anyone using a remote starter solenoid?
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Another solenoid will only add resistance - from the contacts - and reduce voltage more.
All u have to do is draw the electrical schematic to see adding more solenoids in series only adds more contacts and drops more voltage.
To say u can bypass the original solenoid with one on the fender is totally false!
The original solenoid is still there and is the one that kicks out the little Bendix gear that turns the flywheel. Thats the fact and i can't account for how many claim they are bypassing the original solenoid.
If u what to reduce heat soak then you need to install a functional heat sheild. You can look in my signature link http://members.cardomain.com/cardo0 at the JC Whitney sheild i installed for $15 and it has proved itself in >100*F temps in city traffic.
Get the truth out,
cardo0
All u have to do is draw the electrical schematic to see adding more solenoids in series only adds more contacts and drops more voltage.
To say u can bypass the original solenoid with one on the fender is totally false! The original solenoid is still there and is the one that kicks out the little Bendix gear that turns the flywheel. Thats the fact and i can't account for how many claim they are bypassing the original solenoid.If u what to reduce heat soak then you need to install a functional heat sheild. You can look in my signature link http://members.cardomain.com/cardo0 at the JC Whitney sheild i installed for $15 and it has proved itself in >100*F temps in city traffic.
Get the truth out,
cardo0
I just use the original starter with a high quality solenoid on it.
To do the conversion properly, a solid copper or brass bar is usually connected from the starter batt term to the s term and when the solenoid, relay, contactor is energized, both get full battery voltage.
BTW, Ford had a recall on their later mini starters for a bad s connection, even though they used the large solenoid so nothing is foolproof.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Cardo you are incorrect !
When installing a remote solenoid properly,
you no longer use the factory solenid to switch the 12Volts,
the remote solenoid supplies power to the starter and the solenoid bendix,
at the same time via a small jumper.
When you are not starting there is 0 power going to the starter.
It makes things safer, and no one can jump start (steal) your car,
with jumpers at the starter. You are replacing the OEM. solinoid switch not adding in series.
When you use a remote you attach your starter cable "Directly to Motor connection",
and add a small jumper to the "S" terminal."
you are bypassing the switch in the OEM. solenoid,
and still using the bendix to kick the starter into the flywheel. 69VETT
When installing a remote solenoid properly,
you no longer use the factory solenid to switch the 12Volts,
the remote solenoid supplies power to the starter and the solenoid bendix,
at the same time via a small jumper.
When you are not starting there is 0 power going to the starter.
It makes things safer, and no one can jump start (steal) your car,
with jumpers at the starter. You are replacing the OEM. solinoid switch not adding in series.
When you use a remote you attach your starter cable "Directly to Motor connection",
and add a small jumper to the "S" terminal."
you are bypassing the switch in the OEM. solenoid,
and still using the bendix to kick the starter into the flywheel. 69VETT
Last edited by 69Vett; Oct 11, 2009 at 10:30 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Apache Junction Arizona
Heat shield, header wrap etc. did not work for me. I believe the starter was acting as a heat sink so no amount of shielding would work.
Heat shields/wraps and the mini starters are a waste of money unless you need high torque starting - IMO of course.
Heat shields/wraps and the mini starters are a waste of money unless you need high torque starting - IMO of course.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,682
Likes: 3
From: League City TX
Cardo you are incorrect !
When installing a remote solenoid properly,
you no longer use the factory solenid to switch the 12Volts,
the remote solenoid supplies power to the starter and the solenoid bendix,
at the same time via a small jumper.
When you are not starting there is 0 power going to the starter.
It makes things safer, and no one can jump start (steal) your car,
with jumpers at the starter. You are replacing the OEM. solinoid switch not adding in series.
When you use a remote you attach your starter cable "Directly to Motor connection",
and add a small jumper to the "S" terminal."
you are bypassing the switch in the OEM. solenoid,
and still using the bendix to kick the starter into the flywheel. 69VETT
When installing a remote solenoid properly,
you no longer use the factory solenid to switch the 12Volts,
the remote solenoid supplies power to the starter and the solenoid bendix,
at the same time via a small jumper.
When you are not starting there is 0 power going to the starter.
It makes things safer, and no one can jump start (steal) your car,
with jumpers at the starter. You are replacing the OEM. solinoid switch not adding in series.
When you use a remote you attach your starter cable "Directly to Motor connection",
and add a small jumper to the "S" terminal."
you are bypassing the switch in the OEM. solenoid,
and still using the bendix to kick the starter into the flywheel. 69VETT
The large cable to the starter still connects in the same place as it always has.
The original solenoid still has to do the same job it always has, engaging the starter drive gear and making the internal electrical connection.
What is improved is that the S terminal gets full battery voltage, which improves the operation of the solenoid.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,910
Likes: 962
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
I disagree. Some of us don't like carrying around extra weight if we don't need to. In a sports car, weight is the enemy.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Thats not correct. Take a look at the instructions for the kit that the OP asked about. http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../sum-g1750.pdf
The large cable to the starter still connects in the same place as it always has.
The original solenoid still has to do the same job it always has, engaging the starter drive gear and making the internal electrical connection.
What is improved is that the S terminal gets full battery voltage, which improves the operation of the solenoid.
The large cable to the starter still connects in the same place as it always has.
The original solenoid still has to do the same job it always has, engaging the starter drive gear and making the internal electrical connection.
What is improved is that the S terminal gets full battery voltage, which improves the operation of the solenoid.
Thx for your efforts.Cardo you are incorrect !
When installing a remote solenoid properly,
you no longer use the factory solenid to switch the 12Volts,
the remote solenoid supplies power to the starter and the solenoid bendix,
at the same time via a small jumper.
When you are not starting there is 0 power going to the starter.
It makes things safer, and no one can jump start (steal) your car,
with jumpers at the starter. You are replacing the OEM. solinoid switch not adding in series.
When you use a remote you attach your starter cable "Directly to Motor connection",
and add a small jumper to the "S" terminal."
you are bypassing the switch in the OEM. solenoid,
and still using the bendix to kick the starter into the flywheel. 69VETT
When installing a remote solenoid properly,
you no longer use the factory solenid to switch the 12Volts,
the remote solenoid supplies power to the starter and the solenoid bendix,
at the same time via a small jumper.
When you are not starting there is 0 power going to the starter.
It makes things safer, and no one can jump start (steal) your car,
with jumpers at the starter. You are replacing the OEM. solinoid switch not adding in series.
When you use a remote you attach your starter cable "Directly to Motor connection",
and add a small jumper to the "S" terminal."
you are bypassing the switch in the OEM. solenoid,
and still using the bendix to kick the starter into the flywheel. 69VETT
And for those using a "wrap" my opinoin is once the starter heats up a "wrap" only serves to hold heat in the starter/solenoid.
To reduce heat soak we need a shield with an "air gap" between the starter to allow air flow and convection heat transfer away from starter.cardo0
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Remote starter soleniod in a 81 vette
I am new to this post and would to know if anybody could help me on wiring a Ford soleniod in a 81 Vette.I am having trouble starting my car.It seems the car starts fine for aprox. the first 15 starts then it just won't start.Everything else works fine it's just the starter.I hooked up a button under the dash to start when this happens but would like it to start with the key all the time.Hope someone could help.Thank you.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
To those who claim that the Ford starter solves heat soak problems. How, exactly, is that possible? The solenoid is still going to get warm, and moving to a second solenoid doesn't change the heat that's going into the solenoid on the starter.
To fix a heat-soak problem - stop buying cheap starters, and get rid of your headers. If no headers is not acceptable get a good, quality starter (especially a quality - again, not Chinese - mini-starter) because it will reduce the number of times you have to replace the starter - but if you're looking for reliability, drive down to the Toyota dealership and trade your Corvette for a nice, pink Camry.
The point of a Ford solenoid is to remove the power from the main lug on the starter in all situations except when the starter is being engaged. That second solenoid reduces a large fire hazard. A side benefit is that the wires that power your car will have less resistance (voltage drop) because heat is the enemy of electrical flow.
To fix a heat-soak problem - stop buying cheap starters, and get rid of your headers. If no headers is not acceptable get a good, quality starter (especially a quality - again, not Chinese - mini-starter) because it will reduce the number of times you have to replace the starter - but if you're looking for reliability, drive down to the Toyota dealership and trade your Corvette for a nice, pink Camry.
The point of a Ford solenoid is to remove the power from the main lug on the starter in all situations except when the starter is being engaged. That second solenoid reduces a large fire hazard. A side benefit is that the wires that power your car will have less resistance (voltage drop) because heat is the enemy of electrical flow.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
I am new to this post and would to know if anybody could help me on wiring a Ford soleniod in a 81 Vette.I am having trouble starting my car.It seems the car starts fine for aprox. the first 15 starts then it just won't start.Everything else works fine it's just the starter.I hooked up a button under the dash to start when this happens but would like it to start with the key all the time.Hope someone could help.Thank you.
These type of starters you can wire either way.
GM wired theirs this way as well.
Here is a GM wiring diagram.
Nothing substitutes for cleaning all the battery cable connections and other wire connections to raw metal and using something like antisieze or dielectric to keep them from oxidizing prematurely.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Apache Junction Arizona
To those who claim that the Ford starter solves heat soak problems. How, exactly, is that possible? The solenoid is still going to get warm, and moving to a second solenoid doesn't change the heat that's going into the solenoid on the starter.
To fix a heat-soak problem - stop buying cheap starters, and get rid of your headers. If no headers is not acceptable get a good, quality starter (especially a quality - again, not Chinese - mini-starter) because it will reduce the number of times you have to replace the starter - but if you're looking for reliability, drive down to the Toyota dealership and trade your Corvette for a nice, pink Camry.
The point of a Ford solenoid is to remove the power from the main lug on the starter in all situations except when the starter is being engaged. That second solenoid reduces a large fire hazard. A side benefit is that the wires that power your car will have less resistance (voltage drop) because heat is the enemy of electrical flow.
To fix a heat-soak problem - stop buying cheap starters, and get rid of your headers. If no headers is not acceptable get a good, quality starter (especially a quality - again, not Chinese - mini-starter) because it will reduce the number of times you have to replace the starter - but if you're looking for reliability, drive down to the Toyota dealership and trade your Corvette for a nice, pink Camry.
The point of a Ford solenoid is to remove the power from the main lug on the starter in all situations except when the starter is being engaged. That second solenoid reduces a large fire hazard. A side benefit is that the wires that power your car will have less resistance (voltage drop) because heat is the enemy of electrical flow.
I had this problem before headers and with a new OEM starter, same story as many others.
You obviously do not know what you are talking about, so why not troll somewhere else with your pink made in another country mini starter! Someone posts for help and advice, not meaningless BS! Why are you even on the forums?
Tagg99: The FORD - made in the USA part works great! Has continued to work for me for the last 4+ years with absolutely no problems even with Hooker side pipes. I will look for my how-to information and send you a PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
it works, there's a ton of info on it on here and other chevy sites, also gives the starter a full 12 volts , chevy even installed them from the factory for a few years under a chevy part number, AC delco F903,U939, etc.etc.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...a2IwU64Zzw2O3Q
hope this helps
btw they still put them on chevy diesel trucks
serious old school , but back in the day you could install this
GM#1958679
inside your chevy starter solenoid...also, didnt work as well
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...a2IwU64Zzw2O3Q
hope this helps
btw they still put them on chevy diesel trucks
serious old school , but back in the day you could install this
GM#1958679
inside your chevy starter solenoid...also, didnt work as well
Last edited by oldalaskaman; Oct 21, 2012 at 12:15 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 42
From: Austin Texas
I use one. I took the factory positive cable and pulled it straight up and mounted it behind the passenger side head. Then ran another cable down to the starter.
If nothing else, this makes it very easy to connect a remote starter button. I like it and bought it from Mad Electrical http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml
My starter only has one big cable connecting to it.
If nothing else, this makes it very easy to connect a remote starter button. I like it and bought it from Mad Electrical http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml
My starter only has one big cable connecting to it.
Last edited by johnt365; Oct 21, 2012 at 01:11 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 14
From: Mobile Alabama
To those who claim that the Ford starter solves heat soak problems. How, exactly, is that possible? The solenoid is still going to get warm, and moving to a second solenoid doesn't change the heat that's going into the solenoid on the starter.
To fix a heat-soak problem - stop buying cheap starters, and get rid of your headers. If no headers is not acceptable get a good, quality starter (especially a quality - again, not Chinese - mini-starter) because it will reduce the number of times you have to replace the starter - but if you're looking for reliability, drive down to the Toyota dealership and trade your Corvette for a nice, pink Camry.
The point of a Ford solenoid is to remove the power from the main lug on the starter in all situations except when the starter is being engaged. That second solenoid reduces a large fire hazard. A side benefit is that the wires that power your car will have less resistance (voltage drop) because heat is the enemy of electrical flow.
To fix a heat-soak problem - stop buying cheap starters, and get rid of your headers. If no headers is not acceptable get a good, quality starter (especially a quality - again, not Chinese - mini-starter) because it will reduce the number of times you have to replace the starter - but if you're looking for reliability, drive down to the Toyota dealership and trade your Corvette for a nice, pink Camry.
The point of a Ford solenoid is to remove the power from the main lug on the starter in all situations except when the starter is being engaged. That second solenoid reduces a large fire hazard. A side benefit is that the wires that power your car will have less resistance (voltage drop) because heat is the enemy of electrical flow.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,977
Likes: 38
From: Massachusetts , USA,
Wow, your funny and ridiculous! A Toyota, really?!
I had this problem before headers and with a new OEM starter, same story as many others.
You obviously do not know what you are talking about, so why not troll somewhere else with your pink made in another country mini starter! Someone posts for help and advice, not meaningless BS! Why are you even on the forums?
Tagg99: The FORD - made in the USA part works great! Has continued to work for me for the last 4+ years with absolutely no problems even with Hooker side pipes. I will look for my how-to information and send you a PM.
I had this problem before headers and with a new OEM starter, same story as many others.
You obviously do not know what you are talking about, so why not troll somewhere else with your pink made in another country mini starter! Someone posts for help and advice, not meaningless BS! Why are you even on the forums?
Tagg99: The FORD - made in the USA part works great! Has continued to work for me for the last 4+ years with absolutely no problems even with Hooker side pipes. I will look for my how-to information and send you a PM.Installed ford solinoid on firewall my 66 big block .... many years ago heat soak problem totally resolved .. did this many years ago "works for me " & my 66 is happy ..kit availble from summit & comes with wiring diagram .................
Last edited by StrayDog; Oct 21, 2012 at 01:19 PM. Reason: bad spellin
