is so you do not have a huge lump in the ground area...if you care about that sorta thing. I, personally like that my third layer to be of the fiberglass cloth....instead of the matt. IT has greater linear strength...and also provides a smooth look when completed. But if you choose to use only matt...that is fine.

When you are grinding the crack away be aware...SMC usually does not crack straight through a panel...it will crack on an angle. So where it is on the top side...the underside may be an inch away. This is due to the material and how it seperates. SO when grinding, use your grinder at a slow but constant speed..but yet so it will not stall out on you.....NO full throttle grinding. Because you want to carefully watch for flakes/chunks in the fatigued SMC coming off. If you keep getting flakes/chunks...and you will see what I mean..when grinding...keep grinding until the SMC powders away and you have no more flaking. When you get to this stage in the grinding process...you are done...because to have gotten back to solid body material. It is ready for laminating. OH...DO NOT be surprised that a small area may get really big due to the fatigued SMC. Alot if it depends in the impact area. Example: If you hit your panel with a ball-peen hammer....the fatigued area may be the size of a cantalope when prepped for repair....if not larger.

Fibertech is good to use ...but I personally use Vette Panel Adhesive/Filler from Fiberglass/Evercoat. If you use the fibertech...make sure you MASH out all of the air while mixing so you DO NOT get air bubbles. The same holds true to your laminating and using Vette Panel Adhesive/Filler Remember...AIR BUBBLES ARE YOUR ENEMY!!!

TRY to make sure that your hardener ratios that you use in your filler are as constant as possible. DO NOT let one batch be darker ..due to more hardener...and the next batch is lighter. Being constant is PARAMOUNT.\
"DUB"

 

I picked up a scale off of Amazon for $15 and it worked out real nice. I mixed 50 grams of resin to 14 grams of hardner at a time and had no problems. Thanks! I'm almost finished with the back side of the repairs. I'll take care of the outside of the repairs after I get the body back on the chassis, which should be in about 2 weeks. Hopefully in the spring I can get it painted. I want to do a C3 Grand Sport clone, the same paint scheme as the 1996 GS, admiral blue with artic white stripes and laser red hash marks on both fenders. Also, I want to use Glasurit paint. I'm probably looking at about $2000 just for paint materials.