Drilling the shim holes ?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Drilling the shim holes ?
OK... I'm about to drill some holes in a very nice 1968 frame tomorrow (gulp) in order to be able to use the "new style" trailing arm shims.
1. What size bit was that again?
2. Anyone got a pic of a 1972 and up set of holes?
Thanks!
-W
1. What size bit was that again?
2. Anyone got a pic of a 1972 and up set of holes?
Thanks!
-W
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 39
From: Fremont CA
I feel your pain, this photo shoot made me late to work, I hope it helps you out, dimensions are about 4" above frame rail bottom edge and 1" infrom traiing arm pocket edge. I would double check with an actual shim, hole size is around 1/8" in diameter.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
is the body on or not? i used a 1/4" bit. be sure to drill the hole low enough on the kick-up so that when the trailing arm hangs down(as if the car was jacked up), the ta doesn't interfer with the cotter pin. the reason i ask about the body is that with the body on, it's impossible to drill the holes, unless you do it in two steps. if the body is on, use a regular length bit and a right angle drill for the hole in the outer side of the frame. then insert a 6" bit (lowes has them) into the hole and then tighten the bit in the drill and drill the inward frame member. give it a good shot of paint.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Thanks very much for the replies. I used a 1/4 bit because that's the only 18" bit I owned.
With the 18" long bit I could pretty much nail it straight through - perhaps a *little* outboard of the stock location to avoid the dog-leg but still on the money.
I'll use a stainless washer on each end of the cotter pin to pretty up the install.
I tested it and I can put the pin through with the shims hanging down "in the pocket" - works for me.
THANKS AGAIN!
-W
With the 18" long bit I could pretty much nail it straight through - perhaps a *little* outboard of the stock location to avoid the dog-leg but still on the money.
I'll use a stainless washer on each end of the cotter pin to pretty up the install.
I tested it and I can put the pin through with the shims hanging down "in the pocket" - works for me.
THANKS AGAIN!
-W
